One prespray for everything? Is it possible?

wandwizard

Randy Dockins
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You don't have to be so serious about topic. I believe that title of the thread didn't imply exact science approach. No one here would like to attack wall to wall wool carpeting with 14 Ph product. We carry Haitian cotton, fine fabric shampoo, sponges, horse hair brushes and crapload of other thing for a reason. Why do you think that our chemical racks are holding up to 24 jugs and there are 10 more stashed on the van, not counting specialties, such power gel, protein spotter, red 1, stain 1, rust remover, naphta - all stain remover, color concealer, pog and lot more. It was more rhetorical question, just like this one: Can you stay alive by drinking only one kind of beer? I know, I can. But I like more than one. I tasted Presidente ,Stella, Urquel, Golden Pheasant, Wursteiner and at least 30 more, each beer touches my palate in different ways and gives me a different buzz. Just to make clear, I'm not an alcoholic, but I like change once in a while...
I had to put 2 chemical shelves in my van! One on each side. I keep some stuff I rarely use and store extra spray bottles, vacuum bags, spotters, B & D steamer, etc. on one with the stuff I mainly use on the other. If I didn't my van would be a total mess!:eek:
 
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wandwizard

Randy Dockins
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I’m going to buck the trend here and say no.

There was a recent article in I think clean fax, which discussed the issue of “charge” (cationic, anionic etc) on fibre, resoiling issues as a result of using detergents that weren’t compatible with the charge required to clean a particular fibre, etc.

IMO it’s nonsense to expect one detergent to clean every yarn type out there. The science doesn’t support it at all, nor does my experience.

Apart from charge pH and buffering of pH also have an impact. Wool and polyester are cleaned at a very different pH, which is why if you’ve ever stumbled across a wool polyester blend you’ll understand why it’s such a tragic coupling.

And all the above is related just to fibre. Soiling is wildly varied depending on how and where the carpet is used. Some prespray take a broad spectrum approach attempting to clean a wide variety of soils, some are very specific.
I tend to agree with you, but I did say I'm fine with continuing to keep something extra for naturals. I use the same products on natural upholstery fabrics as I do on most natural area rugs. On most occasions, I find natural rugs, particularly wool, to be very easy to clean. Cotton, not so much! It is primarily because of cotton that I began using a sea sponge and fabric shampoos which is something I never did for many years. Makes my job a whole lot easier and the outcome much better and the fabric dries much quicker. I wouldn't want to leave for a job w/o a good sponge, encap, and a fine fabric shampoo anymore. Those will stay on my shelves until I retire in a few years.
 

AZHome&Carpet

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I tend to agree with you, but I did say I'm fine with continuing to keep something extra for naturals. I use the same products on natural upholstery fabrics as I do on most natural area rugs. On most occasions, I find natural rugs, particularly wool, to be very easy to clean. Cotton, not so much! It is primarily because of cotton that I began using a sea sponge and fabric shampoos which is something I never did for many years. Makes my job a whole lot easier and the outcome much better and the fabric dries much quicker. I wouldn't want to leave for a job w/o a good sponge, encap, and a fine fabric shampoo anymore. Those will stay on my shelves until I retire in a few years.
What fabric shampoo are you using on cotton? I learned a lot about cleaning with a sponge. But are you using like a dry foam and sponge?
 

wandwizard

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What fabric shampoo are you using on cotton? I learned a lot about cleaning with a sponge. But are you using like a dry foam and sponge?
The difference between shampooing and using dry foam is really with shampooing your wetting the sponge and applying it moderately to the entire fabric. With dry foam, you're using only the foam and avoiding wetting the fabric out and it will dry very fast. I would only use that method on something super delicate where getting it a little wet could harm it. Most of the stuff I do is shampooing with either an encap or fine fabric shampoo. I find in some cases you can use both towels to extract as well as your machine. Sometimes dry vacuum only, but normally I extract with clear water. The sponge counteracts the absorption of moisture into the fabric as your applying your shampoo to some extent at least.

Right now I have Prochem Fine Fabric Cotton shampoo, but I also have used Matrix Radiant and really like it for this type of work. For simple upholstery, I normally use something like Matrix Accomplish as a pre-spray for both upholstery and area rugs as it's safe for naturals. It can be boosted with citrus if needed for oily soils. I also think it works fairly well. I doubt I'll be buying anymore of the Prochem. The Radiant has a much higher dilution ratio and works very well IMHO. You can always add some CSR (sodium metabisulfite) to it if you think you really need it. Most often you won't.

