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Fresh Water Tank

LookNGood

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Just find a 55 gallon drum that food or other chems come in... Some people use them for rain barrels.. They are like 10$ on Craigslist or sometimes free

My concern with that is installing the fittings to feed to my machine and an autofill, and also installing it in the van (keeping it stationary while driving). With a plastic tank, they can install the fittings for me so it will be done right and still water tight.
 

LookNGood

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I got by with a 55 gallon tank for several years, but on some jobs it will fall short. If you're mainly doing residential and only need to use the tank for the occasional job I'd say it would be fine. Even with my 85 gallon tank on occasion I have to hook up for water. Normally I can do one large job or several smaller jobs and not have to worry about hooking up for water. If the 55 is all you need right now go for it. Lots of guys have used them and still use them. Better to have that than nothing at all.

Right now I have 125 gallon tank. My issue is, I don't have enough room in my van for all my equipment. I would rather that I can fit all my equipment and just have to hook up to a water source, than have water and not enough equipment.
 

wandwizard

Randy Dockins
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Right now I have 125 gallon tank. My issue is, I don't have enough room in my van for all my equipment. I would rather that I can fit all my equipment and just have to hook up to a water source, than have water and not enough equipment.

We're in the same boat on that one, but I can't get by where I live w/o a water tank no matter what time of year it is. The one and only thing I don't like about my current sub-mount Hydramaster tank is it takes up more floor space than it should. They've redesigned them now to take up less floor space with I think a 70 gallon capacity. I don't really know it if would make that much difference in my situation, but I know that with floor space in a van every sq. inch counts! This is the one I have currently. It looks good and will probably last a lifetime, but it takes up a bit too much space.
tank86gallon.jpg

I've noticed several manufacturers including Hydramaster going with something more like this one. Only takes up about the same space as the machine itself. Cost a lot less too. Mine was close to 3 grand installed so pretty high.
318-on-belly-tank-left.jpg
 

seagrtj

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my next van will have a small (50 gal or less) waste tank, and I will just use a pump out a lot. a sump pump would make a fine pump out.

The problem with sump pumps is 1 they are not really designed to pump the debris that is collected in a waste tank and they clog and burn up and 2 they are sitting in the waste tank all the time and that nastiness just ruins them. They are designed to pump excessive water not cat/dog hair and other crap sucked up through the wand

Sent from my LG-LS980 using TMF Forums mobile app
 

MPR

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was the cost the tank or installation....i have been looking for one for a boxer 318 for same space savings reason
 

LookNGood

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I use these for live fresh water...best $100 I ever spent. Northern tool.
View attachment 31224
View attachment 31225
Here a picture of the reel mounted in the van.
View attachment 31226

Hey I purchased this set up for my hose at home to try out. Did you do anything to the reel to make it water tight? It seems to be dripping a bit. Not a big deal outside but I'd prefer it to not drip continuously if I put it in my van. Also if you fill while cleaning does it keep up even though it is a smaller diameter hose?
 

john gerding

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Hey I purchased this set up for my hose at home to try out. Did you do anything to the reel to make it water tight? It seems to be dripping a bit. Not a big deal outside but I'd prefer it to not drip continuously if I put it in my van. Also if you fill while cleaning does it keep up even though it is a smaller diameter hose?
Is it leaking at the brass swivel? If so exchange it... those brass swivels are absolute garbage....and i see now cox reels are using them...they last a month before pooring water....what a joke... swingline swivel run you 100 bucks and worth the cost...
 
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Bob Savage

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This is the tank you want for fresh water:

http://www.tank-depot.com/product.aspx?id=339

They are vertical water tanks. They will take up less floor space as you can order the diameter, height, and gallons that you want. A water barrel is too short to give you 55 gallons in taking up floor space with a wider diameter and lower height.

I have one of these water tanks, and added an auto float shut-off at the top of the tank. It comes with a 3/4" fitting at the bottom to feed your pump, either by gravity or booster pump.

I am in the midst of replacing my TM recovery tank as the old one is finally shot (26 years old).

