We are running into a problem where the machine is overheating the water in the exhaust heat exchanger and causing a steam lock in the line. It doesn't matter where we set the temperature, it will run ok for a bit, and then it will just overheat. We tried changing the temp selector dial, the temp sender in the heat exhcanger, and using a different temp control board from another truck that doesn't have this issue. The diverter is operating as it should, opening and closing when 'told'. The light on the back side of the wiring box indicates that even though the temp is high, it is still telling the diverter to open and make more heat. We are wondering if it is a water flow issue. We get pressure, but have no good way to measure flow volume. We set the machine to full speed, turned on the pressure pump, and set it to 500psi, then using short hose with just a ball valve that we normally use for letting the heat off at the end of a job, we filled a 5 gallon bucket in 1minute and 45 seconds. That works to about 3 gallons a minute. We don't use in line solution, just clean water, but that is what the diagrams call that is solution output.
Titan 575 solution overheat
- Thread starter PioneerTech
- Start date
Sorry, yes. Short answer: try checking that the main harness plug into the control box is pushed in as tight as possible and that all the indiviual wires going into it are pushed into that plug as far as they should be.
I ended up talking to tech support at Hydramaster. They had me change a diode that is in the wiring harness that could fail and cause the issue. It in the upper left of the picture of the schematic. Follow the wires from the diverter solenoid and you'll find it.
A friend that is much smarter than me explained it this way "Basically, when the controller shuts the solenoid off, the coil inside the solenoid wants to keep the current flowing (as if the current had inertia). In order to do that, the coil will function very briefly as a voltage source. Moreover, the voltage it produces will be of opposite polarity than what the controller normally supplies to the solenoid. The diode provides a path for that reverse current, preventing the controller from seeing a reverse-polarity voltage spike when the solenoid turns off."
They also had me pull the harness plug from where the main harness goes into the back of the control box and make sure all the pins are seated correctly. After running it for a couple weeks, it did overheat again, but pushing that harness plug back together stops that. So I would start with the harness and then the diode if it still is an issue. This is the diode number: 1N5408, if you need it, they're cheaply available many online places.
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