Nautilus MXE-500AP 8.4 motors

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Oops. I didn't add text. Looks like glue is letting go and vacs are pulling gasket in. Not the first. Someone else had this on a different machine. I always thought gasket is applied to motor. Guess it wouldn't really matter. Next time I change mine I'm going to apply my own adhesive.


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Lol thats what i always thought, i applied the sticky side to the motor when i fixed it...ill test it tommorow

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That looks like a nice machine there Matthew! how do you like the 8.4 motors?
When it was working with both on in parallel its great, leaves the carpet barely damp. When i get it working properly i will do a tissue test video. Definitely the best portable i have ever used, IMO as close to truckmount performance as you can get in a portable. Ive used sandia sniper both dual 2 stage and dual 3 stage, the newer ninja with 2 3 stage, ninja classic, the older mytee portables, and about 6 different truckmounts

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Fedri

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This had to be part of the problem causing the motor to rev up to full power the whole time thus overheating and cutting itself off. As stated in the begining i bought this used and it was thia way when i got it.
7a44ceece14fcbc64c7cc44a4f2dd39e.jpg


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I had this on both of my 6.6 vac motors on my Goliath, I still need to check my other 2 vacs.
 

Jan Sullins

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I think you found the cause of motor overheating. Jim Morrow was one of the first people I know who used
8.4 2 stage vacuum motors out in the field. He did have one motor that would occasionally overheat. He replaced it
and later he sent it to me. I believe the problem with this particular motor is a faulty thermal switch. The motor still
runs like new and so far I have not got it to overheat. I am pretty sure that Lamb Ametek has corrected any problems
with the 8.4 and 6.6 vacuum motors overheating. Cross-American has been using these 6.6 and 8.4 series motors
for many years now and has had excellent service life with them. Better than any other vacuum motors he ever used in
his manufacturing high performance extractors/ ETMs.
 

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I think you found the cause of motor overheating. Jim Morrow was one of the first people I know who used
8.4 2 stage vacuum motors out in the field. He did have one motor that would occasionally overheat. He replaced it
and later he sent it to me. I believe the problem with this particular motor is a faulty thermal switch. The motor still
runs like new and so far I have not got it to overheat. I am pretty sure that Lamb Ametek has corrected any problems
with the 8.4 and 6.6 vacuum motors overheating. Cross-American has been using these 6.6 and 8.4 series motors
for many years now and has had excellent service life with them. Better than any other vacuum motors he ever used in
his manufacturing high performance extractors/ ETMs.
No its still overheating...is the thermal switch in the motor?

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Fedri

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I had this on both of my 6.6 vac motors on my Goliath, I still need to check my other 2 vacs.
Buy I have never noticed any overheating, just lack of power, right now it is still not 100% but very close. Day one I had it working at 215 lift with all 4 cords, currently it reads at 180 lift. I still need to check the other 2...
 

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Buy I have never noticed any overheating, just lack of power, right now it is still not 100% but very close. Day one I had it working at 215 lift with all 4 cords, currently it reads at 180 lift. I still need to check the other 2...
Maybe you have something clogged or your motors just starting to wear. How long have you had the motors or hours?

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Jan Sullins

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No its still overheating...is the thermal switch in the motor?

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Yes the thermal switch is in the motor. Not sure I would run these motors in series. These motors provide 673 air watts
each motor. Having hot air going into the air inlet of the other may be a little much. Since yours are running in parallel now
I am not sure why it is giving you problems but may very well be a bad thermal switch. Later I will take a look at mine
and see if I can't identify where it is. Jim Morrow probably knows .
 

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Yes the thermal switch is in the motor. Not sure I would run these motors in series. These motors provide 673 air watts
each motor. Having hot air going into the air inlet of the other may be a little much. Since yours are running in parallel now
I am not sure why it is giving you problems but may very well be a bad thermal switch. Later I will take a look at mine
and see if I can't identify where it is. Jim Morrow probably knows .
One will cut off first and then 5 mins later the second one will. I need to test it with the inline filter, when i used it, they ran for hours.

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Fedri

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Maybe you have something clogged or your motors just starting to wear. How long have you had the motors or hours?

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It is less than a month old, what I am saying is that the gaskets were also folded like yours and the vac motors were loosing air and I was getting poor performance, so I had the same issues on my vac motors and there were no heating on my 6.6s, maybe something else is going on on your vac motor.
 

