You have to remember that there is a sill plates so if you cut two inches above that you will have to either replace drywall or get taller base boards, by punching holes you are allowing forced air to enter the wall cavity without causing more repairs.Quick question, why not just cut out say an inch or 2 from the bottow of the sheet rock then then setup air mover in the room amd that will dry that too instead of punch holes and that "bag" with extra airmover to blow in ?
Well obviously more equipment means more money but if say this was all cash job and tight budget or you simply do not have that extra equipment would the technic I described be acceptable ?
This is true in many cases. But Jason I will rip out anything that I think needs to go esp floors. Insurance companies don't like unhappy clients so they almost take care of it every time. The key is good documentation. On top of it if its something major ill call the adjuster. Your right about the dance though. They develop a 6th sense and know when they are being duped.Not if we a service professionals are causing the need for the repairs. Insurance adjusters have been to the dance many times before so they are going to refuse to pay for repairs that could of been avoided.
That is exactly what we do Rob. dry down and move on. price is to get structure dry.This will be about a 3k dry down job. What is a dry down job? Where you only rip out and dry the structure. No reconstruction. I find construction to be a pita so we refer drywall and carpenters guys directly which accomplishes several things;
1) Client saves money and can put some in their own pocket.
2) I don't have to hassle with subs.
3) Minimal effort with maximum profit.
This is an easy job. We prefer the easy ones and usually sub out the Cat 3's and or if it is above 20k to a large local company who gives me a referral fee.
After tearing out all affected ceiling we take out baseboards where walls are affected. Using a non penetrating moisture meter I compare a dry area to a wet area. My goal is to match the wet affected area to a dry wall in another unaffected room. I want the moisture content to be the normal in the home as my finishing point.,taking a razor knife I cut along the top if the baseboard then use a small pry tool to remove the baseboard.
The drywall is only wet about 12" up. No need to remove drywall and I'll show you what you can do to avoid removal later.
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We use a tack hammer for this. it is super quick. I have done this method many times but really wet sheetrock will have mold growth on paper backing cause it is almost impossible to treat properly unless your sprayer is shaped like a u , even then to many obstructions to get it all with microbs, So not a bad idea to put sheetrock replacement suggestion on the slip they sign. Although we all know most don't. Looks good on this side of the wall. If dried quickly then chances are better. but I have seen some BAD mold behind a perfectly fine wall.