Proper chemistry | what's running through your solution lines | TruckMount Forums #1 Carpet Cleaning Forums

Proper chemistry | what's running through your solution lines

Johnwick

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Let's say you have one room of carpet. You spray down Black Label to raise the ph. Then when you clean, do you use an acid rinse that is running through your equipment? Do you use hot water only?
 

Todd the Cleaner

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Water only or acid rinse.

Raise your minimum to $100. when you account for drive time, setup time, time to deal with the customer both before and after the job, and time to put everything away you will spend an hour to do just one room. Don’t sell yourself short.

A higher minimum will also weed out most of the cheap customers.
 

Johnwick

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Water only or acid rinse.

Raise your minimum to $100. when you account for drive time, setup time, time to deal with the customer both before and after the job, and time to put everything away you will spend an hour to do just one room. Don’t sell yourself short.

A higher minimum will also weed out most of the cheap customers.
Thanks Todd. I purchased Rob's all fiber rinse. I mixed 2 oz/ gallon and tested it out in my sun room. It's been 24 hours and still has a strong chemical smell from the fragrance. Any suggestions?
 

sbsscn

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Ph is to me the reason for running acid rinse or not

in your case i would rinse with an acid to bring ph to a neutral
 

sbsscn

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Let's say you have one room of carpet. You spray down Black Label to raise the ph. Then when you clean, do you use an acid rinse that is running through your equipment? Do you use hot water only?

you dont pre spray to bring Ph up, you pre spray to apply a alkaline detergent to break down and suspend (acidic) soil
 
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mrotto

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About 10 years ago, I switched to hot water only. Most of my customers are repeat and I did see a difference when I went back the next time as the carpet seemed cleaner than before. So convinced I removed my chem pump on my last truckmount
 

Jim Davisson

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Water used to clean, the native hardness it contains and the chems it ties up before the solution hits the carpet matters a good bit. After it gets to the the rinse portion and after adequate chems have been applied and worked in, surfactant is more important to me at this point of the job. Not pH or anything else. If low pH was the difference maker, use a low pH prespray to start with and cut a hog in the ass.
 
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rob allen

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Black Label can be used with or without a rinse. It is a HWE and also an Encap product. Rinse can be used as a way to lower pH. It is also a way to combat water hardness. Key is use what the carpet fiber, soil type and soil level is. You don’t need a hammer to kill an ant but you do need a hammer to kill a rat nasty. Let the home dictate what you use, not what someone says they do.
 
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Johnwick

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Thanks Rob. I have a lot of things to unlearn from the company I've worked at. I had no idea BL could be used as is. I was taught that alkaline pre sprays need to be rinsed bc they have dirt attracting residue... I need to take a class or two from youo_O.
 
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OxiFreshGuy

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Old school alkaline cleaners were not as free rinsing and often were 10-12 pH. Things have changed a bit with newer chemicals that don't require as much.

I'd advocate using a soft-water system on a truck as that will meet your needs 70% of the time.

I did however recently use Acid Rinse to fix a Stanley Steemer job, guy left the carpet SUPER CRUNCHY.
 
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Tom Forsythe

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Dirt attracting residue relates more to surfactants and solvents than alkalinity. Alkalinity's only role in re-soiling is in the sense that residues are hygroscopic (hold on to water) meaning they slow down drying. Some surfactants and solvents can be sticky. Solvents like d'limonene are not soluble in water and can be hard to rinse out without surfactancy. Rinses are used at dilutions from 1 to 320 and 1 to 640 so they are unlikely to be the reason for re-soiling. Pre-spray at dilutions from 1 to 8 to 1 to 32, which are not effectively rinsed out of the carpet are the primary culprit in re-soiling. Use of a solvent-based protector on carpet will cause re-soiling all by itself.
 

OxiFreshGuy

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Hey Tom - is it really recommended to put 1-2 ounce of rinse in a 5 gallon chemical pump? The instructions I've read on most rinses is 32 ounces of rinse in a 5 gallon chemical pump for the truck mount.
 

Tom Forsythe

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On normal settings, the last step chemical injection dilutes that to 1 to 320. Powder instructions are 16 lq. oz.to 5 gallon resulting in 1 to 640. The truckmount gurus, which I am definitely not one, can explain that process better than I.
 

OxiFreshGuy

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Well it can be set to run GPH mix to increase the concentration - I'd say that sounds about right since at a 1 GPH ratio of cleaning you're effectively using a diluted mix of 6.4 ounces acid rinse to 128 ounces of water ratio plus what it mixing with coming out through the pump.

So I could see that end up being 1-2 ounces per 320 ounces used.
 
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Jim Davisson

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@OxiFreshGuy my .02

I think the best way to adjust your rinse is by eye and feel, bare with me here (no math I promise). If you use only a water rinse the wand leaves a dark swamp line at the end of the stroke, too much rinse and it's a really foamy white immediately as it hits the carpet. Right in the middle of those extremes is right with soft water, kinda grey swamp line. If you barely feel slickness from the wand spray on your hand you nailed it for a carpet that you used prespray on. You have just enough of the goods in solution to be affective without wasting chems on the rinse phase, take it for what it's worth.
 
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ACP

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I also go by feel when running a rinse. Just over time have gotten used to how many scoops to add to 5gal and how strong it will be set at 3 or how strong at 4 etc.

With a stronger rinse like formula 90 you have to be a little more careful, but an acid rinse like all fiber rinse it's pretty hard to over do it.
 
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rob allen

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I'm with yall. I give each house what it needs.