How much are you spraying down and how much are you recovering?
I am guessing you are not picking up much.
I am guessing you are not picking up much.
New guy needs help please....
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Rick Imby
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When putting down water and prespray with a hydroforce it is really easy to overwet.
The prespray will break the surface tension of the water allowing it to penetrate the dirt fiber bond (very good) and also help it to penetrate to the bottom of the carpet (not good).
The other advantage to a 175 is post padding will pick up a lot of that dirt and a lot of excess water. Once you get water into the carpet backing, it will take a long time to dry. And with water in the backing you are quite likely to get wicking.
The prespray will break the surface tension of the water allowing it to penetrate the dirt fiber bond (very good) and also help it to penetrate to the bottom of the carpet (not good).
The other advantage to a 175 is post padding will pick up a lot of that dirt and a lot of excess water. Once you get water into the carpet backing, it will take a long time to dry. And with water in the backing you are quite likely to get wicking.
Rick Imby
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One of the advantages of a Pump up Sprayer with a Porty is you will not put nearly as much water/chemical down as a hydroforce. Yes they are a pain.
Rick your right about pump up sprayers providing perhaps more control on how much one puts down prespraying carpet. One thing I would
like to point out is that if you are using a rinsing agent that is neutral or higher on ph you only need to prespray traffic lanes. Doing it
that way gets the preconditioning the dirtiest carpet fibers and avoids putting prespray on carpet that doesn't even need it. If one does us
a Hydroforce with a portable they must be more careful about how much they put down. But at the same time you don't want it to dry before
you extract it. One learns all this with experience as most of you already know. With portables we have to be more creative in order to get
the sort of results we wish to provide our customers. I also believe even warm water is much better than cold water. I have cleaned with
cold,warm and very hot and all can done but heat is nice.
Heat is just as important with tile as carpets.. If you try to specialize using what you have Upholstery would be the way to go and heres why..Thanks for both your replies and ideas, i will try the fels. I did use dry strokes but like i said the suction seemed weak to me. All new equipment including wand so i am pretty sure no obstructions, good suction at vac hose end but not at end of wand, i will check again. Any special way to check a wand for obstructions or just try to shine a light down the tube and look? The reason i raked and used CRB machine was to aggitate the prespray into the carpet like alot of people said on this forum helps. Not too late to quit - like i said starting part time - but if every job has results like this one holy cow i will die! Maybe just specialize in tile.
- Upholstery cleans better with low water flow psi & gpm
- I charge same for 1 seat as I do for a room of carpets ($25 bare min - $40) residential
- Your porty can clean a sectional on one fill (which eliminates Time consuming bucket & hose management)more $ per hour
- Less Competition, Most guys do it all, some guys only do tile OR carpet.. few specialize in UPH
- Easy commercial accounts; many big office buildings have their own floor machines and carpet/Tile cleaning is built into each offices rent however theyre on their own for chairs. My office chair price is $8 ea and most offices have 8-30 chairs - some have hundreds. Management is much more likely to choose a specialist than me and I have several accounts for every 6 months & yearly.
- Since you are working part time, commercial work may be easier to schedule for you since they often want it done after hours.
when i started with a porty (500psi heated (2) 2 stages) I also used a rotovac. Biobreak w Citrus, Liquid 90, OSR and matrix TLC are your best friends... Pros choice natural fiber, last step and extream for UPH. Also get 2 of the mini shop vac blowers from sears for @ $50 ea (you dont need $200-400 fans) and when you leap frog those 7lb, 500cfm fans right behind you the surfaces will dry much faster.
Whatever you do take the classes... for the most part theyre a joke- but the few things you learn will most likely save you from your own ignorance. hope this helps
How did it turn out?
-neutral rinsing agent
-agitation over heat if you have none
-depending on type of dirt (grease, dirt, oil) use corresponding prespray (enzymes, up to 14 PH alkaline, citrus)
-traffic pattern is called distortion in your/our business, is permanent
- overwetting shouldn't be issue as psi does not stay constant on portable. ( will not penetrate pad)
Please dont use equipment until you know what your doing - will just burn some senior citizen & harder to get them to trust us.
