My heater is not working properly...help please

Welcome to our Community
Wanting to join the rest of our members? Feel free to sign up today.
Sign up

Gomer

Active Member
Sep 3, 2012
151
29
28
63
Real Name
Mike garza
#1
Iv got a Mytee hot Turbo and I hook up my equipment today, flip 2 switches on my heater and when I went to turn on the vac pump on my porty it sounded like the pump was struggling to work, kinda like bogging down and when I pull the trigger on the wand it would not spray or at best spray intermittently. So I disconnect the heater from my unit and try again, pull the trigger on the wand and everything was fine. Could the hose on my heater be blocked.
Any advice would be appreciated.
 

John LaBarbera

Preferred Vendor
Premium VIP
Sep 13, 2008
2,457
876
113
69
San Diego, Ca
www.mytee.com
Real Name
John LaBarbera
#2
Iv got a Mytee hot Turbo and I hook up my equipment today, flip 2 switches on my heater and when I went to turn on the vac pump on my porty it sounded like the pump was struggling to work, kinda like bogging down and when I pull the trigger on the wand it would not spray or at best spray intermittently. So I disconnect the heater from my unit and try again, pull the trigger on the wand and everything was fine. Could the hose on my heater be blocked.
Any advice would be appreciated.
No, everything is fine except you created a vapor lock in the heater. Next time turn on the pump spray water through the heater, then turn the heater on and you should be good to go.
 
Likes: LeeRoy

Gomer

Active Member
Sep 3, 2012
151
29
28
63
Real Name
Mike garza
#3
Ok so turn the pump switch on the porty first, pull the the wand trigger let it run then flip the switches on the heater.
Thx John for that quick reply !
 
Likes: Luky

John LaBarbera

Preferred Vendor
Premium VIP
Sep 13, 2008
2,457
876
113
69
San Diego, Ca
www.mytee.com
Real Name
John LaBarbera
#4
Ok so turn the pump switch on the porty first, pull the the wand trigger let it run then flip the switches on the heater.
Thx John for that quick reply !

Yes, that is right. If there is just a drop of water in the heater it will quickly turn to steam. Then it will vapor lock the water flow. So fill the heater with water first then turn on heater.
 
Likes: Jeffclinton73

Spiro

Premium VIP
Aug 29, 2012
5,651
1
38
www.babysoftclean.com
Real Name
Spiro Kalogeropoulos
#7
Found this post from almost 6 years ago. Just ran into something similar today, but not sure if it is the same vapor lock issue on our Hot Turbo. We had to disconnect the QD on the high pressure line from the wand to the heater while in the middle of a job, but then it was impossible to reattach it afterwards (even with depressing wand trigger, turning off the pump, etc). Seemed like there was extremely high pressure pushing back from inside the heater when trying to reconnect the line. Was this a vapor lock issue or something else? Do the Hot Turbo's have any way to relieve the internal pressure to avoid this from happening and allow us to reconnect hoses (or do we just try to depress the nipple inside the female QD on the heater with a screwdriver [and avoid getting seared of course])? Or is the only solution to not remove any lines going in or out of the heaters until you're finished with the job?

Also, at the end of a job, is it better to let the Hot Turbo just cool down on it's own or do we pump cold water through it with the wand to cool it down. I'm assuming that pumping cold water through it would create undue thermal expansion stress on the unit over time?

Thanks!
 
Last edited:
Dec 3, 2012
8,742
4,013
113
Pa
Real Name
Nick
Business Location
United States
#8
Found this post from almost 6 years ago. Just ran into something similar today, but not sure if it is the same vapor lock issue on our Hot Turbo. We had to disconnect the QD on the high pressure line from the wand to the heater while in the middle of a job, but then it was impossible to reattach it afterwards (even with depressing wand trigger, turning off the pump, etc). Seemed like there was extremely high pressure pushing back from inside the heater when trying to reconnect the line. Had to remove the Hot Turbo in order to finish the job with cold water. Was a vapor lock issue or something else? Do the Hot Turbo's have any way to relieve the internal pressure to avoid this from happening and allow us to reconnect hoses (or do we just try to depress the nipple inside the female QD on the heater with a screwdriver [and avoid getting seared of course])? Or is the only solution to not remove any lines going in or out of the heaters until you're finished with the job?

Also, at the end of a job, is it better to let the Hot Turbo just cool down on it's own or do we pump cold water through it with the wand to cool it down. I'm assuming that pumping cold water through it would create undue thermal expansion stress on the unit over time?

Thanks!
Ballvalve on your hose end. Close it, trigger tool to relieve valve pressure. Then you are free to disconnect and reconnect tools at will.
 

