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Steamway Galaxy

Johnmark

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Johnmark Abrahams
Hi Guys,

I just wanted to introduce myself as a new member of TMF, as well as to the carpet cleaning industry. I am located in Vancouver, British Columbia roughly 2.5hrs north of Seattle. I started a residential/commercial exterior maintenance company at 17 and after eight successful years I purchased my first carpet cleaning truck mount. I had no intention of getting into the industry but a local owner/operator offered me the deal as he was going into rehab. I have to admit when I purchased the Kohler/Steamway Galaxy 4100 I didn't know what I was getting into, surprisingly enough when the previous owner showed me the TM he only fired up the Kohler engine as the burner was down, and I thought the unit was running well. The first two months of owning the machine have taken a lot to get it going and still a few more issues but hoping to have it all up and running to operate by the new year. I purchased the GMC Savanna 2500 with the Steamway Galaxy 4100, Kohler 18 set up for $4000. The deal also included a Ninja Portable Classic w/Heater, RX20, 5 Wands, Kohler 25 Spare Engine, 4 Turbo Driers, Two Drieaze Dehums, Fogger, and more chemicals/rinses/ hoses, and accessories than my garage can handle. Due to the machine not running when purchased I sold some of the extras off to get it going. I will be sure to post pictures and detailed descriptions as I am learning a ton and might save some others with their machines. I also am very thankful to two local guys who I never met before but have helped and coached me so far. I am mechanical, but lets be honest when I purchased the TM I didn't know where and how to connect the wand. Thankfully, the TM came with a manual.

When purchased, the burner would not ignite. Quite a daunting task to get going when all you understand is that a valve opens a fuel line into the trucks fuel tank running the Kohler engine, then there's a diesel tank five feet a burner capable to 200 degrees and a high voltage ignitor under a leaky holding tank.

Originally, I planned to sell the machine and had a few guys come out and take a look at what I had. Ultimately, no one bought it, but was probably the best things I did because people who know what they are looking at and don't want to spend top dollar on used equipment are sure to let you know everything that is wrong with your setup.

First, I changed the ignitor. This is when I found out about Steam existing on a much smaller scale than it did when the machine was originally purchased, making it harder to get parts and more so in Canada. After changing the ignitor the burner still would not fire up. Thankfully, one of the potential buyers told me about the DC motor and its few functions.

Second, I changed the DC motor. This was a hard part as Steamway only had one in stock and the shipping would take a couple of days. I was a little discouraged finding out how hard it would be to get parts so I decided after not being able to find another supplier of the part to have a local shop repair, therefore I knew how important it is to have local guys supply/repair the machine if planned to use and operate in the future. I had it rebuilt. Immediately, the motor allowed the cage to throw exhaust up and out of the trucks vent as well as run the diesel fuel pump.

After this I did a few friends and families homes with the help of a retired carpet cleaner who I happened to meet in a craigslist deal for something completely unrelated to truck mounts... divine appointments.

A few weeks later my truck mount it once again down. I didn't know that the machine had to be descaled. I am learning the hardway and after having a handful of rust and buildup fire out of my bleeder valve hose I know its the next step. The heater won't kick on which I believe is due to the lack of water flow through the coil. I am planning to work on the truck this weekend and descale and tune the system. Also, could it be a flow switch? If I disconnect the water line after the pressure regulator and flow switch at the coil inlet quick connect and let that flow into a bucket the burner fires right up. Once connected the burner does not fire.

I look forward to meeting members and if you have any advice or input on my machine please let me know. I will try to add write ups and pictures to my new adventures in the truck mount.



-Johnmark
 
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Joe cool

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Welcome to the site .
You have 2 hands full with that .GL
 

Johnmark

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The good news is I got the truck up and running. I don't know if there's a better way to learn, but if something breaks I find myself doing research and then getting the tools out. We ran a descaler through the coil. I bypassed the pump and ran through the lower coil inlet and out with a small 12v pump. In doing so I learnt something interesting. Even after descaling the coil may block up. Rather than running descaler/acid through the system again and again, as it should have done it job, you may need to remove the dislodged scale with fresh water. The best way to do this is to flow fresh water through the coil from both the coil inlet and outlet to get the blockage out rather than forcing it out with the operating pump pressure. I did this by placing two female hose fittings on two garden hoses lengths (3ft). First I connected one to the coil inlet and disconnected the coil hose outlet after the flow switch/regulator at the lower quick connect. I placed the outlet hose into a bucket and turn on the garden hose, sure enough rust came out. But if I set the system up I would still have restricted flow. So now reverse the garden hose flow by placing the garden hose on the coil outlet. This should result in even more rust coming out removing any blockages in the temp sender unit or switch that are directionally stuck with the operating water movement. I have included some pictures.
 

