What is the temp gauge saying? If it is getting hot I think it would heat good. If the coolant level gets low it still should heat as long as it is working normally. Just not as well. Also if the coolant is changed/flushed you need to make sure that you put in more coolant than is standard in a van because of the Bane tanks.
Back to the hoses- The hose going from the radiator to the tank will, I would think, get only warm at best or not at all if the coolant is not circulating thru the coils.
I know it’s a pain in the butt to get at but behind the tank where the radiator hose goes in to the 120 gallon tank, is there a splice in the hose that goes into the tank where the temperature control valve originally was. When I removed mine I had to put this plastic splice right there and then clamp on both sides. If it was going to plug up it might occur there. It just sounds like there’s a blockage somewhere. If it is taken apart there you could carefully determine if you’re getting flow for the radiator.
Keep in mind I’m basing this on my Bane Clene which was a 1999 paramount. Things may have changed since then. I’m not being an expert but if I can help at all, I will. Thanks, Jim
You can try pulling a vacuum on the system using the hoses that are easily accessible (likely readily accessible at the heater core). If it's obstruction free in both directions (one direction may give you trouble), then use the vacuum to prime it with distilled water if it checks out.
I still think you have an obstruction, a delaminated hose or even just a collapsed hose if one line feeding the tank gets hot or warm and the other doesn't. It tells me that some coolant is eventually getting there, but not enough for any appreciable heating because of the restricted line.
Zinc swivel fittings in TM's heating systems are infamous for this, they rust internally and choke down the flow and then cause heating problems. These types of fittings need to be either serviced or replaced every so often, unlike the other noble metals through out the rest of the system that only mildly scale unless run in very hard water area's.
i re[laced the two hoses going from the heater core and radiator also tried too get the air out of the lines but it stillnot getting hot i drain the water out of the tank when i hooked the new hoses up i blew on the hose goin in and water came out of the coil and the return hose
ok jim i spent most of the day on the bane today i blew air into inlet line and nothing would come out of the coil i replaced both lines so ita between the inlet too the tank and the coil outley Nothing it looks like i should be able too blow air out too the outlet side
Have you pulled a vacuum on both sides of the coil. Clearly there is an internal obstruction in the coil. What is the coil made of? Knowing what metal it is I can give advice on how to dissolve the blockage under a vacuum. Since one side gets warm, a small amount of fluid is passing, otherwise it would be Stone cold on both feed and return lines.
I was told you can buy a coil, have to remove tank, wrap from around tank then find a welder that can cut side open, v and elf on New coil, can't be any water what so ever, completely dry, can explode with electric welding. Think it needs to be TIG welding. It's a SOB of a problem. I had to plug to fittings because water came out, meaning hole in coil somewhere. Then heater inside tank over night. I bought a Genesis 59 said screw it.
It is stainless steel. You should be able to blow air thru it. The coil is significantly less diameter than the radiator hose. Where it reduces down would I think be a problem area. Can’t remember if it is just outside the tank or inside the tank. Still thinking it is a partial blockage. On Mikey’s board there’s a guy, Lee Stockwell who used to run Bane units for years. He’s very mechanically inclined. He might be of assistance to you. Either him or his son Justin. Maybe you could PM them if the problem continues. Too bad the coils were not easy to remove. You could have the one in my old tank