Customer wants wool rugs cleaned. Help!

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Jan 25, 2009
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oklahoma
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kyle neville
#1
I have a customer that wants some wool rugs cleaned. Dont know how to clean wool or what chems to use. I have a bridgepoint dealer close by so thats the chems I have quick access to. Could someone help me on as how to go about cleaning wool. I would greatly appreciate you guys to share your vast knowledge possessed here! :bigsmiley:
 

leofry

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Feb 12, 2009
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bardstown kentucky
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john rogers
#2
I have never cleaned wool so you might not take my advice on this. I would use what BP sales which looks like thats the pathy you have taken. Is it wal to wall or Oriental Rugs? I dont like losing buz but if they are very expenise Oriental Rugs. I tell the customer that they should be cleanin in plant. I found a compainy that does not do carpet cleaning and if i ever get a cusomter thats watnst that done i mail it off to them UPS and I get it back in about 10 days very costly though...now if they want me to clean it I will. I think you just dont use a lot of water, use air movers and take you time.
 

dryguy

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Jan 9, 2007
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MO
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glenn martin
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United States
#3
I cleaned a wool carpet yesterday. Used Fabric shampoo for wool & rinse with Fab Set Neutralizer from Interlink. Put air movers on carpet. Looks great. Dont be afraid to clean wool just use a low PH prespray
 

Scott W

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Feb 14, 2006
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#4
If this is a wool wall-to-wall carpet, here are the steps I suggest.

1. Vacuum very thoruughly. Wool fibers can hide a lot of soil before they look dirty. I have seen wool rugs with as much as 2 pounds of dirt per sq. ft. and they looked ok.
2. Prespray with Zone Perfect mixed with 1 ounce of Citrus Solve per gallon of ready to use prespray solution.
Some suggest keeping presrpay at a lowe pH, but the real key is not the pH of the prespray as much as what pH is left on the carpet after cleaning.
For those who are concerned about pH you could prespray with Hydro Break instead.
3. Use water with temperatures of around 170 at the wand. This may be 200 or more at the truck depending on the length of your hose run and outside temperatures. Water AT THE CARPET should be 150 or less.
4. Use End Zone for your rinse agent.
5. Wool holds a lot of moisture. Do extra slow dry passes. USe ceiling fans, airmovers, ventilation with fresh air and whatever means are available to help the carpet dry faster.
6. Groom by brushing the pil;e away from you as you move from farthest point back toward the door.

Scott Warrington
 

dryguy

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Jan 9, 2007
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MO
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glenn martin
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#5
Scott W

I was told by Interlink when cleaning wool carpet, If it is real dirty then clean it using how you suggested. But if it isnt that dirty then use the chemicals I mentioned above.:confused:
 
Dec 14, 2008
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www.sefcarpetcleaning.homestead.com
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Sef Garcia
Business Location
United States
#6
Check for bleeding.
Use wool safe product. Anyone will do. I use Formula 1 from Cross American or Anti Allergy formula from Master Blend.

Turn pressure down to around 200 and turn heat down. Extra dry strokes. Dry as quickly as possible, Fans.
 

Chet

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Nov 13, 2007
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Waterford, Michigan
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Chet Sadowski
#7
We clean a lot of wool and we always check to see if it is a woven carpet or non woven. Woven carpets can shrink away from the walls and present a negetive moment with the client. Look at the backing at a heat vent or disingage and pull a corner slightly back. If you see jute or action back it is non woven and semi safe. If you see the back side of the wool tufts it is woven and we normally use a lot less moisture. Either way it can be wet cleaned, just be much more carefulwith the amount of moisture, and qualify the results with the client.
If a wool carpets shrinks it can normally be stretched back, but you'll loose the client's trust.
 

M4sT3R T3CH

Active Member
Feb 1, 2009
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Topeka
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Randall Blackwell
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United States
#9
About 2 years ago I cleaned 2 10x12 wool area rugs. They were hand woven in the late 1800s. These rugs would bleed very easily. I used dye-lock and the delicate foam cleaning I learned at the bridgepoint schools. Rugs turned out great. Only downside is hand cleaning rugs that big takes a while. But I agree with most others When I clean your typical wool rug, I use hydrobreak, extract as well as possible and groom fab-set in. Then I dry with air movers. I havn't had any problems yet. Always ck for bleeding. Good topic. :cool:
 

Lance Golden

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Jun 20, 2008
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Lance Golden
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#10
One of the oldest "tricks" in the book.... Sweep an area (hard surface) clean enough to place the rug, upside down, and vacuum from the backside 1st, using an upright vac, with a "beater-bar". This will knock a ton of the silt and loose debris through the face fiber. Peel it up off of the floor, and sweep up your mess... (repeat as necessary) and clean using Scott W.'s method, you will be just fine. ALWAYS check for colorfastness 1st! Red, blues and blacks are usually the 1st to run, fade, or bleed. I use small amount of straight ammonia on a white terry towel, (worst case scenario, stronger than any cleaner you would ever use on it) Good luck
 

Canada-Eh

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Jul 14, 2008
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Kenny Cosway
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#11
I do wool all the time with Cimex/Releasit combo.
In fact I have 10,000 squre feet of commercial wool to clean next month.
No matter what you use on a big one like that, the place smells like a barn-yard for 2 or 3 hours.
 

leofry

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Feb 12, 2009
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john rogers
#12
do you guys just clean the top? and if you do clean the bottom seems like you would run into troubel doint at there location to much prep work and not a good enverment. Yes i will go over there rug clean the best i can but its not the best enverment and i tell them that. as far as taking it out on the drive way. That just dont seem right to take a 100 year old rugt that is worth a lot of money and lay it down on drive way. I mean if they dont care thats fine...
 

