Knowing your chemicals

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Oct 15, 2016
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Christopher
#1
I'm very new to the business with no experience in carpet cleaning before hand. My main concern is knowing what and how much chemical to use. How much prespray or soap to use? Or trying to remove coffee stains or red stains what chemicals I'm allowed to mix to make it stronger or how much I need to dilute?
Also is spraying with enzymes different than the pre spray?
I understand I have lots to learn and will need much practice on my own carpet.
Please any advice would be greatly appreciated.
 

Common janitor

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Ed Feil
#2
I'm very new to the business with no experience in carpet cleaning before hand. My main concern is knowing what and how much chemical to use. How much prespray or soap to use? Or trying to remove coffee stains or red stains what chemicals I'm allowed to mix to make it stronger or how much I need to dilute?
Also is spraying with enzymes different than the pre spray?
I understand I have lots to learn and will need much practice on my own carpet.
Please any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Go to the Jon Don website and click on education . Their complete IICRC manuals are there for carpet technician and upholstery tech as well . No cost and you'll learn much of what you need to know . As far as how much " soap" to use etc. ALL products will have use instructions on them to go by . Rob Allen ( owner of TMF ) also has videos available in the TMF store that could help you as well . Welcome to the forum !!
All the Best, Ed
 

1ST CHOICE CLEANING

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#3
Welcome to TMF! The good news is that you are on the forum and there is a ton of information here, starting off there will be a learning curve but the curve will get smaller as you read posts and ask questions here.

You will find that 100 different carpet cleaners use 100 differtent chemicals but for the most part there really isn't a huge difference.

Red stains are easy with a red stain remover such as Red Relief or Red Ready and a towel and iron. Other stains will need different treatments, there was just a contest thread on stain removal a few weeks ago that will probably be helpful for you.
 

Todd the Cleaner

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#4
Pretty much go by the directions on the labels when mixing chemicals up. A lot of people think if a little bit does a good job then more will do better but that just isn't the case.

I keep 3 main presprays on my truck. I use Bridgepoint's Bio Break on most of the carpets I clean. Bio Break is also an enzyme cleaner. On heavily soiled pyester carpets I use Pro's Choice Firestorm or if it's one that will just not come clean I'll switch to using Bridgepoint's Traffic Slam which is a poly/olefin cleaner. Traffic Slam has saved me on jobs where other presprays just wouldn't work.

Then there are the specialty spotter chemicals.

For red stains Or artificial dye stains I use Bridgepoint RedZone Ready. With red stain removers you need added heat by either using an iron and a towel or using a wallpaper steamer. Using the iron and towel you will want to put the iron on the towel for 20-30 seconds at a time. If you use a steamer you can set the steamer on the stain for 3-5 minutes and let it work on the stain while you continue cleaning in anther part of the room.

For coffee stains there are a couple different options. What I have found to work best is to prespray it and clean it like normal going over the stain a couple times to remove all the coffee and sugars that are in there. Depending on the carpet sometimes just cleaning it will remove the stain. Stains come out of polyester carpet much easier than nylon. If there is still a stain left after cleaning I apply Bridgepoint's StainZone which is an oxidizer. Apply the StainZone fairly heavily to the stain and walk away from it. Do not rinse after applying StsinZone. Oxidizers work over long periods of time and do not work instantly. The stain will still be there after you apply the StainZone but the stain will go away as the carpet dries. I always call the customer the next day to make sure the stain went away. 90% of the time it is gone, if there is any staining left then I stop by and just apply another dose of StainZone and that just about always takes care of it. Just go in and spray it on and walk away again, no need to set up hoses and try cleaning again. If after 2 attempts the stain is still there then it's permanent and the only other option for stain removal is to cut out the stain and do a patch.

StainZone is also good on any type of organic stain that regular cleaning will not remove.....spaghetti sauce & other food stains, wine stains, blood stains, diarrhea stains etc...

For rust stains get some rust stain remover and follow the directions on the label.

You will want to have a good gel solvent on hand for heavy grease & oil based stains that will not come out with regular cleaning. It also works on gum and oil based paint.

Rubbing alcohol works on removing water based paint. Soak the paint with alcohol and let it dwell for 5-10 minutes then start working the stain with a bone scraper applying more alcohol as needed.

Alcohol also removes magic marker real easily. You will want the alcohol in a spray bottle and set the nozzle on stream. Put the nozzle right on the marker stain and spray it hard. The marker stain will start to dissolve real quick. Have your wand or upholstery tool close by to flush it out right away. You may need to repeat the process a couple times.

For ball point ink and other ink stains I like Chemspec's Ink Exit.

