Keeping my prespray hot

Clean-n-mean

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Any tricks to keeping your prespray hot?? My edic 2000 watt heater will burn my at the wand valve.
After that I'm not sure how hot it is coming out of the wand jets.
And I really notice with longer hose runs it seems drop off fast.
Any tricks to keep it steaming hot as it comes out of the wand??
Maybe I'm watching too many videos of mark saiger cleaning in sub zero conditions. I'm sure the water does not have to be that hot to see steam coming off it when it's that dam cold
Anyone test the their water temps coming out of their jets??
It's all about the dynes man!!!! And if you think it does not make a difference wash your clothes in cold water....then in hot!!
 

Jim Davisson

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If you feed your machine hot tap water ~120° and run two 2000w heaters you will sustain 180° at the wand, wide open flow with your pump.

With 3 heaters on a dryer or range outlet style adapter I can sustain 210° at the wand at high flow. Most times I leave the middle heater off and use it as thermal mass which holds heat and still maintain 180° which is plenty. 95% of the portable jobs I do, I just use hot tap water, but I have the option for stupid high heat if I need it.
 

wandwizard

Randy Dockins
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The only way you can tell for sure is to get a temp gauge for your wand. Your temp with just about any machine will be affected by the size and number of jets. You mentioned keeping your "prespray" hot. There really is a limit to how hot the prespray should be if you use an inline sprayer and really most presprays don't have to be gotten super hot to work. It is recommended to keep under 180 degrees with an inline sprayer. Many presprays work just fine even cold or just fairly hot tap water. With pump up or electric sprayers you are even more limited to how hot you can get your prespray. TMF used to sell a temp gauge, but you'll have to ask someone else on that. I made one for my wand that I can put on and take off.

Here's one thing I've noticed. If I go too low on my jet sizes like say two 015's or even five 01's, it takes longer for the water at the wand to get hot. There is a workaround for even that but requires modifying your wand a little. Some wands come already made with a recirculation valve that allows you to get the hot water to your tool very fast then shut it off. The TMF store does sell one to add to an existing wand. Those were intended for truck mounts that don't control heat at the machine well, but can be used with just about any setup if you like.
 

AZHome&Carpet

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Not sure why but my old Edic Heater seemed to crank out the heat compared to my current heater
 
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wandwizard

Randy Dockins
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Not sure why but my old Edic Heater seemed to crank out the heat compared to my current heater
I still have a little Phenom extractor. When using that thing with a single jet upholstery tool, probably an 02 jet, it got really hot at the tool for upholstery and maintained heat very well. I never measured how hot, but those brass connections were very hot on my old tool. It did pretty decently with a 2 jet carpet wand with maybe a 3 or 4 flow. It has a single heater that I think is 1,000 watt. It wasn't bad at all for such a small extractor.
 

Clean-n-mean

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If you feed your machine hot tap water ~120° and run two 2000w heaters you will sustain 180° at the wand, wide open flow with your pump.

With 3 heaters on a dryer or range outlet style adapter I can sustain 210° at the wand at high flow. Most times I leave the middle heater off and use it as thermal mass which holds heat and still maintain 180° which is plenty. 95% of the portable jobs I do, I just use hot tap water, but I have the option for stupid high heat if I need it.
Hey jim,
Thanks for the help!!! That EDIC heater i have uses 2000 watts. And Edic claims Its better as the water leaves the extractor all together before it gets heated to supposedly 230 degrees. They say it saves On your equipment. They also say it has a thermostat in it that shuts in on and off.
I was thinking: since I bought the mytee booster what if I run it in line off the booster??? Then I'm that much closer to the wand.
So you would say Jim that optimum heat for dirty carpet is around 180???
That heater gets dam hot. If i touch the fitting coming off it, i get burned. And I'm talking blisters.
And in cannot keep my hands on the valve at the wand with 25' of hose. It's hot as well.
Now 50 feet I notice a substantial drop off.
Just curious if I need or could.use more heat for better results..
 

Clean-n-mean

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The only way you can tell for sure is to get a temp gauge for your wand. Your temp with just about any machine will be affected by the size and number of jets. You mentioned keeping your "prespray" hot. There really is a limit to how hot the prespray should be if you use an inline sprayer and really most presprays don't have to be gotten super hot to work. It is recommended to keep under 180 degrees with an inline sprayer. Many presprays work just fine even cold or just fairly hot tap water. With pump up or electric sprayers you are even more limited to how hot you can get your prespray. TMF used to sell a temp gauge, but you'll have to ask someone else on that. I made one for my wand that I can put on and take off.

Here's one thing I've noticed. If I go too low on my jet sizes like say two 015's or even five 01's, it takes longer for the water at the wand to get hot. There is a workaround for even that but requires modifying your wand a little. Some wands come already made with a recirculation valve that allows you to get the hot water to your tool very fast then shut it off. The TMF store does sell one to add to an existing wand. Those were intended for truck mounts that don't control heat at the machine well, but can be used with just about any setup if you like.
Sorry randy: I meant my rinse water. Great info man. Yes once in use my evo hydro force sprayer I can just turn the heat on or off. But I was mostly concerned with my 1/4 rinse line.
I always see these guys blowing big steam out their wand head.
I get that a little but I think because it's so dam warm in so. Cal you just dont see it like you do in colder climates!
Thank you
 

wandwizard

Randy Dockins
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Sorry randy: I meant my rinse water. Great info man. Yes once in use my evo hydro force sprayer I can just turn the heat on or off. But I was mostly concerned with my 1/4 rinse line.
I always see these guys blowing big steam out their wand head.
I get that a little but I think because it's so dam warm in so. Cal you just dont see it like you do in colder climates!
Thank you
If you ever want to really know the temp there are several on the market. Some you have to install into the wand itself while others quick connect into the wand. I bought a gauge and used spare parts I already had to make mine. Steambrite has one already made if you want to check that out.
 
