Coupler

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Kyle8

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Oct 22, 2016
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#1
I changed my coupler the other day and i was checking it today just to make sure everything was ok and noticed a crack. Im ordering a new coupler today.Everything is still working and tight . Anyone with any info or help would be much appreciated.
 

ACP

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Apr 9, 2014
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Bjorn Marshall
#3
Just make sure it's rated to handle what it needs too, shouldn't Crack that easily.

Sometimes makes sense to change belts at the same time because some machine you have to remove coupler to do that. No sure what machine you have though
 

rob allen

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#4
Could have set up in a warehouse for awhile and dry rotted. Or it's offline when you installed it.
 

Qwikdry

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#6
if you don't want to order one Kyle, i am up in Brigham City, Utah. their is a place in Corrine just 5-10 minutes to the west they have every coupler or belt pulley, or anything you can think of. K & K Bearing of Corrine. i saw couplers in there when i was picking up a 5.5" drive pulley for my truckmount. you will just need to know the shaft size.
 

longkenn

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#7

Kyle8

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Oct 22, 2016
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#8
if you don't want to order one Kyle, i am up in Brigham City, Utah. their is a place in Corrine just 5-10 minutes to the west they have every coupler or belt pulley, or anything you can think of. K & K Bearing of Corrine. i saw couplers in there when i was picking up a 5.5" drive pulley for my truckmount. you will just need to know the shaft size.
Thanks
 

SRD

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#11

Kevin Dumas

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Aug 31, 2008
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#12
Regarding the "orange" Hytrel coupling sleeves, they will take much more torque than the "black" EPDM sleeves but the temperature limits on Hytrel is lower than the EPDM type.

I believe a lot of coupler failures on truckmounts are heat related.
Temperature limits on the black sleeves is 275 degrees and I have tested many tm's with a laser thermometer and have seen temperatures of 350-375 on the flange closest to the engine. Even higher if the exhaust is routed close to the coupler.

You also need different flanges for the Hytrel sleeve.
 

seagrtj

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Jun 28, 2011
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#14
Just make sure you measure the the gaps between hubs correctly according to the coupler specs. You could be putting too much stress on it under load if the measurements are off
 

Kyle8

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Oct 22, 2016
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#15
Is there room enough to slide the flange closest to the blower back to change your coupler sleeve or do you have to loosen up the blower or engine to change it?
Just take the engine bolts off took about 15min
 

Kyle8

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Oct 22, 2016
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#16
Just make sure you measure the the gaps between hubs correctly according to the coupler specs. You could be putting too much stress on it under load if the measurements are off
I think it was to tight honestly thays why it cracked
 

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