Mytee LX Vac Motors

TillertheJohn

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Anything shipped can have a janky connection. Check ALL wiring on the machine, look for brown areas on spade terminals and confirm 120v to each motor before crying. New doesn't mean perfect and I feel like if you follow connections from the cord to the switches, floats to the motors you will find the problem. Heat is the enemy and a loose connection will show its head in short order.

I wouldn't jump a bicycle that someone else put together, without checking every bolt first.... but that's just me.
FWIW, and as an appropriate reply to your^ post - my air hog is just shy of 2 years old. And, to be fair, im certain it has gotten a lot less usage than someone like you over that period due to being a new business.
 

JRH

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Im at the dealer and the one motor is bad as it no longer turns on. (Switch is good and the wire is getting power).

They also hear 'metal-on-metal' in the other motor which seems to be from moisture getting in there and causing corrosion/rust. So we will be replacing both vac motors today.
really ? it played Anvil :v
The only built in cut-off a motor has is overheat cutoff (thermal switch in motor )
Cutoff for high water level is in the waste tank ... either a float which rises and blocks the vacuum physically ... or an electronic float switch mounted high in the waste tank to cut vac power electrically .
Two years is about all i get from a vac generally , but some might get more /less .. Foam being sucked into the vacs wont help longevity , but 6.6 vacs are supposed to have more damp protection than most .
 
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TillertheJohn

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really ? it played Anvil :v
The only built in cut-off a motor has is overheat cutoff (thermal switch in motor )
Cutoff for high water level is in the waste tank ... either a float which rises and blocks the vacuum physically ... or an electronic float switch mounted high in the waste tank to cut vac power electrically .
Two years is about all i get from a vac generally , but some might get more /less .. Foam being sucked into the vacs wont help longevity , but 6.6 vacs are supposed to have more damp protection than most .
anvil?
 

Fedri

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Im at the dealer and the one motor is bad as it no longer turns on. (Switch is good and the wire is getting power).

They also hear 'metal-on-metal' in the other motor which seems to be from moisture getting in there and causing corrosion/rust. So we will be replacing both vac motors today.
How old are your vacs?
 

Fedri

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really ? it played Anvil :v
The only built in cut-off a motor has is overheat cutoff (thermal switch in motor )
Cutoff for high water level is in the waste tank ... either a float which rises and blocks the vacuum physically ... or an electronic float switch mounted high in the waste tank to cut vac power electrically .
Two years is about all i get from a vac generally , but some might get more /less .. Foam being sucked into the vacs wont help longevity , but 6.6 vacs are supposed to have more damp protection than most .
I average about 2 years as well with 5.7s, but this time my hp 3 stage 5.7s lasted 3 years, and they are still going with good lift and cfm.
 

Johnny Bravo

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I am assuming they will sell them to the mytee owners for vac or part replacement by asking the serial number for proof. Here in Canada, I have asked the closest mytee distributer to buy me the vacs or any parts, the guy asked me the serial number of my machine, and I thought that was weird, but now I know the reason.
You can use my serial number off my Mytee Air Hog LX if you want so you can buy some vacuum motors from Mytee.
 

DrummerTW

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I'm not knocking on mytee or rotovac in any way. But side by side the zx motors are at 10 hg and the lx is barely hitting 6 hg. Granted ones a single stage ones a 2 stage...but I cant see how these guys advertise the hg at 14-15 - and above...as of people arent really going to buy these and see the numbers just arent true...I've got two lxs and a zx and I'm barely getting 17-18 hg myself out of all 3...ans the reason they stopped selling these to the public is unfortunately because of builders like me who are testing the boundries of etms and they are not about to be upstaged by someone using their very own propriety vac motors and have someone like me start mass producing equipment with real specs that are as advertised
 
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TillertheJohn

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I average about 2 years as well with 5.7s, but this time my hp 3 stage 5.7s lasted 3 years, and they are still going with good lift and cfm.
Yeah my new motors I’m rocking(sucking) again !

I wonder if I figured out how and when to use defoamer earlier if I could have made them last longer.

I think that’s one drawback to air hog is small waste tank so foam can be an issue.
 

