Overheating

Wickedloz

New Member
Jan 14, 2019
11
2
3
Real Name
Lozi
Hi all

I have a Prochem Blazer Plus truckmount and recently it has been overheating during operation.

I get through roughly 3/4 bedrooms and then the solution hoses are so hot I can’t touch them! The machine then randomly shuts down completely.

One time the connection near the wand from the solution hoses started spitting boiling hot water :(

Any suggestions?
 

JDARNOLD

Active Member
Jul 31, 2012
259
96
28
56
Real Name
Edward Arnold
Business Location
United States
Sounds like you have a clogged bypass orfice. On the right side of the unit between the seats there is two brass nuts. The one close to the waste tank is the one that has the orifice use a 3/16 Allen wrench and take it out to clean.
 
  • Like
Reactions: SRD

SRD

Well-Known Member
Nov 6, 2010
2,888
1,936
113
midwest
Real Name
Spencer Dawdy
Business Location
United States
How long has it been since youve descaled the unit?
 

Wickedloz

New Member
Jan 14, 2019
11
2
3
Real Name
Lozi
It’s been 12 months since descale. I’m not sure if the servicing tech did a descale.

I have never done one myself.
 

JDARNOLD

Active Member
Jul 31, 2012
259
96
28
56
Real Name
Edward Arnold
Business Location
United States
It’s been 12 months since descale. I’m not sure if the servicing tech did a descale.

I have never done one myself.
If the orfice is clogged, then take the other side out it has a screen on the nut whenever you get it off check and clean the screen.
If you have the manual for your unit it has the descaling instructions in it.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Wickedloz and SRD

Wickedloz

New Member
Jan 14, 2019
11
2
3
Real Name
Lozi
Ok, so I have cleaned the orifice, and taken the other nut off and there wasnt much stuff in there. Im going to try descaling next. Could there be any other reason?
 

JDARNOLD

Active Member
Jul 31, 2012
259
96
28
56
Real Name
Edward Arnold
Business Location
United States
Only the temperature bypass sensor. On the back right side of the unit there are two sensors one for the high temperature shutdown and the bypass solenoid sensor.
 
  • Like
Reactions: SRD

SRD

Well-Known Member
Nov 6, 2010
2,888
1,936
113
midwest
Real Name
Spencer Dawdy
Business Location
United States
Thermal valve on water box stuck shut? They usually stick open but worth looking at i think. I would descale it 1st though. I always run the descaler thru the system up to temp then shut the machine off and let it sit a couple hours then run it a little more before flushing it.
 

JDARNOLD

Active Member
Jul 31, 2012
259
96
28
56
Real Name
Edward Arnold
Business Location
United States
I said right side. It's on the left rear
 

wandwizard

Randy Dockins
Premium VIP
Nov 12, 2008
8,174
3,006
113
Real Name
Randy Dockins
Business Location
United States
Is this what I’m looking for?
That looks similar to what's on my Boxxer. Mine has two orifices. One is for high pressure and the other low pressure. The high pressure is the one that has a really tiny opening and it doesn't take much to clog it. When it does get clogged the machine will fairly quickly over heat and then it activates a shut down sensor at around 240 degrees. This sounds like what's happening to your machine. I don't know if you have a water softener, but that greatly helps with this problem. Still, 12 months is a long time not to descale which is fairly simple. That orifice can be taken out with an Allen wrench. Any cheap welder's tip cleaner can clean it out. You can also soak it a while in some CLR or white vinegar to remove scale. This is what the orifices look like.
pc-52501665-ea.jpg
 

wandwizard

Randy Dockins
Premium VIP
Nov 12, 2008
8,174
3,006
113
Real Name
Randy Dockins
Business Location
United States
Thermal valve on water box stuck shut? They usually stick open but worth looking at i think. I would descale it 1st though. I always run the descaler thru the system up to temp then shut the machine off and let it sit a couple hours then run it a little more before flushing it.
You're right that they normally stick in the open position. I've only had 1 that got stuck in the closed position and it caused the water in my water box to get REALLY boiling hot! I re-routed the line from my thermal valve years ago to dump into my freshwater tank. Solved a lot of problems for me and makes it far easier to tell if I have a problem with it. Hydramaster had the thermal valve and the dump solenoid both dumping at the same place into my waste tank. My waste tank doesn't fill nearly as fast and my freshwater lasts a lot longer as a result. Here's the line from my thermal valve as I've had it for years.
0206151433.jpg
 

Wickedloz

New Member
Jan 14, 2019
11
2
3
Real Name
Lozi
That looks similar to what's on my Boxxer. Mine has two orifices. One is for high pressure and the other low pressure. The high pressure is the one that has a really tiny opening and it doesn't take much to clog it. When it does get clogged the machine will fairly quickly over heat and then it activates a shut down sensor at around 240 degrees. This sounds like what's happening to your machine. I don't know if you have a water softener, but that greatly helps with this problem. Still, 12 months is a long time not to descale which is fairly simple. That orifice can be taken out with an Allen wrench. Any cheap welder's tip cleaner can clean it out. You can also soak it a while in some CLR or white vinegar to remove scale. This is what the orifices look like.
View attachment 82329
Ok, so hubby has taken this one off and it is jam packed full of crap- should I get a new part? If so what are they called?
 
Last edited:

wandwizard

Randy Dockins
Premium VIP
Nov 12, 2008
8,174
3,006
113
Real Name
Randy Dockins
Business Location
United States
Ok, so hubby has taken this one off and it is jam packed full of crap- should I get a new part? If so what are they called?
I doubt you need a new one. I would put it in some CLR and let it soak. Make sure that tiny hole in the middle is nice and clean. Also, there should be a screen attached to the brass cap he took off. Make sure the screen is also clean. He will likely have to descale the machine if it's been 12 months. I always make sure my orifices are clean after I descale my machine in case some deposits get lodged in the orifice. It's a little intimidating the first time, but really not that hard. If you simply call Interlink, Jondon or where you bought the machine and tell them the machine you have they can get the part for you if you actually need one. I'm pretty sure some CLR will take care of it. I am still using the original orifices on my machine that's over 16 years old. The part is called a bypass orifice in case you need to order one.
 

JDARNOLD

Active Member
Jul 31, 2012
259
96
28
56
Real Name
Edward Arnold
Business Location
United States
If you have to get a new part I have the manual and can get the part number. If you clean the trash out then start the unit and flush out the manifold. Then put it back together. Now with the cap off hold a clipboard in front of the orfice and start the unit. It should have a sharp stream if not clean it again.
 
  • Like
Reactions: wandwizard

Latest posts