Rust Remover - Iron Remover | TruckMount Forums #1 Carpet Cleaning Forums

Dec 2, 2019
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Hi Guys

I use Craftex Rust, Iron & Mould Remover. Amazing product. Works instant on any type of rust stains. I had a chat with few other contractors and they told me that the word "iron" makes all the difference. Prochem Rust Remover does not contain the word Iron and this is the reason why is not as good.

I plan to see this product to few people. I ask the manufacturer for some help but they know nothing. They gave me data sheet but that does not says a lot. I just want to be able to explain why this product is better & what iron removing does better

Any ideas?
 

Luky

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Hi Guys

I use Craftex Rust, Iron & Mould Remover. Amazing product. Works instant on any type of rust stains. I had a chat with few other contractors and they told me that the word "iron" makes all the difference. Prochem Rust Remover does not contain the word Iron and this is the reason why is not as good.

I plan to see this product to few people. I ask the manufacturer for some help but they know nothing. They gave me data sheet but that does not says a lot. I just want to be able to explain why this product is better & what iron removing does better

Any ideas?
Can't speak for other brands, but Prochem is my rust remover to go. It's true that I wasn't able to remove rust from concrete, but Prochem performed well removing rust from any other surface not only the carpet. As always you have to rinse it out well.
 
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Don`t get me wrong. I agree with you, Prochem Rust Remover is an amazing product. But the new product is even better
 

Ed Cruz

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Can't speak for other brands, but Prochem is my rust remover to go. It's true that I wasn't able to remove rust from concrete, but Prochem performed well removing rust from any other surface not only the carpet. As always you have to rinse it out well.
What about wool? Can you use it on wool? I have the JonDon stuff and it says to rinse with 10% aminonia so I usually don’t use it at all. Every time I did it only lightened the spot. Your rinsing with just water?
 

Luky

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What about wool? Can you use it on wool? I have the JonDon stuff and it says to rinse with 10% aminonia so I usually don’t use it at all. Every time I did it only lightened the spot. Your rinsing with just water?
I'm not sure how to answer that. Rust remover is an acidic side, so you would think it would be safe ti use it on wool. Depending on how much trouble would active ingredient in rust remover cause for wool carpeting. I've used Prochem's brand on many types of surfaces and types of carpet, including wool carpet, wood and tiles with no problem. I didn't experienced any color loss, rinsed well with water only. Avoid fumes inhalation and wear protective gloves.
I didn't have any adverse reaction from rust remover applied to a granite.
 

Ed Cruz

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I'm not sure how to answer that. Rust remover is an acidic side, so you would think it would be safe ti use it on wool. Depending on how much trouble would active ingredient in rust remover cause for wool carpeting. I've used Prochem's brand on many types of surfaces and types of carpet, including wool carpet, wood and tiles with no problem. I didn't experienced any color loss, rinsed well with water only. Avoid fumes inhalation and wear protective gloves.
I didn't have any adverse reaction from rust remover applied to a granite.
I’m gonna switch to a brand I can rinse with just water.
 
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wandwizard

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I’m gonna switch to a brand I can rinse with just water.
I've always just rinsed rust removers out really well and never once had a problem. I used to use Chemspec all the time and now use Matrix (same thing). Some say they can be rinsed with an alkaline cleaning solution in order to neutralize. Another mentioned using baking soda. T-Rust from Bridgepoint does state it does not need to be neutralized and can be rinsed with plain water. I'm not sure there's another one on the market that actually states that although Pros Choice doesn't say anything about needing anything other than rinsing after use with their Rust Away.

The only thing I've ever seen a rust remover do to carpet is to remove rust with the exception of one that didn't do anything at all. I've been using Matrix which has worked pretty well. I apply it, agitate it, and let it dwell while I'm doing something else and then rinse it really well. I steer clear of the Hydrofluoric acid ones like the one that started this thread. It appears to be very similar if not the same as the Whink sold here in the states.
 
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Ed Cruz

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I've always just rinsed rust removers out really well and never once had a problem. I used to use Chemspec all the time and now use Matrix (same thing). Some say they can be rinsed with an alkaline cleaning solution in order to neutralize. Another mentioned using baking soda. T-Rust from Bridgepoint does state it does not need to be neutralized and can be rinsed with plain water. I'm not sure there's another one on the market that actually states that although Pros Choice doesn't say anything about needing anything other than rinsing after use with their Rust Away.

