Performer 405 Carb.

Ara Klujian

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Carburator model DCG26-6
Apparently this carb is used for the A12 and A15
Make sure get the spacer and gaskets too. Those are notorious for cracking and or warping.
I have every spec, part number, proceedure etc...for that unit. If you need anything don't hessitate to ask! Adjusting that carb aint so typical either. Let me know if you want the proceedure.
 
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turkeytaker

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Prochem Performer Carburator Problem

I have a Prochem Performer unit that the carburator is getting too much fuel and is choking out the engine. I believe that this unit is the A12 model.

Can anyone give me any help for this issue.

I just got a carburator kit and am going to go through it and replace all the parts I can and totally clean it out.

I don't know what else to do.

Can anyone else offer any advice for this issue?

If you'd like to post to my email that would be great:
[email protected].

Thanks for any help that you can give.
 

Ara Klujian

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Explain better what is happening. Do you see fuel running out the side of the carb where the throttle/butterfly rod is? Did you install a new fuel pump lately? Posibly one that has too much pressure? I think its 4 psi max. All my specs are at the office. I can give you float height specs as well.
 

Ara Klujian

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Electronic fuel pumps that are on demand and will pump dry the type used on racing and rally cars like ‘Facet fuel pumps’ no bypass
Mines upto 7 PSI and dose not flood
4-7 psi would be the correct pressure. The type of On demand pumps you are refering to are for racing applications. Generally used on fuel rail multi port injection. As a secondary pump to cover extreme loads and higher rpm winding. A nissan A-12 is a far cry from a formula car or a mustang 5.0.
 

turkeytaker

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More Prochem Carburator Problems

I bought a kit and rebuilt the carburator A12 and put it all back together and started it up and it ran beautifully for around 7 minutes then it just died. It didn't want to start again. It back fires and tries to diesel.

I'm wondering if there is a sensor that could be out and could be shutting this down?

Any thoughts?

Please help.
 

Ara Klujian

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Listen for a very faint single click when you turn your override to the left. If you do not hear a click something is wrong with the anti-dieseling solenoid. Not being able to start it up again leads me to think that solenoid is bad or you have a wiring problem. You might also want to check your coil for resistance on the primary and secondary sides. its very important that you hear a click. Sometimes you can lightly tap that solenoid with a screwdriver or something to see if it opens and restarts.
 

turkeytaker

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Prochem Carburator

I thought I'd catch everybody up with what I found out on this truckmount.

I did hear the click that Ara mentioned in the anti-dieseling sylenoid.

I had rebuilt the Prochem A12 carburator, and I replaced the distributor cap which had no center post in it, just some pieces of junk in the hole where the post should be. I guess this thing must have been arking across to work. I also replaced the spark plugs and got all of this put together and it ran again for just a few minutes and stopped.

It seemed to me like there was a sensor or something shutting this down, so I decided to start checking the fluid levels in the unit. What I found was that the radiator fluid was way low apparantly from the freeze up and checking for broken heat exchangers. I had filled the overflow tank back up but apparantly there wasn't enough fluid to keep this unit cool when it warmed up.

After I filled it up with radiator fluid and water it ran perfectly without shutting off. Apparantly that sensor on the back of the motor was shutting it off because of too little fluid in the motor. This is a water cooled Prochem Performer.

I'm glad I decided to check this. I guess this should have been a no brainer, but It made it past me for a while. I guess this is just part of the learning curve for those of us new to truckmount ownership.

Thanks Ara for your help with the info on checking out this unit, and help on proper function of this unit. I truly appreciate your knowledge and help.