I am going form a 65 gallon tank to a 45 gallon tank, as I have one of the most reliable auto pump outs I have ever seen. It will go for weeks without having to clean out the APO filter, and the pump and filter sit in the bottom of the recovery tank!

You will also increase your TM vacuum simply by using a smaller recovery tank, giving it a quicker rise time in Hg!

The pump cannot wear out as it is a sealed electro magnet that drives a steel shaft/impellor.

We run dual wands all day long and never have to stop to dump the recovery tank, as it will fill to 10" high and turn the APO on, pumps through a standard garden hose, and shuts off at 2" tank level.

I will have more floor space with this new recovery tank too. It has a total of 12" diameter filter area (Two 3" PVC -T's) going to the blower (Roots #45) through two 2" hoses. There are two 2" hoses coming from the recovery tank going to the machine front panel, and they go to two separate 2" inline filters, and then into the house for cleaning.

It's a screamer.
 
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LookNGood

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This is the tank you want for fresh water:

http://www.tank-depot.com/product.aspx?id=339

They are vertical water tanks. They will take up less floor space as you can order the diameter, height, and gallons that you want. A water barrel is too short to give you 55 gallons in taking up floor space with a wider diameter and lower height.

I have one of these water tanks, and added an auto float shut-off at the top of the tank. It comes with a 3/4" fitting at the bottom to feed your pump, either by gravity or booster pump.

I am in the midst of replacing my TM recovery tank as the old one is finally shot (26 years old).

I am going form a 65 gallon tank to a 45 gallon tank, as I have one of the most reliable auto pump outs I have ever seen. It will go for weeks without having to clean out the APO filter, and the pump and filter sit in the bottom of the recovery tank!

You will also increase your TM vacuum simply by using a smaller recovery tank, giving it a quicker rise time in Hg!

The pump cannot wear out as it is a sealed electro magnet that drives a steel shaft/impellor.

We run dual wands all day long and never have to stop to dump the recovery tank, as it will fill to 10" high and turn the APO on, pumps through a standard garden hose, and shuts off at 2" tank level.

I will have more floor space with this new recovery tank too. It has a total of 12" diameter filter area (Two 3" PVC -T's) going to the blower (Roots #45) through two 2" hoses. There are two 2" hoses coming from the recovery tank going to the machine front panel, and they go to two separate 2" inline filters, and then into the house for cleaning.

It's a screamer.

I'd love the info on your auto pump out and also the recovery tank you will be getting. I can use all the room I can get in my van right now. I used to be so organized but there just isn't enough room anymore and it is negatively affecting my work and mostly my morale. Having to reorganize all the time for just about every job gets tiresome. I either have to throw everything in on top of each other and remove everything at the job site, or pick and choose what I want to bring (which is worse since I might not have something I need). In the end I really need a box truck but its just not in the cards yet.
 

Bob Savage

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I'd love the info on your auto pump out and also the recovery tank you will be getting. I can use all the room I can get in my van right now. I used to be so organized but there just isn't enough room anymore and it is negatively affecting my work and mostly my morale. Having to reorganize all the time for just about every job gets tiresome. I either have to throw everything in on top of each other and remove everything at the job site, or pick and choose what I want to bring (which is worse since I might not have something I need). In the end I really need a box truck but its just not in the cards yet.
The APO is one I designed years ago for the truckmounts that I was manufacturing at the time. Since I no longer manufacture them, I am giving you the secret.

It seemed like there was really no foolproof APO on the market. When I say foolproof, I am talking about an APO that requires hardly any attention other than a "once in a while cleanout" of the filter, and that's it.

The pump is from the pond industry, where that pump has to remained submerged 365 days a year pumping a waterfall, so it is continuously running 24/7. That takes quite a pump. There are dead leaves, and all kinds of crud in a pond.

I have had a Koi pond for 14 years, using this same pump through all 4 seasons (Ohio). It got me to thinking this same pump may work well for the CC industry, and it does not wear out, nor does it cost several hundred dollars.