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It is less than a month old, what I am saying is that the gaskets were also folded like yours and the vac motors were loosing air and I was getting poor performance, so I had the same issues on my vac motors and there were no heating on my 6.6s, maybe something else is going on on your vac motor.
The thermal switch maybe like Jan said. I can feel the side of the machine is pretty hot but the motors arent so hot that i cant put my hand on it. I may just try to replace the motors.

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Jimsteam

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One will cut off first and then 5 mins later the second one will. I need to test it with the inline filter, when i used it, they ran for hours.

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The thermal switch (slow burn fuse look alike) is inside the motor. Need to carefully split the cans for access. Must carefuly "peen" the cans together for reassembly. You can see the crimps afound the cans.
If one shuts off then the other I suspect something common like a temperture control switch within the motor housing or Loose connections
Test run an hour or 2 with the shell open which provides plenty of venilation then again with it shut.
Unless the machine was totally abused , I believe the motors are fine and the Thermal or another safey feature is doing its job.Do youi have a schematic/parts list ?
Those motors are crammed inside that shell with very little breathing room.
Since that 1st motor Jan mentioned . I have put 1500 hours on a pair of 8.4s hooked up to another pair of 5.7s (series) . Close to 400 on my 2nd set of 8.4s..
Good Luck !
 

Total Cleaning Service

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The thermal switch (slow burn fuse look alike) is inside the motor. Need to carefully split the cans for access. Must carefuly "peen" the cans together for reassembly. You can see the crimps afound the cans.
If one shuts off then the other I suspect something common like a temperture control switch within the motor housing or Loose connections
Test run an hour or 2 with the shell open which provides plenty of venilation then again with it shut.
Unless the machine was totally abused , I believe the motors are fine and the Thermal or another safey feature is doing its job.Do youi have a schematic/parts list ?
Those motors are crammed inside that shell with very little breathing room.
Since that 1st motor Jan mentioned . I have put 1500 hours on a pair of 8.4s hooked up to another pair of 5.7s (series) . Close to 400 on my 2nd set of 8.4s..
Good Luck !
Thanks for the input and im going to dl the schematic now...ill share if i find something

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goomer

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There are 8.4's WITH the thermal shut-off and 8.4's Without a thermal shut-off?

I have always been leery about using fans as opposed to open vent holes.

I don't have experience with the 8.4's, but when two 5.7's are running inside a compartment, the top cooling fans on the vacs create a pretty strong air current of their own with it's own direction.

How can one be sure that their fan location does not cause it to wind up working against the airflow pastern of the fans themselves and possibly make things worse?

Maybe it makes no difference, but I always thought open vent holes would be better by offering more unrestricted ventilation.
 

goomer

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There are 8.4's WITH the thermal shut-off and 8.4's Without a thermal shut-off?

I have always been leery about using fans as opposed to open vent holes.

I don't have experience with the 8.4's, but when two 5.7's are running inside a compartment, the top cooling fans on the vacs create a pretty strong air current of their own with it's own direction.

How can one be sure that their fan location does not cause it to wind up working against the airflow pastern of the fans themselves and possibly make things worse?

Maybe it makes no difference, but I always thought open vent holes with only a wire guard would be better by offering more unrestricted ventilation.

120mm-fan-guard-finger-grill-chrome-metal-wire-ac-dc-4-computer-cpu-usa-seller-a4ba50437c627ecf6e6078955644523b.jpg
 

jtsunbrite

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There are 8.4's WITH the thermal shut-off and 8.4's Without a thermal shut-off?

I have always been leery about using fans as opposed to open vent holes.

I don't have experience with the 8.4's, but when two 5.7's are running inside a compartment, the top cooling fans on the vacs create a pretty strong air current of their own with it's own direction.

How can one be sure that their fan location does not cause it to wind up working against the airflow pastern of the fans themselves and possibly make things worse?

Maybe it makes no difference, but I always thought open vent holes with only a wire guard would be better by offering more unrestricted ventilation.

120mm-fan-guard-finger-grill-chrome-metal-wire-ac-dc-4-computer-cpu-usa-seller-a4ba50437c627ecf6e6078955644523b.jpg
I have vent holes in mine plus a case fan,,, I will look tomorrow and take pics
 
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