DrummerTW

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I use a half shot of citrusolv onost of my carpet jobs...its available from bridgepoint and it cuts the foam factor down dramatically...has a great scent and is an amazing booster as well...its not cheap...its $63 a gallon but a 1/2 oz will be good for a gal. In yr hydroforce
 
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Fedri

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Yeah my new motors I’m rocking(sucking) again !

I wonder if I figured out how and when to use defoamer earlier if I could have made them last longer.

I think that’s one drawback to air hog is small waste tank so foam can be an issue.
That is great to hear. Foam is always an issue. I have a small container that I carry in my back pocket that has a defoamer in it. I squirt some in the hose on every room, making sure free of foam. I use an inline filter for my auto dump, which will reduce cfm from time to time when I hit the foam.
 

TillertheJohn

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That is great to hear. Foam is always an issue. I have a small container that I carry in my back pocket that has a defoamer in it. I squirt some in the hose on every room, making sure free of foam. I use an inline filter for my auto dump, which will reduce cfm from time to time when I hit the foam.
Nice.

Im carrying a small container of defoamer with me too now. Took me 1.5yrs to figure out smh.

I think my new process will be to sprinkle some on the carpet before extracting and carry it with me to put in the hose as needed.

Did you mean inline filter between wand and extractor or an inline filter for auto dump (pump out) - not sure I understand??
 
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Fedri

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Nice.

Im carrying a small container of defoamer with me too now. Took me 1.5yrs to figure out smh.

I think my new process will be to sprinkle some on the carpet before extracting and carry it with me to put in the hose as needed.

Did you mean inline filter between wand and extractor or an inline filter for auto dump (pump out) - not sure I understand??
Yes, a filter between the wand and the machine. I use the tmf boss filter. I also have the wanders filter as a backup.
 

TillertheJohn

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Yes, a filter between the wand and the machine. I use the tmf boss filter. I also have the wanders filter as a backup.
Hey Ive thought about getting the wanders one as its more affordable, especially over the TMF boss filter.

In your opinion, does it provide noticeable improvement over the Mytee lint hog?

And how about the boss over wanders?

Thank you
 

Jim Davisson

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I'm not knocking on mytee or rotovac in any way. But side by side the zx motors are at 10 hg and the lx is barely hitting 6 hg. Granted ones a single stage ones a 2 stage...but I cant see how these guys advertise the hg at 14-15 - and above...as of people arent really going to buy these and see the numbers just arent true...I've got two lxs and a zx and I'm barely getting 17-18 hg myself out of all 3...ans the reason they stopped selling these to the public is unfortunately because of builders like me who are testing the boundries of etms and they are not about to be upstaged by someone using their very own propriety vac motors and have someone like me start mass producing equipment with real specs that are as advertised

If you ran 2 lx and a zx trailing you would have premium performance at 42ish peak amps. You have to run the peak cfm motors first and the peak lift motor last, to see the best performance.

Short hose runs would benefit from the zx trailing, long hose runs with 3 lx only is going to win on any day ending in Y.

Of course to take full advantage you need to have 2" from inside the motor compartment, through the waste tank, all the way to the wand with no leaks. Anything less is wasting power.

Either of the above will be on par with entry level TM's in the vacuum department up to 175' if executed properly and possibly farther.
 
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OxiFreshGuy

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My understanding is there is not a float switch for the Mytee Airhog. Even if there is, foam is your enemy as it won't activate the switch. Best practice is not to let it fill all the way up.
 

TillertheJohn

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My understanding is there is not a float switch for the Mytee Airhog. Even if there is, foam is your enemy as it won't activate the switch. Best practice is not to let it fill all the way up.
Yes thank you.

I was in the tank replacing the pump out screen filter surrounding it and I think I noticed a ball that looks like it could be a ball float that effectively blocks the suction from the motors so they aren't just eating water. Of course, foam is still going to cause damage if it gets in there.

picture in the manual shows it ....
 

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TillertheJohn

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funny the manual doesn't list this "vac stack filter/screen' in the exploded parts list...or am I missing it??

@Fedri @John LaBarbera

Know where to purchase this and if it is made to be replaced or taken off to be thoroughly cleaned?

Thank you
 

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