Here it is:

http://www.aquaticponds.com/Pondmaster-Mag-Drive-18-Pump--1500-GPH-_p_686.html

You'll need this filter, and you also see the only 2 replaceable parts this pump will ever need (the impeller and the front housing) sometime down the road:

http://www.aquaticponds.com/Pondmaster-Pumps_c_100.html

You will also need a 3/4" one way check valve going from the pump to the fitting at the top of the recovery tank wall, where you hook up a garden hose outside the tank.

¾” poly check valve 687-12F12F-B
Call Windtrax at (800) 443-0676.

You also need to place a knee high hose over the APO filter in the bottom of the recovery tank, and replace that about every week and a half of cleaning 3-4 jobs a day.

It does run on 110VAC, so you need to get a small inverter (500 watts) and run that from your van or TM battery, or just plug directly into the house, as it only uses 2 amps, so any circuit will work.

Any questions, I'll be glad to answer them.
 

wandwizard

Randy Dockins
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This is the tank you want for fresh water:

http://www.tank-depot.com/product.aspx?id=339

They are vertical water tanks. They will take up less floor space as you can order the diameter, height, and gallons that you want. A water barrel is too short to give you 55 gallons in taking up floor space with a wider diameter and lower height.

I have one of these water tanks, and added an auto float shut-off at the top of the tank. It comes with a 3/4" fitting at the bottom to feed your pump, either by gravity or booster pump.

I am in the midst of replacing my TM recovery tank as the old one is finally shot (26 years old).

I am going form a 65 gallon tank to a 45 gallon tank, as I have one of the most reliable auto pump outs I have ever seen. It will go for weeks without having to clean out the APO filter, and the pump and filter sit in the bottom of the recovery tank!

You will also increase your TM vacuum simply by using a smaller recovery tank, giving it a quicker rise time in Hg!

The pump cannot wear out as it is a sealed electro magnet that drives a steel shaft/impellor.

We run dual wands all day long and never have to stop to dump the recovery tank, as it will fill to 10" high and turn the APO on, pumps through a standard garden hose, and shuts off at 2" tank level.

I will have more floor space with this new recovery tank too. It has a total of 12" diameter filter area (Two 3" PVC -T's) going to the blower (Roots #45) through two 2" hoses. There are two 2" hoses coming from the recovery tank going to the machine front panel, and they go to two separate 2" inline filters, and then into the house for cleaning.

It's a screamer.

So do you just drop this in your recovery tank, wire it up, and plumb it up? Does it have it's own built in switch to turn it off and on so you don't even have to wire a float switch up? Sounds almost like a dream come true. Extremely low wattage demands is a big plus too.
 

Bob Savage

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So do you just drop this in your recovery tank, wire it up, and plumb it up? Does it have it's own built in switch to turn it off and on so you don't even have to wire a float switch up? Sounds almost like a dream come true. Extremely low wattage demands is a big plus too.
You need to get a float switch from Grainger, and mount it in the tank (about 5" from the bottom drill a hole through the tank and silicone it into place, allowing the float to swing up and make contact) that will make contact to the outlet at the end of the float wire to turn the APO on and off.

You'l have to cut the wire going to the float outlet in order to feed it through the wall of the tank, and then crimp it back together on the other side of the tank wall, to plug the APO into.

Big float switch 3BY58

Sorry, I left out that part.
 

john martinez

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The APO is one I designed years ago for the truckmounts that I was manufacturing at the time. Since I no longer manufacture them, I am giving you the secret.

It seemed like there was really no foolproof APO on the market. When I say foolproof, I am talking about an APO that requires hardly any attention other than a "once in a while cleanout" of the filter, and that's it.

The pump is from the pond industry, where that pump has to remained submerged 365 days a year pumping a waterfall, so it is continuously running 24/7. That takes quite a pump. There are dead leaves, and all kinds of crud in a pond.