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Jim Davisson

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You can pump water up to 140° safely through your pump, then heat it under pressure the rest of the way. Once you get to 180° you are not going to see much difference with higher heat, but you can increase your rinse formula and get better returns at 160-180°. Time and chemical concentration can make up for heat, the more chems the less time and heat. They are making more chems everyday, so don't be afraid to add an ounce or two extra when needed.
 

Smtwn janitorial

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There is a formula for wattage vs heat increase. All electric heaters are about the same. If you are wanding over 4 flow you will have luke warm water if you are just using the heater. Like jim said, using hot tap water helps a bunch. You still wont get more than about 20 or 30 degrees of temp increase from a 2000 watt heater. Less if you are on the trigger much. One more reason to get a truckmount. There are a dozen threads on heat, whether you need it or not. It is helpful, but not necessary for most jobs. Just one part of the CHAT equation.
 

Clean-n-mean

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If you ever want to really know the temp there are several on the market. Some you have to install into the wand itself while others quick connect into the wand. I bought a gauge and used spare parts I already had to make mine. Steambrite has one already made if you want to check that out.
Thanks randy yea a mounted gauge would be best i suppose. I will ask donald at steam brite about one.
I would think i could find a generic one somewhere.
Amazon ebay but maybe buying one from a reputable source would tsbk the guesswork out of it!
 

Clean-n-mean

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You can pump water up to 140° safely through your pump, then heat it under pressure the rest of the way. Once you get to 180° you are not going to see much difference with higher heat, but you can increase your rinse formula and get better returns at 160-180°. Time and chemical concentration can make up for heat, the more chems the less time and heat. They are making more chems everyday, so don't be afraid to add an ounce or two extra when needed.
Jim
Great point!! I recently started using a booster for my prespray for olefin and I cannot believe the difference. Cuts through the grease and oils so much easier!! I did a job knowing this and it saved me a ton of scrubbing time with my wand. Huge difference.
I wonder if I just threw a adjustable heater in my box??? Then let it run through my larger heater.
But if I just add hot w as ther that may be all I need.
 

Clean-n-mean

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There is a formula for wattage vs heat increase. All electric heaters are about the same. If you are wanding over 4 flow you will have luke warm water if you are just using the heater. Like jim said, using hot tap water helps a bunch. You still wont get more than about 20 or 30 degrees of temp increase from a 2000 watt heater. Less if you are on the trigger much. One more reason to get a truckmount. There are a dozen threads on heat, whether you need it or not. It is helpful, but not necessary for most jobs. Just one part of the CHAT equation.
Thanks buddy!! Yea I'm going to try what jim said just adding hot water to the tank. Then with my heater I'm thinking I may be pretty good.
And then I'm going to get a gauge like randy suggested on at least bust out my infrared temp gun. As t least I can get a idea.
What temp does it take to really get the steam pouring out????
 

Clean-n-mean

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By the way, hows the PMF stair tool you bought??? Happy with it??
 

Smtwn janitorial

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I think 180+ at the want you will see it of steam. I got the stair tool used with a broken valve and havnt had time to order a new one. I keep forgetting. Thanks for the reminder.
 
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AZHome&Carpet

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For myself I don’t think heat is a reason to get a TM. I want heat but don’t need 200+ degrees. I’ve read every arguement and for myself know heat is a positive. Gets chemicals reacting, helps remove grease, and such. I’ve read people away cold water is just as effective yet my lame brain can’t see or fathom why. But sure don’t feel I need a truck mount just for heat. Keep in mind I don’t so much Tile, Grout, or Commercial
 

AZHome&Carpet

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Hey that’s cool. One too many things to break. And get tangled on but never knew they offered one
 

Clean-n-mean

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The only way you can tell for sure is to get a temp gauge for your wand. Your temp with just about any machine will be affected by the size and number of jets. You mentioned keeping your "prespray" hot. There really is a limit to how hot the prespray should be if you use an inline sprayer and really most presprays don't have to be gotten super hot to work. It is recommended to keep under 180 degrees with an inline sprayer. Many presprays work just fine even cold or just fairly hot tap water. With pump up or electric sprayers you are even more limited to how hot you can get your prespray. TMF used to sell a temp gauge, but you'll have to ask someone else on that. I made one for my wand that I can put on and take off.

Here's one thing I've noticed. If I go too low on my jet sizes like say two 015's or even five 01's, it takes longer for the water at the wand to get hot. There is a workaround for even that but requires modifying your wand a little. Some wands come already made with a recirculation valve that allows you to get the hot water to your tool very fast then shut it off. The TMF store does sell one to add to an existing wand. Those were intended for truck mounts that don't control heat at the machine well, but can be used with just about any setup if you like.
So basically the bypass is turned on to keep the water running and the water hot at the wand. When resume cleaning you just shut it off and hot!! Great info random thank you!!