Urine stains have several different methods of attack depending on how severe the urine contamination is and what the customer is willing to pay for. Baisicslly there are 3 different levels of ursine treatment..... a topical cleaning, a pad extraction where you flood the carpet and use a water claw, and the last option is to pull up the carpet, treat the sub floor, replace the padding, clean both sides of the carpet and re-install it. Here are a couple good threads that talk about urine treatment.

https://www.truckmountforums.com/threads/lets-talk-about-urine.86862/

https://www.truckmountforums.com/threads/water-clawing-pet-urine.90793/

There are other stains and spotters out there, the list is endless but what I've covered above will take care of the most common problems you will run into.
 
Oct 15, 2016
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Christopher
#5
Thank you for the support. I'll be practicing your techniques and ideas.
 

wandwizard

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#6
I'm very new to the business with no experience in carpet cleaning before hand. My main concern is knowing what and how much chemical to use. How much prespray or soap to use? Or trying to remove coffee stains or red stains what chemicals I'm allowed to mix to make it stronger or how much I need to dilute?
Also is spraying with enzymes different than the pre spray?
I understand I have lots to learn and will need much practice on my own carpet.
Please any advice would be greatly appreciated.
All presprays have directions on them for per gallon or for filling a Hydroforce. I don't recommend exceeding those directions. Often, you can actually use less. One thing I figured out years ago is that if a prespray does not work at it's recommended dilution it WILL NOT work by doubling it or tripling it. MORE IS NOT BETTER! Bad idea all the way around. Waste your chems big time and will likely cause a residue/ resoiling issue. Using proper cleaning techniques and even 1/2 way decent chems you can clean just about anything. There are boosters available that do help some presprays to either do a better job breaking up oily soils or may help remove stains better or brighten the fibers.

For stains I'd suggest getting a spotting kit. Pros Choice has a good one and so does Interlink Supply. Both should cover a wide variety of stains. Jondon has some good Matrix stain removers, but frankly, I'm not crazy about their spotting kit. They also carry most of the CTI Pros Choice line including their spotting kit. Most stain removers are already mixed, but some may be diluted. You'll have to learn that as you go.

Enzymes are simply a category of prespray. Some guys use them almost exclusively. There are several good ones on the market. I mainly use Klenz and Matrix Enzyme prespray, but don't use a lot of either. Both work very well though. What presprays you wind up using will largely be determined by what supplier you hook up with although you can easily order from any of them these days.
 
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rob allen

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#7
Great info above. You could also come to the TMF academy and catapult into success while observing, riding along with us and hands on school education.


Sent from my iPhone using TMF Forums
 
Oct 15, 2016
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Christopher
#8
So do presprays already have enzymes in them or are they added into a prespray?
 

Mike Krall

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Wow how cool is it to get advice from 5 heavy hitters for free?!?! I wish there was an investing forum like this around :)
 

rob allen

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#11
So do presprays already have enzymes in them or are they added into a prespray?
There are natural and synthetic enzymes. Heat and synergy play a part. So choose and use wisely


Sent from my iPhone using TMF Forums
 

Luky

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#12
Wow how cool is it to get advice from 5 heavy hitters for free?!?! I wish there was an investing forum like this around :)
C'mon Mike , I believe that you were proud of yourself to get things right done back than. You wouldn't even take it if you had it served on silver platter. This is more common now and I'm not talking about fellas, who have a inquisitive mind and want to compare results of their research with already proven methods presented here. I'm talking gimme, gimme...
 

1ST CHOICE CLEANING

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#13
Wow how cool is it to get advice from 5 heavy hitters for free?!?! I wish there was an investing forum like this around :)
I'll save you all the hassle, just send me your money and I'll figure out how to invest it;)
 

Mike Krall

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#14
C'mon Mike , I believe that you were proud of yourself to get things right done back than. You wouldn't even take it if you had it served on silver platter. This is more common now and I'm not talking about fellas, who have a inquisitive mind and want to compare results of their research with already proven methods presented here. I'm talking gimme, gimme...
Yeah, but it's a different world now Marian. I wasn't knocking anyone I really meant that it is cool to have experts at your fingertips willing to help. I think like you though you learn better figuring things out yourself.
 

Mike Krall

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#16
Wealthfront.com

I love tech, a service for anything imaginable.
I think I've heard Ferris talk about Wealthfront, not sure I've checked it out yet.

Have you read the Rich Dad Poor Dad stuff Jose? Very enlightening stuff!
 
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#17
I think I've heard Ferris talk about Wealthfront, not sure I've checked it out yet.

Have you read the Rich Dad Poor Dad stuff Jose? Very enlightening stuff!
I have but I was turned off by it a few years ago when I learned Robert Kiyosaki was being accused of being a scam artist by a lot of people who attended his seminars, then I kept digging and found a lot dirt on him, including him not being able to make a dollar until he actually started teaching others how to make a dollar, then his company just declared bankruptcy because he wasn't paying the proper royalties on the seminars. Nail on the coffin...

A lot of their teachings still apply though. Just can't find myself very motivated when I don't support the people behind it.
 