The only thing I've ever seen a rust remover do to carpet is to remove rust with the exception of one that didn't do anything at all. I've been using Matrix which has worked pretty well. I apply it, agitate it, and let it dwell while I'm doing something else and then rinse it really well. I steer clear of the Hydrofluoric acid ones like the one that started this thread. It appears to be very similar if not the same as the Whink sold here in the states.
Thanks. I have the Matrix one. Maybe spot the rust with it then apply my prespray to the rest of carpet and rinse with water? I’ve always followed the directions and applied the ammonia but in a lot of situations didn’t have any on hand so I just improved the spot and carried on. I’ve had luck lightening the spot with prespray then hitting it with fels.
 

wandwizard

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Thanks. I have the Matrix one. Maybe spot the rust with it then apply my prespray to the rest of carpet and rinse with water? I’ve always followed the directions and applied the ammonia but in a lot of situations didn’t have any on hand so I just improved the spot and carried on. I’ve had luck lightening the spot with prespray then hitting it with fels.
I have used the Matrix product for a number of years and so far it's been 100% effective and I only have rinsed it out thoroughly after application. It does say to rinse with an alkaline detergent like Finish First or Confidence, but I just rinse it well with either plain water or with All Fiber Rinse. It is not the strongest rust remover on the market or the fastest I'm sure. The ph is only 5.5 while some of the others are around 1 or 2. If I were using something that strong of an acid I think it would need to be more carefully neutralized by an equally strong alkaline. Some rust removers are fairly dangerous so as long as I'm getting the job done with something a little safer and that doesn't really require any special neutralizing that's what I'm going to do. I think all rust removers are at least a little on the hazardous side, but hydrofluoric acid and a few of the others are pretty scary.

Btw, I have had to occasionally treat a rust stain twice and agitate it to get it out. Dwell time helps too. Also, I've seen cases where there were stains that looked like rust, but were something else entirely. Recently I had to take out a pretty large rust stain where a liquid got under a filing cabinet and rusted the whole area. I heavily treated with Matrix RR, agitated it, and let it sit a good while. The rust came out completely, but there was a secondary stain from the liquid and I couldn't completely remove it. The customer was still happy with the job, but only a bonded insert could have fixed that problem.
 

Ed Cruz

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I have used the Matrix product for a number of years and so far it's been 100% effective and I only have rinsed it out thoroughly after application. It does say to rinse with an alkaline detergent like Finish First or Confidence, but I just rinse it well with either plain water or with All Fiber Rinse. It is not the strongest rust remover on the market or the fastest I'm sure. The ph is only 5.5 while some of the others are around 1 or 2. If I were using something that strong of an acid I think it would need to be more carefully neutralized by an equally strong alkaline. Some rust removers are fairly dangerous so as long as I'm getting the job done with something a little safer and that doesn't really require any special neutralizing that's what I'm going to do. I think all rust removers are at least a little on the hazardous side, but hydrofluoric acid and a few of the others are pretty scary.

Btw, I have had to occasionally treat a rust stain twice and agitate it to get it out. Dwell time helps too. Also, I've seen cases where there were stains that looked like rust, but were something else entirely. Recently I had to take out a pretty large rust stain where a liquid got under a filing cabinet and rusted the whole area. I heavily treated with Matrix RR, agitated it, and let it sit a good while. The rust came out completely, but there was a secondary stain from the liquid and I couldn't completely remove it. The customer was still happy with the job, but only a bonded insert could have fixed that problem.
The Matrix one I have says to rinse with a certain % ammonia.
 

wandwizard

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The Matrix one I have says to rinse with a certain % ammonia.
Using the ammonia is if you are not cleaning the carpet after using it. It also says another alkaline spotter can also be used other than ammonia if the carpet isn't being rinsed out. I suspect even a mild product like Spot Out, ph about 9, would neutralize it just fine.
 
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Scott W

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Be very careful with the hydrofluoric acid based rust removers. They do work fast and work well but can damage many things and can cause significant harm if you get even a drop on you or inhale too much.

T-Rust is safer but does work slower. It is still my choice.

The word "iron" in the product name has nothing to do with the effectiveness.
 
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wandwizard

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Where do you buy Matrix rust remover from?

