Boxxer 421 Heat issue

Welcome to our Community
Wanting to join the rest of our members? Feel free to sign up today.
Sign up

shawncas

New Member
Dec 28, 2010
5
0
0
TN
Real Name
SHAWN M CASADEVALL
Business Location
United States
#1
To start, has been a pleasure following the forums here for a few days now...

With that said. One of my vans which I have owned a while now, (few years, Boxxer 421 with less than 1200 hours on a NEW Briggs Engine... Original one crapped out.)

Unit has never been a primary clean unit for me. but other than constant, little issues and the need to replace engine it has run solid. 230-260 degree heat by end of pre-spray has never been an issue.

Month ago I took it to Interlink to get a service done on the unit, the only real problem they saw was that the throttle and thus RPM were apparently too high. (Had run this RPM since new or at least unadjusted. Whether by coincidence, or something shortly after dropping the throttle I began having issues getting to full heat.. Diverter valve arm throttling, light engaging, etc, but very hard time getting up to temperature and remaining there. Was now taking 10 minutes or more to break the 200 degree mark, sometimes getting to 230 or so, but then randomly dropping down rapidly under normal cleaning use. (Same wand, same tips.) Even as much as to drop all temperature showing on gauge by completion of a 30 minute job. (Very random acting.)

Then decide to take it to Jon Don, they do a full service, etc. I mention the throttle adjust which he inspects and claims is now a few hundred RPM below norm, and that this could be my issue... He adjusts the throttle back, runs the wand for a while and unit remains at heat. Of course assuming the unit is fixed I drive 2 hours home and prepare for my big night of cleaning under proper heat again.......

Same issues as described..

Have noticed when we seem to be having the most heat issues, I am getting surplus steam blasting from exhaust which I have never noticed before......?

Currently, Interlink nor Jon Don have any clue as to what the problem may be...

Suggestions please? Before I drive it 2 hours in either direction to Jon Don or Interlink again.
 
Feb 22, 2011
11
0
1
Arizona
Real Name
Clint Morrill
Business Location
United States
#2
I would check your vacuum level at full throttle it should read 14"hg, also make sure that the divertor is switching properly. Temperature control being out of calibration can also have it diverting too soon
 

wandwizard

Randy Dockins
Premium VIP
Nov 12, 2008
7,699
2,521
113
Real Name
Randy Dockins
Business Location
United States
#3
You've probably already read this, but maybe this can help. Here is some advice from the Boxxer 421 manual. Almost certainly one of these things is causing your problem. You should easily be able to rule some of them out one at a time and hone in on what is the problem. My guess is you have a heat exchanger leak which will require service anyway. Your engine should be set at 3000 rpm at full throttle. A little more than that won't hurt a thing, but much under that could cause performance issues. I do not think that the extra steam out of the exhaust is normal from what you are saying and I would really make sure you have no leaks in either of your heat exchangers. I think this may be your whole problem. It may just be something needs to be tightened, but unless you have a forklift handy you won't be able to do it yourself.

2.0. Unable to achieve normal cleaning solution temperature
2.1. System is in Divert mode or temperature control knob is turned down. Inspect
divert switch and temperature control. Change or adjust.
2.2. Diverter valve is not closing completely. Inspect diverter valve for proper
operation. Adjust linkage as necessary.
2.3. Diverter and hot water dump systems will not switch into "Cleaning" mode.
Refer to qualified service technician to test system.
2.4. Engine RPM is too low. Check RPM with accurate tachometer and adjust as
necessary to 3000 RPM.
(Any small engine shop can do this if you can't or just install a Tiny Tach.)
2.5. Cleaning solution flow is too great. Measure flow at cleaning tool.
2.5.1. Cleaning tool jet is too large or worn out. Inspect jet. Replace if necessary.
2.5.2. Cleaning solution pressure is too high. Adjust pressure to normal. Inspect
pressure gauge for accurate reading.
2.6. Heat exchangers have hard water scale build up internally. Descale system.

SECTION VI. MISCELLANEOUS
1.0. Water from exhaust
1.1. The recovery tank has been filled with foam or overfilled with water. Remove
recovery tank lid and inspect. If full, drain tank then inspect high-level shutoff switch for
proper operation. Clean or replace switch as necessary.
1.1.1. If foam is observed in recovery tank, use defoamer on carpet being cleaned.
1.2. Condensation. This will be more pronounced in cool weather and humid climates.
Observe how long this condition persists after starting machine. If it is only until the
machine warms up, it is normal.
1.3. A heat exchanger is leaking. Change the diverter mode switch back and forth
between Divert and Heat Exchange mode. Observe which condition causes water to be
expelled from exhaust. This would be my guess is your problem.
1.3.1. If water is expelled while switch is in Heat Exchange mode, the engine exhaust
afterburner heat exchanger is leaking internally. Remove and test. Replace as
necessary.

1.3.2. If water is expelled while switch is in Divert mode, the blower exhaust heat
exchanger is leaking. Remove and test. Replace as necessary.


http://hydra.hannadbs.com/Portals/0/manuals/ts/boxxer_trblshoot.pdf
You may want to call Hydramaster technical support about this. http://hydra.hannadbs.com/WhyHydramaster/CompanyInfo/ContactUs.aspx
 
Jun 10, 2018
1
0
1
Real Name
Matt Klinger
#4
I would check your vacuum level at full throttle it should read 14"hg, also make sure that the divertor is switching properly. Temperature control being out of calibration can also have it diverting too soon
If the diverter doesn't seem to be switching properly what should I look for?

My unit is an older unit but has been run for the past three years without issue. It has about 5,600 hours on it. The motor was replaced three years ago and upgraded to a 23 hp. I am not sure on how many hours are on the motor but but I am guessing less that 1500. My diverter will kick on but not kick off. The water gets super hot and eventually overheats. I can adjust the heat control down and it keep heating...

Any help is appreciated, thanks
 

The Magician

Active Member
Dec 2, 2008
457
115
43
Ohio
Real Name
Jimmy Nardella
#5
T check your diverter rubber hoses they can be cracked. Clean out the brass plugs by the diverter hoses
 

wandwizard

Randy Dockins
Premium VIP
Nov 12, 2008
7,699
2,521
113
Real Name
Randy Dockins
Business Location
United States
#6
If the diverter doesn't seem to be switching properly what should I look for?

My unit is an older unit but has been run for the past three years without issue. It has about 5,600 hours on it. The motor was replaced three years ago and upgraded to a 23 hp. I am not sure on how many hours are on the motor but but I am guessing less that 1500. My diverter will kick on but not kick off. The water gets super hot and eventually overheats. I can adjust the heat control down and it keep heating...

Any help is appreciated, thanks
I've never had the diverter remain closed before, but what was mentioned above about the vacuum hoses would be the very first thing I'd check. However, it's been my experience, that when a vacuum line either cracks or comes off completely normally the diverter won't engage at all. When my machine got that old my diverter or actually the actuator had to be replaced. Fortunately they're not too expensive. I believer the temperature control module controls it. I just had mine replaced at Jondon not long ago because water got to it and shorted it out. You also might want to inspect all the wires going to the temperature control knob and the diverter switch and make sure they're all nice and tight. If you can't get this fixed yourself I'd suggest taking it in. Sometimes that's just the best way to go.

I've never had it happen or heard of it happening, but it's possible your actuator could be either out of alignment or just getting old and needs replaced. You probably could do that yourself if you want to tackle it.