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RECOAT VCT

torchman

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Jan 29, 2015
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Adam morris
There are matts but they do not like them close to the doors so they keep them about 6 feet in from the entrance which in my eyes defeats the purpose. The guys are hard on the floors they just had the vct tile put in and did not have anything done to it right away. Then the about 6 to 8 months later they had it coated. The chairs in that area have metal feet and with the dirt and sand on the floor when they move the chair in and out from the tables they sit at it just grinds into the floor. i have told them many times the chairs are destroying the floor. I try my best to keep the floors and base boards clean but it is tough with all the tar, sand and dirt.
 
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floorclean

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Mar 31, 2016
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Dale MacDonald
My suggestion is get into a buffing program. It will keep the floor clean and shinny and the tar will come right off with the buff chemical. Use a green pad to spray buff and the red to bring up the shine. It's a program I use with a factory we have the same issue. It works perfect!!!
 
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floorclean

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Dale MacDonald
Oh hell! We buff three or four times a week and strip once a year and scrub and recoat half way between. It's one of the best and oldest systems for wax able flooring. I think taski was the ones that made it popular. Beautiful system.
 

floorclean

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Dale MacDonald
This floor is on a spray buff system and its been months in a factory without recoating.
 

Jason Miller

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Aug 16, 2015
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Chemical free sq scrub is great for top scrubs. Guys that claim it does a 100% strip. I'm convinced are either hacks or don't know what a floor should look like 100% stripped
 

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floorclean

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Dale MacDonald
I bought a square scrub used it once and sold it! Hated it. I figure if I'm going to that much trouble of using a square scrub I'll do it the old way. BUT THAT WAS ME not a judgement call on people who like them
 

Jason Miller

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I bought a square scrub used it once and sold it! Hated it. I figure if I'm going to that much trouble of using a square scrub I'll do it the old way. BUT THAT WAS ME not a judgement call on people who like them
For the most part they are a over rated worthless tool. On occasion they come in really nice. But other than that.... get a wall banger
 

floorclean

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Dale MacDonald
Trouble was I am a sales man for a janitorial company part time and have sold them to customers ooooop's lol
 

floorclean

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Sorry!, the first two were spray buffed and then burnished. And your right the rest were recoats that were on this system after a year. Four top coats. Phone rang and never added that.
 

Reflections138

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Nov 21, 2014
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I use a neutral cleaner. after mixing it, I add about 8 ounces of strip. (6 gallon solution). This helps soften the floor just a little without taking off too much wax. Then 2 coats of wax.
 

Mike Krall

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Apr 24, 2013
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Sorry!, the first two were spray buffed and then burnished. And your right the rest were recoats that were on this system after a year. Four top coats. Phone rang and never added that.
What do you use for spray buffing?

Wait, you spray buffed with a 175 first and then hit it with a burnisher?

BTW, the blue tile floor looks wicked!
 

MPR

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Mar 10, 2014
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Hi mike, when we scrub and recoat we use a 14ph butyl degreaser. Eight cups in a Pail of very hot water flood the floor as if you were stripping now depending on how good or bad the floor is we may use even a black pad but usually a green pad never a red it's for polishing not scrubbing. Scrub the floor three rinses and recoat. And by the way you don't have to wait to start your first coat till the floor is dry it won't hurt to start when it's still damp from your rinse. We will usually recoat with three to four coats. Only the last coat to the walls the other a tile and a half out from the walls. Never wax beside toilets or behind. And never wax where there furniture that will never move example a staff fridge. Then finish with a 2000 rpm burnisher. I'd suggest you look into the rubber maid web foot microfibre mop heads. There just plain the best!! Hope this helps.
I am concerned with your suggestions. I am not indicating your method is incorrect, just not to my experience. I have seen floors that were not allowed to dry and the water bubbles up between the tiles and ruined the finish application. I have also never heard of buffing before 24 hours, as the finish needs to cure. I have buffed before applying finish as it shines floor base, but not after finish application.
 

floorclean

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Dale MacDonald
First off if water bubbles up between the tiles it means there not adhered properly in the first place. Second off mostly every janitorial company that does large square footage that I know will do burnishing after the last coat is dried. What it will do is evaporate most of the water out of the finish and cute it much faster. There for making the finish much harder. In grocery stores this is very important because people are walking on it as soon as your done. Buffing bare floors after stripping is an older way of floor finishing we used to do that in the 80's before floor finishes were self sealing. Just to try and see the end results of what I'm suggesting give it a shot. I'd never tell someone something that would cause them more work. Just as I said make sure your last coat is good and dry. We always use box fans to dry finish pointing up wards never directly at the finish or sitting on the finish.
 
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