I have had a Koi pond for 14 years, using this same pump through all 4 seasons (Ohio). It got me to thinking this same pump may work well for the CC industry, and it does not wear out, nor does it cost several hundred dollars.

Here it is:

http://www.aquaticponds.com/Pondmaster-Mag-Drive-18-Pump--1500-GPH-_p_686.html

You'll need this filter, and you also see the only 2 replaceable parts this pump will ever need (the impeller and the front housing) sometime down the road:

http://www.aquaticponds.com/Pondmaster-Pumps_c_100.html

You will also need a 3/4" one way check valve going from the pump to the fitting at the top of the recovery tank wall, where you hook up a garden hose outside the tank.

¾” poly check valve 687-12F12F-B
Call Windtrax at (800) 443-0676.

You also need to place a knee high hose over the APO filter in the bottom of the recovery tank, and replace that about every week and a half of cleaning 3-4 jobs a day.

It does run on 110VAC, so you need to get a small inverter (500 watts) and run that from your van or TM battery, or just plug directly into the house, as it only uses 2 amps, so any circuit will work.

Any questions, I'll be glad to answer them.
Hello Bob I've been cleaning tile and grout using my MultiWash CRB and have had a lot of luck but I've always wanted to try using a tile spinner too so I recently purchased a Turbo Hybrid tile spinner and I fixed up my Karcher 3,000 PSI pressure washer to use for the supply side and my Mytee Speedster portable extractor for the suction. I Added a ball valve to reduce the pressure down to around 1200-1500 PSI followed by a pressure gauge and then another 25' of ¼ hose connects to the Turbo Hybrid. After making several videos getting everything up and running including a pressure test wide open around 1500 psi and GPM of a little over 2 GPM I finally cleaned my parents tile and grout. I was very excited with the awesome results and my parents loved watching their black grout lines turn white right before their eyes. The achilles heal in my current operation is you guessed it having to dump my tank every 5 minutes. So I was referred to find your APO which it looks like I finally have! My first question is BC the particular may be a little too big for my waste tank what about this other pondmaster pump:

Danner Manufacturing, Inc. 2720 Pondmaster Pond-Mag, Magnetic Drive Water Pump, 950 GPH?​

Because it might fit my Mytee Speedster waste tank a little better.
Then you mentioned a ¾" check valve bw the pump and the fitting @ the top of the tank wall. Is the check valve to keep water from falling back into the waste tank when the pump shuts off? And what fitting do I use @ the top of the waste tank? Also I'd Rather drill a few holes through my T-handle lid so when drop the pump into the tank I can close the lid @ the same time. Is that ok? Then you mentioned knee high hose over the filter in the bottom of the tank. I'm pretty sure you mean women's leggings? As an additional filter? The float switch you recommend 3BY58 is disconnued on Grainger replaced by 6PNU4 $42 piggyback float switch 13 amps. What if I don't use a float switch and instead add a few inches of water to the waste tank before I start cleaning so when I plug in my 950 GPH Danner pump it doesn't run dry while I'm getting my Turbo Hybrid ready to go? TIA Mr. Savage! God bless hope you are doing well and still having fun Cleaning carpets etc.
 

john martinez

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You need to get a float switch from Grainger, and mount it in the tank (about 5" from the bottom drill a hole through the tank and silicone it into place, allowing the float to swing up and make contact) that will make contact to the outlet at the end of the float wire to turn the APO on and off.

You'l have to cut the wire going to the float outlet in order to feed it through the wall of the tank, and then crimp it back together on the other side of the tank wall, to plug the APO into.

Big float switch 3BY58

Sorry, I left out that part.
Hello agaiñ Bob I'm buying parts for my APO (I went with the 950 GPH pondmaster BTW) and I'm wondering if I should use rigid parts only inside the waste tank or maybe rubber hose between the pump and the inline check valve? TIA
 

john martinez

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Rubber hose is what I use.
I'm probably going to shorten the discharge pipe a little but this is what I did last night: can I use cloth garden hose for the waste water or probably a sturdy rubber or nylon would work better so it doesn't kink?
 

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