Hydramaster cds 4.8 question

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jwargo1967

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Nov 13, 2011
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#21
I also have the Boxxer 21hp briggs engine. I just enjoy using the cds more but always feel the van is going to let me down.
Once you lose confidence in a piece of equipment, its hard to keep using it.
yeah, I have a friend that had a dodge van, and it was a constant headache as well


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Dedicated

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Feb 9, 2012
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#22
Ive been looking into tm's and I see some prefer direct drive and some slide in. I understand slide in but not sure on direct drive. Its attached to the van...but does the van need to be running to have it work? Hope I dont sound stupid lol. Ive had my eue on a van/direct drive combo (hydramaster cds 4.8 3900 hours, ford van 150,000 miles) is this something I should even consider? Is this a good tm? How much would you guys pay? ALSO, is this TM strong enough or does it provide enough constant heat to do tile and grout work? I appreciate any input on this...



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I wouldn't be concerned about the CDS, but the truck with 150K and the 3900 hour from the machine, the van is actually approaching 300K.
 
Mar 3, 2014
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Patrick McAnulla
#23
Ive been looking into tm's and I see some prefer direct drive and some slide in. I understand slide in but not sure on direct drive. Its attached to the van...but does the van need to be running to have it work? Hope I dont sound stupid lol. Ive had my eue on a van/direct drive combo (hydramaster cds 4.8 3900 hours, ford van 150,000 miles) is this something I should even consider? Is this a good tm? How much would you guys pay? ALSO, is this TM strong enough or does it provide enough constant heat to do tile and grout work? I appreciate any input on this...



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I would have a mechanic do a check over on the engine. With that many miles and machine hours it could take its tole on an engine.
 

jwargo1967

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#24
I wouldn't be concerned about the CDS, but the truck with 150K and the 3900 hour from the machine, the van is actually approaching 300K.
yeah, I'd have to agree, the truck is pretty much worthless.. if the price is good for the CDs, in other words if that year CDs is worth say $12000 and I have no idea what it would be worth..... Then I wouldn't give more than that plus what you could sell the van for once you get the unit out because the van isn't worth much


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Dec 25, 2013
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#25
I purchased a 2000 gmc 1 ton 2 years ago cds4.8 w salsa $13,000. 150 k, and I love it, turn the key and make money. Oh yeah machine had 5,000 hrs. Runs like a charm. Go for it!
 
Oct 5, 2016
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#26
coupler? there is no coupler on a cds. there is a driveshaft driven by a electromagnetic clutch.. i hear those eventuallly go out, but i have 1700 hours and not even one minute of downtime.. my three prior slide ins had multiple issues way before that many hours...
you have to have one to appreciate the reliability... Id mainly be concerned about the van.. if the suction is strong and there are no leaks, there isnt much to go wrong...


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What do you suggest looking at if suction is low. Around 5 on the Guage under preasure
 

jwargo1967

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Joseph Wargo
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#27
What do you suggest looking at if suction is low. Around 5 on the Guage under preasure
wow, that's low. If it has a factory vacuum relief, it should hit about 14" lift if you cap both ports off.. Either the relief valve needs adjusting because it's leaking too much air, or there is a major vacuum leak somewhere. Look at your waste tank gasket. if it is not intact, you will lose a ton of vac like that. Check anything that taps in to the vacuum pipes for leaks, and the gaskets on the pipes.
I also had this one time, and the black pipe that went from the waste tank just behind the driver seat was rusted and full of holes.
Tap on all those pipes to and from the blower. If they aren't solid, replace them. It has to be one of these things( those pipes are gonna rust through every few years).
 
Oct 5, 2016
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#28
wow, that's low. If it has a factory vacuum relief, it should hit about 14" lift if you cap both ports off.. Either the relief valve needs adjusting because it's leaking too much air, or there is a major vacuum leak somewhere. Look at your waste tank gasket. if it is not intact, you will lose a ton of vac like that. Check anything that taps in to the vacuum pipes for leaks, and the gaskets on the pipes.
I also had this one time, and the black pipe that went from the waste tank just behind the driver seat was rusted and full of holes.
Tap on all those pipes to and from the blower. If they aren't solid, replace them. It has to be one of these things( those pipes are gonna rust through every few years).
Called and spoke to hydra master today and they gave me some solid advice. After plugging both ports my system seems to rise to about 9 maybe a tad over 10. A quivk inspection of my tank lif and the sral seems sokid. I will look at the pipes he hind the driver seat tomrrow as you suggested.
 

seagrtj

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Jun 28, 2011
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#30
Called and spoke to hydra master today and they gave me some solid advice. After plugging both ports my system seems to rise to about 9 maybe a tad over 10. A quivk inspection of my tank lif and the sral seems sokid. I will look at the pipes he hind the driver seat tomrrow as you suggested.
Did you try adjusting the vac relief spring???
 

seagrtj

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Jun 28, 2011
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#32
it is on the waste tank itself, drivers side
 

jwargo1967

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#33
if it's a few years old, there's a good chance you have holes in the pipes. It took me a couple days before I realized this. I had terribly low vacuum, and got all focused in on a couple tiny voids in my waste tank gasket.. It kept getting worse on a job, then i found it. It's always funny to me that mfgs seem to make every damn thing out of plastic that shouldn't be, then in the one place that plastic would be better, THEN they use metal,lol
 

Matt M

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Mar 10, 2017
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Matthew Mallary
#34
Called and spoke to hydra master today and they gave me some solid advice. After plugging both ports my system seems to rise to about 9 maybe a tad over 10. A quivk inspection of my tank lif and the sral seems sokid. I will look at the pipes he hind the driver seat tomrrow as you suggested.
What advice did Hydra master give you, I also use a 4.6 cds and I feel like the vacuum isn't what it should be. I don't see any holes in pipes or anything like that. As far as the relief valve, what should you do with it? Do you just throw a socket on it and tighten it or should it have a certain torque spec?