Olefin Berber - what's your secret with this

Jan 20, 2020
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Benji Zimmerman
I just did a three bedroom house with staircase and the carpets were fairly old olefin berber. I used E-steam Suspend Free Prespray, and Prochem all fibre rinse. Used light agitation (Host T6 as CRB) and plenty of dwell. I found I really had to slow down my rinsing and often double rinse before 3 or 4 dry passes. It seemed like the dirt and soil was really sticking to the carpet. How could I improve my process or chemistry to make this a quicker job? I was thinking of using e-steam attack but I couldn't find my measuring scoop, so I used suspend free as directed. Job took 4.5 hours including walk-through, pre-vac, prespray, agitation and extraction using a truckmount. Need to get faster and better - too much work and the results weren't quite as miraculous as I had hoped.
 

wandwizard

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Olefin is an oil loving fiber and it holds on to it tenaciously. Any kind of oil will absorb itself into the fiber making it impossible to remove or at least extremely difficult. There's a number of things you can do, but number one is use the right prespray or boost the presrpay you already use with a good solvent booster. I actually find they normally clean up pretty well unless there are heavy oily soils and that's when the booster is especially needed or a prespray that does a good job of breaking down the oily soils and suspending them. I also find it's pretty much useless to use a rinse on olefin. Unless I think there's a residue problem I leave it off for them. So, get a good prespray that is olefin specific or boost the one you already use.

I use a rotovac XL if they're really trashed, but I find most of them clean up well with a wand. A severely trashed olefin berber that's been let go for years may take some more aggressive agitation like a 175 with a pad or brush. I have a pad driver with my Rotovac that I use very occasionally on super bad soiling issues with either a red pad or an encap pad. If I'm doing what I think is a normally soiled Olefin I may not use booster, but I've found this more than anything else makes those jobs far faster, easier, and more effective. If I think that booster will make it so I can do the job easier and quicker it is getting used.
 
Jan 20, 2020
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f they're really trashed, but I find most of them clean up well with a wand. A severely trashed olefin berber that's been let go for years may take some more aggressive agitation like a 175 with a pad or brush. I have a pad driver with my Rotovac that I use very occasionally on super bad soiling issues with either a red pad or an encap pad. If I'm doing what I think is a normally soiled Olefin I may not use booster, but I've found this more than anything else makes those jobs far faster, easier, and more effective. If I think that booster will make it so I can do the job easier and quicker it is

Do you think E-steam Attack (good for grease cutting as it has d-limouline) and slightly smaller add of Boost All would work well? What's your go-to solvent booster?
 

wandwizard

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Do you think E-steam Attack (good for grease cutting as it has d-limouline) and slightly smaller add of Boost All would work well? What's your go-to solvent booster?
I don't know anything about the E-steam Attack although I've heard of it. I've used several solvent boosters that worked well, mostly citrus based and 1 soy based. It doesn't take a lot of it so 1 gallon usually goes a long way with me. My supplier is https://shop.truckmountforums.com mainly. I've used Hydramster Grease Break and Matrix Citrusforce, and Chemspec Biosolve. I can't see a clear winner with any of them, but I do like the smell of the Matrix by far the best and customers love it too. Smells like fresh squeezed oranges and it is very effective with grease and oil. I've used a little of Harvard G-Force. It does work, but maybe not quite as well as the others. I've only used 2 gallons of it so take that for what it's worth. It has virtually no scent. There are also presprays that do well on olefins and polyesters. I just prefer to boost mine as needed. You'll have to decide that one for yourself. I've cleaned some of the most trashed olefin berbers you can imagine and got them looking great. Normal cleaning you shouldn't need a booster with the right prespray.
 

Hacky-sack

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Two issues with Olefin is popping ph enough where oily soils get suspended and LEAVING carpet in a high ph state.

I like a high ph pre treat that is followed by a LOW ph rinse.

Best of both worlds.

High ph gets oil emulsion and low , thorough ph rinse means you minimize browning

For good measure, drop a few air movers to induce potential browning so you can correct before you leave
 

Ed Cruz

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Just order some Matrix Olefin prespray and boost it with Citrusforce if it’s bad.......Screw the CRB. Put a red pad on a 175 and it will sheer off whatever is on those fibers....a wand is all I ever needed to flush a Synthetic Berber or any Berber for that matter. Olefin is basically plastic so don’t go any higher in pressure than 250-300 unless it’s coated with a heavy grease. You can throw a bonnet on said buffer and remove more soil and moisture and that will help you if there’s impacted soil or spills in the backing or pad.
 

rob allen

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Black Label, boost with 2-4oz Pro's Grade citrus solve if nasty, lots dry strokes, an air mover and post bonnet. Never fails.
 
Jan 20, 2020
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Benji Zimmerman
Great tips guys. Love this forum. As a matter of fact both the property owner and his new tenant were thrilled with the results. I'll try and be just a little bit better next time. Looking into getting an oreck orbitor to post bonnet and encap stairs - and post encap wickback if I notice it before I'm packed up. Stairs so far have been my nemesis (did mostly commercial as a helper 10 years ago.... now I got a single truck operation - it's harder then I remember). Need a better stair tool.
 
Jan 20, 2020
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Benji Zimmerman
two questions.

1. what brushes did you use on the HOST machine?
2. what was the heat and pressure set at on the TM?

1. Using brown brushes for now. Going to be added zebra brushes for tougher carpet soon
2. Heat stays at around 210 F and I keep pressure at around 300-350 psi using an oldschool Prochem Quad with no glide. Got a cleanco 2 jet that I just put a glide on. Going to try it on saturday
 
Jan 20, 2020
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Benji Zimmerman
h gets oil emulsion and low , thorough ph rinse means you minimize browning

For good measure, drop a few air movers to induce potential browning so you can correct before you leave

I use Prochem all fibre rinse on most jobs. Set the GPH on my chem metering between 2 and 3. If it's not coming up I hit it again, slow down a bit and do one dry pass after a cleaning pass and then do double triangles for 2nd and 3rd dry passes before I do the next chunk. My dry times are really good thus far.
 

rob allen

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I use Prochem all fibre rinse on most jobs. Set the GPH on my chem metering between 2 and 3. If it's not coming up I hit it again, slow down a bit and do one dry pass after a cleaning pass and then do double triangles for 2nd and 3rd dry passes before I do the next chunk. My dry times are really good thus far.
The only problem with AFR is once it hits the carpet the cleaning stops. This is why we prefer a neutral or a 10ph rinse thats "unbuffered".
 

mrotto

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1. Using brown brushes for now. Going to be added zebra brushes for tougher carpet soon
brown brushes are for wool, wont do anything for berber. And agitation is key to berber so thats your main problem here.

Get zebra for residential. you may need white on some plush but very rarely need brown

Then later on, upgrade to a Brush Pro. Heavier and RPM is faster.