- good luck man!
-neutral rinsing agent
-agitation over heat if you have none
-depending on type of dirt (grease, dirt, oil) use corresponding prespray (enzymes, up to 14 PH alkaline, citrus)
-traffic pattern is called distortion in your/our business, is permanent
- overwetting shouldn't be issue as psi does not stay constant on portable. ( will not penetrate pad)
Please dont use equipment until you know what your doing - will just burn some senior citizen & harder to get them to trust us.
- good luck man!
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Get a crb
Get a crb
Get a crb
Oh and one other thing
Get a crb
I have a sebo and a power flit
Works great with a truckmount or portable
Get a crb
Get a crb
Oh and one other thing
Get a crb
I have a sebo and a power flit
Works great with a truckmount or portable
longkenn
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ON a good day you get 120 at the sink and 90 or so at the wand, especially if you have a longer hose run. Every 18 degrees you gain in heat will about double the cleaning power. How long of a dwell time did you give it? I try to give the chemicals about 15 to 30 minutes to work before attempting to extract. Try some other chemicals. If you have an Interlink Supply near you then go get some chemicals from them and try them. I would suggest Bio-Break.
Hi I think the machine is not the problem. Check the wand for blockigh. The prespray is good I think the problem is wand tecneek and elbow grease. Tri to setup a ride along whif a good carpet cleaner in the area and learn from him. We use portabels and thif grade resolds.
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The vacuum on a gauge on the 25 ft 1.5 " hose wil read atlease 11 hg and thif the wand close on the carpet 9 Hg.
I use a pump sprayer myself I think its easier to regulate my output
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Let us not forget what we have learned through the " IICRC " if you follow the " TACT " method you shouldn't have any of these problems! Tact = Temperature, agititation, chemical, and time!
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Tile is no easier than carpet my friend. You get some easy and you get some really hard ones. Everything falls into place with experience, good equipment and chemicals. Take an IICRC carpet cleaning class.Thanks for both your replies and ideas, i will try the fels. I did use dry strokes but like i said the suction seemed weak to me. All new equipment including wand so i am pretty sure no obstructions, good suction at vac hose end but not at end of wand, i will check again. Any special way to check a wand for obstructions or just try to shine a light down the tube and look? The reason i raked and used CRB machine was to aggitate the prespray into the carpet like alot of people said on this forum helps. Not too late to quit - like i said starting part time - but if every job has results like this one holy cow i will die! Maybe just specialize in tile.
As noted before how much solution are you putting out of the wand? Then how much is in the waste tank? Make sure the dump valve is not open on the waste tank. Also check the cupplings on the vac hose and make sure they are snug.
Of course I agree. However sometimes because of our circumstances one of more of these qualities
may be lacking. For instance with a portable heat will likely be lower than a truckmount. Or perhaps
we don't have equipment for agitation etc... In such cases for instance we may increase the time when
applying our prespray. Or perhaps use a higher ph prespray. We may cautiously use a higher
ph rinsing agent. (if we are using high ph products for both prespray and rinsing agent then after
rinsing we may use an acidic product like Prochem All Fiber Rinse or Brdgepoint Fab set as a post spray .
It only requires a misting of acidic rinsing agents to produce the final results we desire.A clean carpet with
little residue on carpets cleaned.
. Nothing beats have all of the TIME in our efforts and we
probably should work toward having equipment and chemicals to reach that goal. In the beginning
though we use what we have. For instance a good portable extractor using pump up sprayers with
high quality chemicals such as preconitioners,spotters rinsing agents etc.. will usually be sufficient for most jobs.
Well said and I definitely agree! I'm only 3 years in as far as carpet cleaning goes but I'm learning as much as I can, always ready to try something new or better! Your insight is appreciated !
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Hello,
New to the business, trying to start up part time and hopfully make it full time, but have been reading on forum for about a month now and here is my first story.
Bought a Master Blend Masterforce 1200 psi portable with no heat so i can do both carpets and tile.
Tried to clean my first room yesterday at home, bedroom that hasn't been cleaned in a while, has a definate dirty traffic area and some stains not sure exactly what they are from.