 
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AZHome&Carpet

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The difference between shampooing and using dry foam is really with shampooing your wetting the sponge and applying it moderately to the entire fabric. With dry foam, you're using only the foam and avoiding wetting the fabric out and it will dry very fast. I would only use that method on something super delicate where getting it a little wet could harm it. Most of the stuff I do is shampooing with either an encap or fine fabric shampoo. I find in some cases you can use both towels to extract as well as your machine. Sometimes dry vacuum only, but normally I extract with clear water. The sponge counteracts the absorption of moisture into the fabric as your applying your shampoo to some extent at least.

Right now I have Prochem Fine Fabric Cotton shampoo, but I also have used Matrix Radiant and really like it for this type of work. For simple upholstery, I normally use something like Matrix Accomplish as a pre-spray for both upholstery and area rugs as it's safe for naturals. It can be boosted with citrus if needed for oily soils. I also think it works fairly well. I doubt I'll be buying anymore of the Prochem. The Radiant has a much higher dilution ratio and works very well IMHO. You can always add some CSR (sodium metabisulfite) to it if you think you really need it. Most often you won't.

Really appreciated that reply. Helped a lot and was exactly what I was looking for. Thanks for typing that out so clearly.
 
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wandwizard

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Really appreciated that reply. Helped a lot and was exactly what I was looking for. Thanks for typing that out so clearly.
Thank Bill Yeadon. I never understood the distinction either until he cleared it up for me. There is a fine example of dry foam cleaning near the bottom of the page for the Radiant shampoo. Worth a watch for sure.
 
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AZHome&Carpet

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Scott W taught us dry foam cleaning using a rug, and a screen. But I’ve read a lot about shampoo. I see some people use that word in a ton of different ways. But this way makes sense. Dry foam your dead on, we used the sponge but just foam. Never really got the sponge wet.
 
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AZHome&Carpet

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Sometime in 2019 I want to go out and do a bunch of hands on upholstery cleaning with Doug Heifernan. I’ve got the most basic parts down, but it’s a area I need formal training on still.
 

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I had to put 2 chemical shelves in my van! One on each side. I keep some stuff I rarely use and store extra spray bottles, vacuum bags, spotters, B & D steamer, etc. on one with the stuff I mainly use on the other. If I didn't my van would be a total mess!:eek:
I'm looking forward to replace old fresh water tank (65 gal) for a 100 gal. just because I'll gain space for more chemistry. It's always challenging to keep van clean and organized. I like to have a back up tools on board, so between carpet wands, upholstery tools, tile spinner and corner tile wand, spot lifters, spare cuffs, barb connectors, QD's all corners of the van are filled. Thankfully, there is a step on the passengers side and space behind seats. Most annoying are small spotters. I try to keep all of them in one spot and support it with 1 gal jugs tightly, but after a while I have to reorganize it again. All it takes is sometimes one ride. Oh, I forgot, there are also 4 air movers, 2 of them between front seats. Powr-flite hybrids are fortunately no bulky and only half weight of snail movers. I got to have a water on board, only 2-3 of my commercial locations have easily accessible water and I use it only when whether permits. I like it though, soft water...
 
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wandwizard

Randy Dockins
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I'm looking forward to replace old fresh water tank (65 gal) for a 100 gal. just because I'll gain space for more chemistry. It's always challenging to keep van clean and organized. I like to have a back up tools on board, so between carpet wands, upholstery tools, tile spinner and corner tile wand, spot lifters, spare cuffs, barb connectors, QD's all corners of the van are filled. Thankfully, there is a step on the passengers side and space behind seats. Most annoying are small spotters. I try to keep all of them in one spot and support it with 1 gal jugs tightly, but after a while I have to reorganize it again. All it takes is sometimes one ride. Oh, I forgot, there are also 4 air movers, 2 of them between front seats. Powr-flite hybrids are fortunately no bulky and only half weight of snail movers. I got to have a water on board, only 2-3 of my commercial locations have easily accessible water and I use it only when whether permits. I like it though, soft water...
If I didn't have the Hydramaster sub-mount 85 gallon tank I'd be up a creek w/o a paddle for sure. I only wished it took a little less floor space up. I don't think I could work well with a 65 or even a 70 gallon. I push the limits of my 85 sometimes. I do many jobs that hooking up for water is either a big pain or just not possible at all.
 
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