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Johnmark

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I was working on a home today and noticed that I am not getting the heat I used to out of the machine. I get about 100-150 and it fluctuates. I thought it may be the temp sender/gauge but am starting to think that it's my airflow mix or burner fuel psi. Has anyone had experiences with this?
 

Hawkins

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I was working on a home today and noticed that I am not getting the heat I used to out of the machine. I get about 100-150 and it fluctuates. I thought it may be the temp sender/gauge but am starting to think that it's my airflow mix or burner fuel psi. Has anyone had experiences with this?
Hello John. Names Matt. The burners on the stream way machines heat fluctuations are often due to the flow switch going bad. Weather it has scale build up or the little needle inside is starting to stick to the inner walls it will need replacing. Call Dave over at steam way. Tell him your story. He will probably know right away what you need and probably has it sitting on the shelf ready to go. Most guys buy two flow switches and keep the spare in the glove box. There are other things that could be causing it but the flow switch is the most common. Hope this helps.
 
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Hawkins

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You might also check by hand that the fan for the burner spins freely. The bearings can sometimes freeze up enough to slow the fan down and the fuel pump for the burner down which could also affect the heat like your talking about.
 
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Johnmark

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Hi Matt, Thanks for the info. I think the flow switch is fine because the burner kicks in great with the bleeder valve open as well as when running the wand. I figured the only thing I had changed was the diesel psi bolt on the solenoid switch so I loosened it today and the temp began to rise and the water was heating fine. I plan on dialling it in tomorrow and running it long enough to get the temp to 150-220 range. I had also broken a wire behind the temp dial so today I fixed it properly with a solder gun.
 
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Johnmark

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When I was first sold the unit, the burner was getting no fuel. I replaced the dc motor as it was seized so that should be fine.
 
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Hawkins

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Good deal John. Hope that's all it is. If not though give Dave at steam way a call. He is very helpful and is always willing and won't try to charge you for a phone call just parts.
 
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Johnmark

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As the system sits before firing it up. We got hot water and a little bit of steam coming off...could be because it's a bit chilly in the Vancouver/Seattle area. But t sure feels good to get a handle on the mechanics of the machine. Now my focus is to get the heat up as HOT as possible and fine tune little leaks, change quick releases, and clean it up over the winter.

Out of curiosity what are all the purposes of the flow switch? Does it just direct the solenoid from water flow to the burner firing or is there more to it?
 

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wuznmee

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As the system sits before firing it up. We got hot water and a little bit of steam coming off...could be because it's a bit chilly in the Vancouver/Seattle area. But t sure feels good to get a handle on the mechanics of the machine. Now my focus is to get the heat up as HOT as possible and fine tune little leaks, change quick releases, and clean it up over the winter.

Out of curiosity what are all the purposes of the flow switch? Does it just direct the solenoid from water flow to the burner firing or is there more to it?
It's a safety device. It assures a constant flow of water to the burner and signals the burner to cut out when the flow is restricted. Without it, you run the risk of overheating the burner and exploding the coil or blowing a high pressure hose due to steam pressure.
 
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Out of curiosity what are all the purposes of the flow switch? Does it just direct the solenoid from water flow to the burner firing or is there more to it?
It's that simple. When your heater switch is on the 12V DC motor is spinning, thus the kerosene pump is also "pumping" the entire time. The flow switch closes the circuit to the fuel solenoid, allowing fuel to the burner only when water is flowing. There's a pretty good diagram in your manual (Figure 7-2) or on page 25 of the free PDF version at Steamway.com. To find it just click on "Parts" and scroll to the bottom. Feel free to give a call if you have any further questions.
 

bob_rugratz

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It's that simple. When your heater switch is on the 12V DC motor is spinning, thus the kerosene pump is also "pumping" the entire time. The flow switch closes the circuit to the fuel solenoid, allowing fuel to the burner only when water is flowing. There's a pretty good diagram in your manual (Figure 7-2) or on page 25 of the free PDF version at Steamway.com. To find it just click on "Parts" and scroll to the bottom. Feel free to give a call if you have any further questions.
@Reflections138. Ask this guy when and how much?