Spiro

Premium VIP
Aug 29, 2012
5,651
1
38
www.babysoftclean.com
Real Name
Spiro Kalogeropoulos
#10
Thanks for the quick reply. Yes, we have the ball valve on the high pressure hose at the wand. We typically close it, depress the wand, and that allows us to remove the QD from the wand easily and reconnect (since we have to go back and forth between the wand and hydroforce pre-sprayer during a job sometimes). The issue was at the heater. The high pressure line QD disconnected from the "OUT" QD on the Hot Turbo, but when we went to plug it back it in it was solid as a rock. Assuming this was from the internal pressure generated from the Hot Turbo while it was at MAX temp.

Is the key to just not disconnect high pressure lines from the heater while in the middle of a job (i.e. when heater is hot)? I saw a note in some of the other Mytee manuals about releasing pressure from portables with internal heaters that had vapor locked, and one of them was to depress the nipple on the female QD to release the pressure. I'm assuming this would also work on the Hot Turbo while at working temp/pressure?
 
Last edited:

John LaBarbera

Preferred Vendor
Premium VIP
Sep 13, 2008
2,457
876
113
69
San Diego, Ca
www.mytee.com
Real Name
John LaBarbera
#11
Thanks for the quick reply. Yes, we have the ball valve on the high pressure hose at the wand. We typically close it, depress the wand, and that allows us to remove the QD from the wand easily and reconnect (since we have to go back and forth between the wand and hydroforce pre-sprayer during a job sometimes). The issue was at the heater. The high pressure line QD disconnected from the "OUT" QD on the Hot Turbo, but when we went to plug it back it in it was solid as a rock. Assuming this was from the internal pressure generated from the Hot Turbo while it was at MAX temp.

Is the key to just not disconnect high pressure lines from the heater while in the middle of a job (i.e. when heater is hot)? I saw a note in some of the other Mytee manuals about releasing pressure from portables with internal heaters that had vapor locked, and one of them was to depress the nipple on the female QD to release the pressure. I'm assuming this would also work on the Hot Turbo while at working temp/pressure?
Can you put the ball valve at the outbound of the heater before the outbound QD? Not on the hose.
 

Spiro

Premium VIP
Aug 29, 2012
5,651
1
38
www.babysoftclean.com
Real Name
Spiro Kalogeropoulos
#12
I'll give that a try. I'm wondering whether the valve will be too hard to turn when the machine is at max temp/pressure. I'll give it a shot though. I'm assuming that valve will be very hot while is use so will need to turn valve with towel in hand.

Also, do I need to open the machine in order to remove that female QD? The QD goes right up to the plate of the box, so there is nothing behind the QD where I can put a second wrench to hold the stub and piping in place while trying to twist off the QD. I don't want to bend anything inside the box by just twisting the QD alone. Hope that made sense.

Thanks!
 
Likes: Luky

Spiro

Premium VIP
Aug 29, 2012
5,651
1
38
www.babysoftclean.com
Real Name
Spiro Kalogeropoulos
#13
That did the trick! Thanks John. Yes, had to open the box top using the four screws to properly remove the QD. Very easy mod. Thanks again.

Another quick question. The new water hog. Any limits on how long to leave the pump running with pumping water. I know these pumps sometimes don't like to just sit there without moving fluid. For example, if we need to take 5 or more minutes to move furniture in a room should we just go out and turn the pump off?

Thanks!
 

Luky

Premium VIP
Nov 29, 2013
1,080
482
83
59
Chicagoland
Real Name
Marian Lukacisin
Business Location
United States
#14
Thanks for the quick reply. Yes, we have the ball valve on the high pressure hose at the wand. We typically close it, depress the wand, and that allows us to remove the QD from the wand easily and reconnect (since we have to go back and forth between the wand and hydroforce pre-sprayer during a job sometimes). The issue was at the heater. The high pressure line QD disconnected from the "OUT" QD on the Hot Turbo, but when we went to plug it back it in it was solid as a rock. Assuming this was from the internal pressure generated from the Hot Turbo while it was at MAX temp.

Is the key to just not disconnect high pressure lines from the heater while in the middle of a job (i.e. when heater is hot)? I saw a note in some of the other Mytee manuals about releasing pressure from portables with internal heaters that had vapor locked, and one of them was to depress the nipple on the female QD to release the pressure. I'm assuming this would also work on the Hot Turbo while at working temp/pressure?
For that kind of issue is easy solution. I had that happened to me a few times also and than my supply gave me a kicker(tapper) in form of the key chain. You can put it inside of female QD on hot turbo and lightly tap it in. Pressurized water should squirt out through the hole. Use caution not to damage the nipple on QD....
 
Nov 9, 2018
4
0
1
38
North Bergen
Real Name
Poul
#15
Iv got a Mytee hot Turbo and I hook up my equipment today, flip 2 switches on my heater and when I went to turn on the vac pump on my porty it sounded like the pump was struggling to work, kinda like bogging down and when I pull the trigger on the wand it would not spray or at best spray intermittently. So I disconnect the heater from my unit and try again, pull the trigger on the wand and everything was fine. Could the hose on my heater be blocked.
Any advice would be appreciated.
I had the same problem!