Mike Krall

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#18
I have but I was turned off by it a few years ago when I learned Robert Kiyosaki was being accused of being a scam artist by a lot of people who attended his seminars, then I kept digging and found a lot dirt on him, including him not being able to make a dollar until he actually started teaching others how to make a dollar, then his company just declared bankruptcy because he wasn't paying the proper royalties on the seminars. Nail on the coffin...

A lot of their teachings still apply though. Just can't find myself very motivated when I don't support the people behind it.
Oh I didn't know that. I thought it was a little odd he never identifies who his rich father is. He says some weird things like I still can't read well.

I like some of what he's saying. Forever people told me investment properties are like piggy banks and assets which is opposite of what he teaches.
 

Spooney

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Benn Heath
#19
Pretty much go by the directions on the labels when mixing chemicals up. A lot of people think if a little bit does a good job then more will do better but that just isn't the case.

I keep 3 main presprays on my truck. I use Bridgepoint's Bio Break on most of the carpets I clean. Bio Break is also an enzyme cleaner. On heavily soiled pyester carpets I use Pro's Choice Firestorm or if it's one that will just not come clean I'll switch to using Bridgepoint's Traffic Slam which is a poly/olefin cleaner. Traffic Slam has saved me on jobs where other presprays just wouldn't work.

Then there are the specialty spotter chemicals.

For red stains Or artificial dye stains I use Bridgepoint RedZone Ready. With red stain removers you need added heat by either using an iron and a towel or using a wallpaper steamer. Using the iron and towel you will want to put the iron on the towel for 20-30 seconds at a time. If you use a steamer you can set the steamer on the stain for 3-5 minutes and let it work on the stain while you continue cleaning in anther part of the room.

For coffee stains there are a couple different options. What I have found to work best is to prespray it and clean it like normal going over the stain a couple times to remove all the coffee and sugars that are in there. Depending on the carpet sometimes just cleaning it will remove the stain. Stains come out of polyester carpet much easier than nylon. If there is still a stain left after cleaning I apply Bridgepoint's StainZone which is an oxidizer. Apply the StainZone fairly heavily to the stain and walk away from it. Do not rinse after applying StsinZone. Oxidizers work over long periods of time and do not work instantly. The stain will still be there after you apply the StainZone but the stain will go away as the carpet dries. I always call the customer the next day to make sure the stain went away. 90% of the time it is gone, if there is any staining left then I stop by and just apply another dose of StainZone and that just about always takes care of it. Just go in and spray it on and walk away again, no need to set up hoses and try cleaning again. If after 2 attempts the stain is still there then it's permanent and the only other option for stain removal is to cut out the stain and do a patch.

StainZone is also good on any type of organic stain that regular cleaning will not remove.....spaghetti sauce & other food stains, wine stains, blood stains, diarrhea stains etc...

For rust stains get some rust stain remover and follow the directions on the label.

You will want to have a good gel solvent on hand for heavy grease & oil based stains that will not come out with regular cleaning. It also works on gum and oil based paint.

Rubbing alcohol works on removing water based paint. Soak the paint with alcohol and let it dwell for 5-10 minutes then start working the stain with a bone scraper applying more alcohol as needed.

Alcohol also removes magic marker real easily. You will want the alcohol in a spray bottle and set the nozzle on stream. Put the nozzle right on the marker stain and spray it hard. The marker stain will start to dissolve real quick. Have your wand or upholstery tool close by to flush it out right away. You may need to repeat the process a couple times.

For ball point ink and other ink stains I like Chemspec's Ink Exit.

Urine stains have several different methods of attack depending on how severe the urine contamination is and what the customer is willing to pay for. Baisicslly there are 3 different levels of ursine treatment..... a topical cleaning, a pad extraction where you flood the carpet and use a water claw, and the last option is to pull up the carpet, treat the sub floor, replace the padding, clean both sides of the carpet and re-install it. Here are a couple good threads that talk about urine treatment.

https://www.truckmountforums.com/threads/lets-talk-about-urine.86862/

https://www.truckmountforums.com/threads/water-clawing-pet-urine.90793/

There are other stains and spotters out there, the list is endless but what I've covered above will take care of the most common problems you will run into.

Epic post Todd, thank for explaining stainzone especially. It sez on the bottle that is removes pigment stains too... What is a pigment stain?
 

Spooney

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Benn Heath
#20
Welcome to TMF! The good news is that you are on the forum and there is a ton of information here, starting off there will be a learning curve but the curve will get smaller as you read posts and ask questions here.

You will find that 100 different carpet cleaners use 100 differtent chemicals but for the most part there really isn't a huge difference.

Red stains are easy with a red stain remover such as Red Relief or Red Ready and a towel and iron. Other stains will need different treatments, there was just a contest thread on stain removal a few weeks ago that will probably be helpful for you.

Hi Jason, how do I locate this contest thread that you speak of? Do remember what the title was at all?
Cheers.
 

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