How do I properly set chemical flow?

Dream Clean

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Emerson Campbell
I have a typical gph flow meter on my tm. I've never really understood the right way to set it though. Everything I use always says "meter to 2gph" and that's fine. But the way it's been explained to me was you put whatever tool you're using on then set the flow based on that. But with that logic and always putting it at 2gph no matter the tool, wouldn't there be a lot more soap going into an upholstery tool than a wand? 5 less jets and way less water flow but still 2 gallons per hour of soap.

The way I've done it is set it at 2gph with the bucket fill hose on then every tool will have the same amount of soap going to it no matter how much I use.

Which way is correct? And if it's the first way, why?
 

Scott W

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At 2 GPH, the final dilution will be between 1:640 and 1:700 depending upon the tool used and the flow. The rinse is very diluted no matter what tool. I would not stress over it too much.

Most products say to meter at between 2 GPH and 3 GPH depending upon water hardness.

Generally, the flow is measured with the tool attached. The "X gallons per hour" settings are at best approximate numbers. When the flow is lower for a tool that uses less water, the draw is also reduced.
 
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Dream Clean

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Emerson Campbell
At 2 GPH, the final dilution will be between 1:640 and 1:700 depending upon the tool used and the flow. The rinse is very diluted no matter what tool. I would not stress over it too much.

Most products say to meter at between 2 GPH and 3 GPH depending upon water hardness.

Generally, the flow is measured with the tool attached. The "X gallons per hour" settings are at best approximate numbers. When the flow is lower for a tool that uses less water, the draw is also reduced.
Thanks for the help. I've always just worried about leaving too much rinse in a carpet or piece of furniture.
 

wandwizard

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Thanks for the help. I've always just worried about leaving too much rinse in a carpet or piece of furniture.
With a good rinse you shouldn't need to worry too much about leaving any residue. The fact is a good acid rinse will remove residues, not cause them, and will leave naturals in either a slightly acid state or near neutral state which is exactly what you want. If I know I already have an existing residue problem caused by someone else I actually crank up the rinse to maybe 4 gph to aid in the removal of those residues and it does work. Normally around 2 to 3 is the sweet spot for most cleaning. If you're using a detergent it's not a great idea to crank up the meter beyond what the label says. I have permanently quit using detergents in my machine just as a matter of preference. I simply find absolutely no need for them, period.
 
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Dream Clean

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I would use an acid rinse but I was told by my supplier that since my tm was older (about 14-15) and was never really descaled in the burner as far as he knew if I ran an acid it would strip scale off and cause all kinds of clogging issues in my tools, which I've had happen before. So until I get a new machine or a stainless coil I don't think an acid is possible.

I did try making a homemade last step injection with a hydroforce sprayer and a different metering tip but it didn't work so it still needs tweaking.
 

sbsscn

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I check and adjust mine every time I run the rinse.
I have a 3.5 lead hose with a different jet to match the size of the tool Im using so it matches. I use the hi flow hydra, rotovac shear upholstery, bonzer and rotovac and Evolution wand and You just cannot set it and use the same setting the flow changes and it will effect the draw amount.