Prochem Blazer Xl heat and vacuum loss... Help please.

Sam1979

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Mar 24, 2016
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Sami Gabrail
Hi all,

New guy here, I have a prochem blazer xl with nearly 1000hrs.

The problem started a week ago with loss of vacuum and no heat when the machine is running.

With the vacuum port's clear and machine on full throttle it's reads in the middle of 0 and 5hg

With vacuum hose connected and on full throttle it's in the middle of 5 and 10hg

I always use to cover the vacuum hose with my hand before starting the job for 10seconds to build up the heat but now as soon I do that I can hear the machine struggling and the engine does turn off which I never had this problem before also a high pitch kinda noise is heard at the end.

Basket in waste tank and the tank been cleaned, blower oil been changed few days ago.

Thanks for all the help in advance guys.
 

raw74

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Hi all,

New guy here, I have a prochem blazer xl with nearly 1000hrs.

The problem started a week ago with loss of vacuum and no heat when the machine is running.

With the vacuum port's clear and machine on full throttle it's reads in the middle of 0 and 5hg

With vacuum hose connected and on full throttle it's in the middle of 5 and 10hg

I always use to cover the vacuum hose with my hand before starting the job for 10seconds to build up the heat but now as soon I do that I can hear the machine struggling and the engine does turn off which I never had this problem before also a high pitch kinda noise is heard at the end.

Basket in waste tank and the tank been cleaned, blower oil been changed few days ago.

Thanks for all the help in advance guys.
Have you checked your dump valve?
 

Paul Selby

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For the bogging down issue I would suggest making sure that the vac relief is opening properly. Start the machine and cover the vac port completely. You should hear a hissing from the vac relief as well as being able to see the spring and stud moving up and down.

For the heat, I would recommend descaling the unit and checking to make sure your bypasses are not opening prematurely or are stuck open.
 

Sam1979

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For the bogging down issue I would suggest making sure that the vac relief is opening properly. Start the machine and cover the vac port completely. You should hear a hissing from the vac relief as well as being able to see the spring and stud moving up and down.

For the heat, I would recommend descaling the unit and checking to make sure your bypasses are not opening prematurely or are stuck open.

I followed what you suggested my friend and a loud hissing was heard before the engine turning off but the spring and stud did not move up and down at all, this is the spring and stud next to the blower correct?

Also if you don't mind me asking how do I check my bypasses are not opening prematurely or are stuck open as you suggested after I descale the machine?

Thanks.
 

Paul Selby

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I followed what you suggested my friend and a loud hissing was heard before the engine turning off but the spring and stud did not move up and down at all, this is the spring and stud next to the blower correct?

Also if you don't mind me asking how do I check my bypasses are not opening prematurely or are stuck open as you suggested after I descale the machine?

Thanks.

Yes it is the spring part on the elbow coming out of the blower. Try manually pushing the relief in and see if it relieves the engine.
ImageUploadedByTMF Forums1459309452.290850.jpg

To check the bypasses (there should only be two, one is the temperature control valve on the front of the unit and the other is a temperature relief valve on the side of the water box) you remove the lid from the waste tank and follow the small lines to the side of the waste tank. Start the machine and check to see if there is any water coming into the waste tank from those two lines. If there is, follow the line back to the components and it will tell which one is the culprit.
 

Sam1979

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I have applied pressure on the spring some air was released but the spring didn't move much at all and the machine is still hissing before going off while the spring and stud still not moving
 

Joe cool

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Check for a blown out hose to the waste tank it could be the big hose , I believe there are two .
Your dump valve is closing fully ?
Check oil level in blower ?
You say it shuts off under a full load ? .. could be fuel issue .
 

seagrtj

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You need to check for spark on both cylinders and check the plugs as well. You could be running on one cylinder. Safest way to check for spark is the use a spark checker in line with the plug. Easiest way is while the engine is running pull the plug wire off one plug. If it stays running the other cylinder is working. Plug it back in and repeat the process for the other plug. For the $20 it will cost you, I would just change the plugs and air filter regardless. a clogged air filter will suffocate an engine.
 
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Ara Klujian

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No offense to anyone but some of these responses are incorrect. Regardless of any of that you need to correct the engine bogging issue first. Like someone mentioned grease the blower and change the blower oil. If the problem is still present, then do a complete engine tune up. Oil/filter change, fuel filter, air filter, spark plugs etc..
After all that, check to make sure the engine rpm is up to specs.

Note: When there is a vacuum leak, the load on the engine is reduced and the engine should have an easier time pulling that load. So basically, the engine and or blower needs to be addressed first. Also, do not adjust the spring tension on the blower until you are certain there are no vacuum leaks.

Note: The gaskets in the middle are in fact very important for proper sealing. Without the middle gaskets the lid will flex in the middle causing a possible leak in the outer seal.
 

Kevin Dumas

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No offense to anyone but some of these responses are incorrect. Regardless of any of that you need to correct the engine bogging issue first. Like someone mentioned grease the blower and change the blower oil. If the problem is still present, then do a complete engine tune up. Oil/filter change, fuel filter, air filter, spark plugs etc..
After all that, check to make sure the engine rpm is up to specs.

Before getting into all that I would check to make sure the vacuum relief is properly working and relieving at the correct vacuum.
And I like to use a 2nd. vacuum gauge and not rely solely on the TM gauge.
Improper vac relief settings and stuck reliefs will cause power losses and stalling issues.
 

Sam1979

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My apologise for my late response. Thank you everyone for your advice and help. After checking what what mentioned above, I decided to take the machine to a local lawn mower shop, who is a dealer for bridges and starter engines. After he checked the engine, I was advised there was no sparks coming from the left plug and the diode wire was faulty and had to be replaced. The machine now is working fine and back to normal.. once again, thank you all for your support and advice.