Sealant for rotomolded plastic?

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AZHome&Carpet

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Apr 23, 2018
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Michael Stevens
#1
Upgraded to 2” on my new porty. But the way it was designed there’s no way to get a nut on the back of the 2” starter. I want to make a shield for splash instead since I can’t use a 90. Anyone know what glue/sealant works ok with rotomolded plastic?
 
Dec 3, 2012
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#2
Upgraded to 2” on my new porty. But the way it was designed there’s no way to get a nut on the back of the 2” starter. I want to make a shield for splash instead since I can’t use a 90. Anyone know what glue/sealant works ok with rotomolded plastic?
Pics?
 

AZHome&Carpet

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#3
Oh so sorry, man I’ve worked a ton this week. After the upgrade I forgot to even get a pic. I’ll do it!
This is the mod you suggested, and man it makes a massive performance difference. I’m not sure with only one 6.6 I’ll have enough but I’m going to give it a go!
 

AZHome&Carpet

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#4
I shouldn’t of been to surprised but never thought about it. Kayak forum was helpful EM 89 or Lexel if anyone else needed to ever know.
 
Last edited:
Dec 3, 2012
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#5
You can use the stack itself to hold a deflector. L bracket on top of stack holding a plastic or aluminum plate to block incoming water from ball cage. Hardware store sells basic taps with drill bit. 1/4-20 very common but 10-24 would do. Many ways to do it. Just take it off before drilling it so pvc bits dont fall into the motors. Could even hose clamp a L bracket in place of drilling. But will likely get knocked off. Worth a try.
 

AZHome&Carpet

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Michael Stevens
#6
You can use the stack itself to hold a deflector. L bracket on top of stack holding a plastic or aluminum plate to block incoming water from ball cage. Hardware store sells basic taps with drill bit. 1/4-20 very common but 10-24 would do. Many ways to do it. Just take it off before drilling it so pvc bits dont fall into the motors. Could even hose clamp a L bracket in place of drilling. But will likely get knocked off. Worth a try.
Hum I didn’t think of adding it on the stack itself, good idea.
 
Dec 3, 2012
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#8
Its leaking air there? Just use silicone. I used permatex rtv blue from automotive store. Or any 100% silicone should do it. Depot has Rain Ready 100%. Sets in 30 min. Ide silicone both inside and out.
 

AZHome&Carpet

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Michael Stevens
#9
Its leaking air there? Just use silicone. I used permatex rtv blue from automotive store. Or any 100% silicone should do it. Depot has Rain Ready 100%. Sets in 30 min. Ide silicone both inside and out.
No it doesn’t leak. I used lexel on the threads. Without a nut on he back I was concerned with it coming loose. So today I used the lexel on the threads and tightended it up.
Without the 90 later today I’m adding the splash guard today as well. I really don’t want water in my motor.
I’m hoping this helps my 6.6 vac. I wish my machine had two 6.6 motors :( I’m sure the 2” will help, made a massive difference on my older machine.
 

AZHome&Carpet

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#12
No literally how it’s rotomolded on the back it simply won’t all for a nut on the back way way to tight. So I glued it. After a few hours I’m going to check it out. I should of mounted a new 2” hole and kept that one 1.5. But hind sight...
 

AZHome&Carpet

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#13
The front nut removed or not btw would make no difference.
 
Dec 3, 2012
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#14
So you have an ofset gap inside of machine due to shape of the mould? Maybe epoxy stick. Im not sure it will seal. But it is easy to mould around stuff. Turns into a rock too.
 

AZHome&Carpet

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#15
2 part epoxy sticks and I go way way. I may go pick on up. I’m not sure it will stick to plastic but it will dry hard and shouldn’t allow the barb to turn.
 
Dec 3, 2012
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#16
2 part epoxy sticks and I go way way. I may go pick on up. I’m not sure it will stick to plastic but it will dry hard and shouldn’t allow the barb to turn.
Plumbers one. It should. Its used on plastic trap and pvc. It gets real tacky. You have some working time with it. But it will turn solid as a rock. But ide get silicone behind that front nut first if possible.
 

AZHome&Carpet

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#17
It’s sealed well lexel. I sanded the hole slowly so it was a real nice tight fit
 
Dec 3, 2012
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#19
I don’t need any additional glue the lexel made it super tight. I glued in a splash shield. It’s not pretty but in there tough.
See how it runs after its cured. I dont know if your splash sheild will hold up. Is that mylar duct insulation? It might get sucked around the intake. It gets pretty rough in there when gulps of water come crashing though. If it does just switch to a piece of lexan. It cuts easy scar with blade and snap. Polycarbonate will work too but needs to be cut with a saw. Youll want air space above and below. If water fills up and touches bottom it will pull against intake sealing it off.
 

AZHome&Carpet

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Apr 23, 2018
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Michael Stevens
#20
It is “double bubble” insulation. Hum didn’t think there would be that much turbulence but for sure I’ll check it. In fact I’ll maybe I’ll buy a piece of lexan your advise has never failed me yet. That glue I used is some tough stuff.
There is a lot of air space above it and below it. But maybe I do need to come up with a better design. I’ve always got to do things around running my business, being with my wife and kids, normal life, and endlessly never having the time to do much for myself!
 
Likes: keep it clean