Here is what i did:
1. Prespray (Steambrite kryptonite) with hydroforce injection sprayer the entire room.
2. Preaggitate with rake and also used a small "brush pro" type unit that is used for dry cleaning.
3. HWE (hot water from faucet no heater) using a wand.
4. In my opinion, results were terrible, the traffic areas didn't come clean at all and the spots didn't budge.
5. Tried another prespray powder (Steambrite Powerhouse) mixed and applied same process.
6. HWE again, not much better.
7. By this time carpet is soaked - put fan down and ran for some time - still this morning carpet is damp. Definately overwet.
8. Portable has 1 - 2stage and 1 - 3stage vac motors - suction with hand over 25' hose end appears good, but then when i checked at bottom of wand it was hardly anything.
Very disappointing first time try. I was expecting to put down prespray aggitate then HWE and at least the traffic lanes come clean. I thought i would have to work on the spots with something else. They have been there for a couple years so don't know if they are set in or not. When i used a spotter for ink they did lighten up but didn't come out all the way.
Have a few pics. Not sure what kind of carpet it is, about 15 years old, i am guessing nylon but not sure.
And with all that being said any guidance would be greatly appreciated. My thought is i should try a different prespray, actually have some Matrix Grand Slam on the way and was going to also try TMF preload.
Thanks everyone for any assitance you can provide.
Tom
WHITE CARPETS MY FAVORITE WELL ALL YOU NEED HERE IS SOME PRO-CHEM RENOVATE ITS DESIGNED FOR SOOT REMOVAL AND AIR FILTRATION O AND GET RID OF THE HYDO-FORCE THAT IS YOUR PROBLEM INCONSISTENT FLOW OF CLEANING SOLUTION THEY ARE A WASTE OF CHEMICAL AND OVER WET CARPETS MIX 6 OZ RENOVATE TO 2 GALLON SPRAYER 2 OZ OXY-BOOST PRE-MIX THAN ADD TO PRE-SPRAY IT IS A POWDER 1 OZ FINE FABRIC SHAMPOO MIX WELL SPRAY ON TRAFFIC AREA AND SCRUB WITH BRUSH RINSE WITH PRO-CHEM FIBER RINSE IT LEAVES CARPETS SOFT AND RESIDUE FREE 4 FUNDAMENTALS T.A.C.T TEMPERATURE AGITATION CHEMICAL TIME TAKE AWAY FROM ONE YOU MUST ADD MORE TO ANOTHER THE CARPET IS REAL DIRTY YOU MIGHT WANT TO USE YOU HAND TOOL FOR THE TRAFFIC AREA SPRAY SCRUB RINSE YOU WILL HAVE TO SPRAY CARPET WITH BROWN OUT CAUSE YOU LEFT TO MUCH WATER IN CARPET AND IT CROCKED UP FROM PRIMARY BACKING SPRAY BROWN OUT THAN RAKE IT WICKING CAN ALSO BE AVOIDED BY TAKING PAPER TOWEL AND FIRMLY PLACE ON CARPET IF IT COMES UP WET YOUR NOT DONE DRY PASS TILL PAPER TOWEL IS DRY INVEST IN TURBO DRYER RUN PUMP NO HIGHER THAN 150 PSI OVER-WETTING IS YOUR WORST ENEMY AGITATION IS YOUR FRIEND! DON T BELIEVE ME ABOUT HYDO FORCE SEE FOR YOUR SELF THE RESULTS WILL SHOCK YOU! EVEN WITH PIN OUT THE RATIO IS INCORRECT
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Lots of good advice here for you and I think it's great that you are setting up a ride along with an experienced carpet cleaner. I am in the process of starting my own carpet cleaning business; researching equipment, researching methods, researching chemicals. But the key wor is researching..learning. I'm always watching YouTube videos and reading posts on here and other places to learn before I choose my plan of action. I am going to take a IICRC course in November and I'm also going to purchase one of the TMF Academy packages before I get going. You could also look into the ride along dvd that TMF has. I have been working for a cc company for about 4 months now and that has been a big help. So all of these things are my advice to you. But keep going, you are doing the right thing by posting here and not giving up.
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