:bigsmiley:
 

idreadnought

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it is an anti dieseling solenoid. It shuts off the fuel at idle so the engine won't keep running by spontaneously combustion after the key switch is turned off. Diesels run by spontaneously combustion, which is detonation of the piston by heat and pressure. that is why it is called an anti dieseling solenoid
 

Batista230

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it is an anti dieseling solenoid. It shuts off the fuel at idle so the engine won't keep running by spontaneously combustion after the key switch is turned off.
Not sure about this one but By IDLE I’m going to presume you are talking about the engine not running as opposed to running on low revs
As soon as you turn the ignition key from run to stop (opening a circuit for the engine stop lug) you are turning the machine off through the engine stop lug
When you do this you also switch off all the electronics on the machine including the fuel pump and it’s the fuel pump that supplies the carburetor with fuel
So if the fuel supply has been shut off by the fuel pump what would be the point of a carburetor solenoid switching the fuel supply off as well
Or is it just a secondary back up for safety reasons to satisfy the do gooders in California

I think the carburetor solenoid is wired from live from the ignition switch when on the ‘run’ position and will only give a circuit when the machine is on ‘run’ position and no circuit when ignition is on ‘off’ position
So therefore the fuel valve will be open on circuit and valve off with no circuit
Of coerce you do relies the other factors to be taken into account for the machine to stop with out turning the key from run to off
Ran out of fuel not a problem hear
Waste and mixer tank oil sensor est.. engine kill devices
When they shut the machine down the ignition switch is still on the run possession meaning you have live to your fuel pump and live to your carburetor solenoid and if we are going to be rely b1tchy hear live to your hour reader and everything ells
But as I said before in this thread the fuel pump will only pump what is being demanded by the carb at the time
So in this incident of other engine kill devices then the key the carb solenoid is useless UNLESS somehow wired up in parallel with the engine stop lug

Sorry but…
. Diesels run by spontaneously combustion, which is detonation of the piston by heat and pressure. that is why it is called an anti dieseling solenoid
Does anyone know exactly what make and model the carburetor on the Performer 405's Nissan A12 motor is? $500+ for a new one and I'm looking for options.

Aaron
 

Batista230

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Explain better what is happening. Do you see fuel running out the side of the carb where the throttle/butterfly rod is? Did you install a new fuel pump lately? Posibly one that has too much pressure? I think its 4 psi max. All my specs are at the office. I can give you float height specs as well.
Listen for a very faint single click when you turn your override to the left. If you do not hear a click something is wrong with the anti-dieseling solenoid. Not being able to start it up again leads me to think that solenoid is bad or you have a wiring problem. You might also want to check your coil for resistance on the primary and secondary sides. its very important that you hear a click. Sometimes you can lightly tap that solenoid with a screwdriver or something to see if it opens and restarts.


Basically from what I have just read and posted and what you are saying he had a fuel supply problem (keeping it simple though)
 

johnny916

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Can someone answer a highly technical question regarding the Nissan A12 engine in the Prochem 405?

I was wondering if it's considered an A12 TALL BLOCK ??
 

Ara Klujian

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Can someone answer a highly technical question regarding the Nissan A12 engine in the Prochem 405?

I was wondering if it's considered an A12 TALL BLOCK ??
I think the A15 is a tall deck block because it is the same engine only the stroke is longer and the bore is much bigger.
 

polonez

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Explain better what is happening. Do you see fuel running out the side of the carb where the throttle/butterfly rod is? Did you install a new fuel pump lately? Posibly one that has too much pressure? I think its 4 psi max. All my specs are at the office. I can give you float height specs as well.

Hi Ara, I noticed today a little of fuel running out the side of the carburetor where the throttle/butterfly rod is?
Is there some seal that could be replaced? Thanks
 

Ara Klujian

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Hi Ara, I noticed today a little of fuel running out the side of the carburetor where the throttle/butterfly rod is?
Is there some seal that could be replaced? Thanks
The float inside the carb is most likely stuck. It is an extremely delicate piece. It is attached to a small plunger pin that opens and closes. The plunger may also be getting hung up.
Since the fuel pump is mechanical we can rule out over-pressure from a fuel pump making the plunger and or pin the problem.
Also, there may be a slight chance that the clip that holds the pin has dislodged itself. It is a tiny clip that requires a steady hand good eyesight and small tools to put back into place. If your lucky that could be the problem. Having the proper torque settings on the cover of the carb is important when putting the cover back on. If the cover is too tight you will drop the float level, if the cover is too loose you will raise the float level.
 
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