Scott W

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Feb 14, 2006
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#13
I was told by Interlink when cleaning wool carpet, If it is real dirty then clean it using how you suggested. But if it isnt that dirty then use the chemicals I mentioned above.:confused:
The products you listed will work fine. My personal preference is not to use Fabric Shampoo. I just prefer low foam products for easier rinsing. But there is more than one right way to clean wool.

Scott Warrington
 

Scott W

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Feb 14, 2006
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#14
do you guys just clean the top? and if you do clean the bottom seems like you would run into troubel doint at there location to much prep work and not a good enverment. Yes i will go over there rug clean the best i can but its not the best enverment and i tell them that. as far as taking it out on the drive way. That just dont seem right to take a 100 year old rugt that is worth a lot of money and lay it down on drive way. I mean if they dont care thats fine...
Unless the rugs are too large to move, they should be removed from the clients home and cleaned at your facility - your office, your shop or your driveway.

This allows plenty of time for testing, It lets you control drying environment better and allows you to clean without a consumer looking over your shoulder.

The method Lance described for cleaning the back is for shaking loose some of the soil that will be deep in the rug. Vacuum it upside down. Flip it over and vacuum the fron. Maybe repeat this a couple of times. Then when you are not getting any more soil loose, go ahead with testing and extraction cleaning of the face.

There is a huige variety of wool rugs. Different construction methods, different qualities of fibers, different dye methods and so forth. Test thoroughly before applying any moisture.

Scott Warrington
 

leofry

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Feb 12, 2009
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bardstown kentucky
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john rogers
#15
I am always wondering . Do you think its easy to clean Oriental rugs. Do you think there is a lot of web sites that make it sound very diffiicult?
 
Jan 25, 2009
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oklahoma
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kyle neville
#16
How do I test for color bleed? Ammonia on a white towl and dab? If color is on the towl then it will bleed? Any other methods of testing the wool? What if it does bleed, then what?
 

leofry

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Feb 12, 2009
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bardstown kentucky
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john rogers
#17
Scott will have the best answer, but I have used just warm watter and a white towel to test. and you can use a prodcut called dye-loc.. Prespray with Dye-Loc before beginning the cleaning procedure. To prevent delayed bleeding on carpets or fabrics, use it as a final rinse. You can get it at BP. I will say i have had some color come off when testing and it still did NOT bleed. I think you have to be carefull. I always ask questions about thie rug. how much did you give for it? is it a family heirloom. I dont want to be scared of it.. but i dont watnt to screw up a 25 grand rug either.
 

Scott W

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Feb 14, 2006
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#18
Cleaning wool rugs does not have to be difficult but it does carry more liability. If you damage a rug, you may end up writing a check to cover the cost of that rug. Training and pre-testing are two keys to avoiding as much of the liability as you can.

There are a few main issues.

1. Some of the cleaning products used for synthetic carpet can damage wool. Try to use moderate pH and leave the carpet with a final pH somewhere between 5.5 and 7.0.

2. Wool rugs may be dyed by hundreds of different methods rather than half a dozen that are commonly used for manufactured carpet. Knowing how to handle all those possible types of dyes can be an issue. Definitely test with the strongest product you will be using. For the 10% of wool rugs that may bleed, using Dye-Loc and prevent 99% of those bleeding.

3. Depending on the foundation yarns, wool rugs ( or any woven product) may shrink. Knowing how to identify the differnt backing materials and getting a problematic rug dry quickly is important.

4. Wool holds a lot of soil, up to several pounds per sq. ft. is possible. That requires a lot of vacuuming (or using duster, Badger, Wolverine, etc.) to remove all this dry soil hidden in the rug. This is a lot of extra effort before the cleaning.

5. Wool is also sensitive to many spot removal products. You can easily end up with a yellow / rust color where it was once cream colored. You may even end up with a hole. Knowing what stain removal products are safe and how to use them is important.

6. Differential shrinkage. The fiber used in the edge binding may be different than other materials in the rug. They rug will shirnk unevenly and edges can curl up, refusing to lay flat.

Scott Warrington
 
Sep 5, 2008
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Ontario
www.expertcarpet-care.com
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Richard Baldwin
#19
I find it amusing how everyone gets nervous about cleaning wool area rugs. Clean them the same way you clean carpets, just dont use any strong spotters and dont crank the heat up too much. Remember, this is a natural fabric, it is not plastic like most carpet, so the fibre is more delicate and susceptible to staining. I like to prespray with a fairly mild prespray and gently bonnet with a hand bonnet, then extract as usual, and groom. Finally, you want to spray some acetic or citric acid over the freshly cleaned carpet to help keep it from browning or dyes running, especially on the fringes. Fan dry in a warm, dry well ventilated area. For urine soaked rugs, you will need to take extra steps.
 

AleighJc

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Nov 9, 2016
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Meeko
#20
Hi, new here and I think its hard to clean the Wool rugs. They must dry clean! The other all options are useless! Because I tried all the things which shared by the different people on internet!
 
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