Heat exchange bypass valve regulator design


New Member
Nov 25, 2020
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This is my heat exchange regulator unit hook to my screen and orfice. Incoming pressure is adjusted down. Via the needle valve adjusting the incoming pressure of 400psi to represent 100psi on the meter representing hot water bypassing to the waist tank in consistent flow passing through the weep cooling water. If my wand is set down to long my temputure can rise above 250. On my homemade bypass I've added a selinoide at 15$ and connected it to a temp sensor rated at 125. If my temp hits 125 the screen orifice bypasses all waters to the waist tank. This double flow valve allows me to set a consistent bleeding of water plus a flush system when not in action. Ive found a 125 thermo disk " open on rise", and most are close on rise" this cycles my flush system from 195 to 125 when the wand is in action and hope this idea is helpfull. To add more simple issues im adding a remote control door lock unlock fob remote - car system 15$- as my back up so while setting the wand down i hit my car fob and dump water in consistent flow or stop the direct flow. My needle valve adjusted to 100psi always allows a dribble. My selonoid allows alot more then that being direct from bypass screen and orfice. To further this im adding a 150 sensor on my water box that activates a car alam like a pager im wearing it sounds the alarm my water box hit 250, and further goal is to add an auto remote start and shut off for my 18hp engine so i can shut it down or start it up via the house. My concern was getting this 2nd hand machine the temp and pressure broke prior owners hoses, and yes the screen orifice idea is a solution, but can very job to job as to how much heat you need and how much you open the needle valve, as in my system you limit psi to 100psi and no more then 145 temp. to protect your selinoide.
Im not an english major but an electronics mechanical engineer


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