Window Cleaning
It's from the Jondon line of products. It's nothing special, but it does do the trick and I don't have to pay hazardous shipping charges on it. If you have Chemspec products available in your area I am pretty sure their rust remover is the exact same thing. I've only bought one rust remover in my entire life that had no effect at all on any rust stains so I think most of them do work. Some just work faster than others and some are pretty hazardous and by that, I mean extremely dangerous if you get it on you or even inhale it.
 
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Mama Fen

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Hi Guys

I use Craftex Rust, Iron & Mould Remover. Amazing product. Works instant on any type of rust stains. I had a chat with few other contractors and they told me that the word "iron" makes all the difference. Prochem Rust Remover does not contain the word Iron and this is the reason why is not as good.

I plan to see this product to few people. I ask the manufacturer for some help but they know nothing. They gave me data sheet but that does not says a lot. I just want to be able to explain why this product is better & what iron removing does better

Any ideas?
Craftex is an "old-school" hydrofluoric acid formula - it is LETHAL if misused or abused. In the US, these products are no longer available (if you do a Google image search of hydrofluoric acid burns, you'll understand why pretty quickly).

Today's rust removers, often made with ammoniated compounds, are less hazardous... and on stubborn spots, may take longer to work. However, considering the risk tradeoff, the industry as a whole is better off with these new formulas than with the older ones.
 
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wandwizard

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Craftex is an "old-school" hydrofluoric acid formula - it is LETHAL if misused or abused. In the US, these products are no longer available (if you do a Google image search of hydrofluoric acid burns, you'll understand why pretty quickly).

Today's rust removers, often made with ammoniated compounds, are less hazardous... and on stubborn spots, may take longer to work. However, considering the risk tradeoff, the industry as a whole is better off with these new formulas than with the older ones.
Have they changed to the formula for Whink? It is hydrofluoric acid and appears to still be sold the same as it has been for many years. I've known of several carpet cleaners saying how well it works, but after reading the msds on it I said, thanks, but no thanks. I'd say it's probably the scariest msds I've ever seen, but I'm sure there's stuff out there that's even worse.
 

Mama Fen

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Have they changed to the formula for Whink? It is hydrofluoric acid and appears to still be sold the same as it has been for many years. I've known of several carpet cleaners saying how well it works, but after reading the msds on it I said, thanks, but no thanks. I'd say it's probably the scariest msds I've ever seen, but I'm sure there's stuff out there that's even worse.
It's a lower-concentration HF formula (about half the strength if memory serves), and marketed toward homeowner use. Professional carpet cleaning chemicals, as a whole, do not use this chemical in their formulas any more.

In other words, Suzie Housewife can burn her fingers off, but the chemists who build stuff for YOU guys would rather you didn't.
 
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Mama Fen

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The scariest thing about HF is this - despite being considered a "weak" acid, it is absorbed through the skin directly into the bloodstream (much like DMSO), where it begins to react with the calcium in your body to do immediate damage. Since it also shuts down the local nervous system and removes your ability to feel pain, burns can go untreated for hours or even days, while the damage is getting worse and worse inside your body.

The intense pain associated with HF burns doesn't come from the damaged skin of the hand or foot or whatever was exposed - it comes later from the death associated with "deep tissue toxicity", for lack of a better phrase. In other words, your own body tissues are becoming toxic and poisonous, and the body tries desperately to 'kill off' the toxic tissue via cell death. THIS DOES NOT FEEL GOOD. It is described as some of the most agonizing pain known to man, like burning to death from the inside out.

Not something I wanna play with. Just this year in Taiwan, there was a case where an aggravated fellow threw HF on his neighbor, splashing his face and neck. The victim died quickly of multiple organ failure, but not before horrified medical personnel witnessed his body giving off big gouts of white smoke.
 
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mbrandt

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I use a product that is from ServiceMaster called Rust Remover. It is a jell. Smells like a beauty shop when someone is getting a perm. Not the best odor. When put on rust it turns purple in color. Works pretty good. Just takes a bit to rinse out
 

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I use a product that is from ServiceMaster called Rust Remover. It is a jell. Smells like a beauty shop when someone is getting a perm. Not the best odor. When put on rust it turns purple in color. Works pretty good. Just takes a bit to rinse out
I got some of that in a Craigslist deal. I wondered how I would use it, and actually it came in handy on tile and grout. I have no clue how to get more of it, but I would like another gel rust remover if anybody has recommendations