Any opinion on the new Sandia Optimizer? | TruckMount Forums #1 Carpet Cleaning Forums

Any opinion on the new Sandia Optimizer?

StevenB.

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1 1/2 inch hose barb is a design flaw. 75 feet with a 2 inch hose is better in every way than the 1 1/2 inch hose. Changing out the barb is very difficult due to design of waste tank. No APO/ or Auto fill makes it suitable for smaller jobs not so much for the larger size jobs. If the fresh water tank or waste tank has water in it you will be looking at a difficult situation trying to access the wires, vac hose and water connections. I know this because I have the same machine with 2 3 stage 5.7's and 150 psi pump.
It's a serviceable machine that is fairly easy to load and unload. It has reasonable weight. Mine is heavily modified from original design. It's not much to look at after 8 yrs of service but it works better than new and easier to maintain.
Too many design flaws like the 1 1/2 inch hose barb. 50 foot restriction No APO/ Autofill. That means 360's or Trex are unpractical. That's a significant concern because with a porty, mechanical agitation becomes more mandatory than with a truckmount. So a 175 is what I Use and it works but its heavy and awkward around a bunch of cords and hoses.
I think the Mytee Breeze or the Cross American Cub would be better choices feature for feature than the model you are looking at. The C/A cub because of its light weight single cord power for Shorter hose lengths. 30 feet of hose a 175 or a CRB would be a potent. It would be really easy to add a Mytee Hot turbo as well.
As for the breeze its economical has 2 inch barb, realistic factory option for Apo and Auto fill. Those two models will certainly be in the same price range as the sandia you are looking at with more upside imho.
 
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DAWNCHEM

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Thanks for the info. They do offer an auto pump out auto fill for the machine. Ill keep looking around for another reasonably priced machine to add to our stock.
 

Jim Ellis

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The 1.5" hose barb is an issue - also they have a model that includes a 2000 watt heater + the 6.6 motors on 2 cords which is strange considering that's about 5300 watts - I would look elsewhere.
 

CCWorks

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This looks good, I wonder if it is at a time rated reimbursement.

Warranty: Lifetime on body, 3-years on vacuum motors, 1-year on 300 psi pump and all electrical components
 

JRH

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Steambrites version has the option of 2" hose barb and option of heat ... no harm having heat even just as a preheater during downtime , you dont have to use it .
The Sandia body is selling quite well in the UK , especially the little 6gallon version , and getting good user reviews ... and by all accounts the plastic body is of a fairly high quality .


http://www.steam-brite.com/clean-st...leaning-machine-hose-wand-126500-p-13737.html
 

DAWNCHEM

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Well it was ultimately not up to me and we did get a couple of the dual 6.6 heated 12 gallon units. So far I am fairly happy with them. They feel pretty powerful and seem to work really well.
 

Jim Ellis

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Well it was ultimately not up to me and we did get a couple of the dual 6.6 heated 12 gallon units. So far I am fairly happy with them. They feel pretty powerful and seem to work really well.
I'm guessing Sandia has restricted the power the 6.6 on the heater cord can draw to allow the 2000 watt heater to not blow breakers. You are probably only getting about 150 cfm (in series) & 165" of lift vs 215" & 170 cfm. Just a guess but I'm sure they crippled the heater side 6.6 to pull this off with 2 cords.

Sent from my SGH-T679 using TMF Forums mobile app
 

DAWNCHEM

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Yeah I am not versed on how these things work at all. I dont know what the true measurements would be or how its setup but they swear they are getting 210". I dont know about CFM. I have a pic of the motors.
 

Jim Ellis

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If they didn't restrict the motor on the heater side it would an interesting magic trick - the heater with cold water to start will crank up to it's full 2000 watts briefly and back down to about 1500 or so watts when the temperature rises - the motor runs about 1580 watts in a series config (down from about 1620) open - no constriction - I have 6.6's on my ETM that I've tested the voltage/watts on. Best case would be about 3000 watts with the heater cranking down as the water warms up and the vac motor with additional constriction (vac hose on).

Something would have to give - I'm assuming it would be the vac motors since they can operate with even less watts without damage although performance will suffer. Maybe I'm missing something but I can't see it working at full power this way.
 
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JRH

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If they didn't restrict the motor on the heater side it would an interesting magic trick - the heater with cold water to start will crank up to it's full 2000 watts briefly and back down to about 1500 or so watts when the temperature rises - the motor runs about 1580 watts in a series config (down from about 1620) open - no constriction - I have 6.6's on my ETM that I've tested the voltage/watts on. Best case would be about 3000 watts with the heater cranking down as the water warms up and the vac motor with additional constriction (vac hose on).

Something would have to give - I'm assuming it would be the vac motors since they can operate with even less watts without damage although performance will suffer. Maybe I'm missing something but I can't see it working at full power this way.
The heater might not be exactly 2000w .
how about if its made up of a 1000w and a 600w heater joined together ... each is powered by a separate cord ... that might work ?
 

Jim Ellis

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The heater might not be exactly 2000w .
how about if its made up of a 1000w and a 600w heater joined together ... each is powered by a separate cord ... that might work ?
Interesting - maybe so - 2 20 amp circuits would work if it's 2 600 watt heaters - one on each cord - not much heat though - 2000 watts has a hard time keeping up even from a hot water source.
 

JRH

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Interesting - maybe so - 2 20 amp circuits would work if it's 2 600 watt heaters - one on each cord - not much heat though - 2000 watts has a hard time keeping up even from a hot water source.
i's say it goes something like that ... there is a machine over with us using a similar trick .

If the 6.6 measures low 12-13amp in the extractor ... they might get away with one 1000w ? and 600w on the other cord .dont know if there is an 800w available . Other wise its 600w like u say .
 
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StevenB.

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The heater might not be exactly 2000w .
how about if its made up of a 1000w and a 600w heater joined together ... each is powered by a separate cord ... that might work ?
I had the same body with 2 2 stage 5.7s and a 1000 watt element wired to each circuit. I did manage to remove the heater and upgrade the vacs. It stock form it was prone to blowing circuits. It was much improved with the 3 stage vacs and a adjustable 15 or 20 amp Mytee hot turbo. I'm uncertain how well the hot turbo could function with that pump. I'm certain it could get it up past warm.