age old question URINE which is best?

Todd the Cleaner

Todd Cottino
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I know we all like saving steps, but sometimes they are counter productive. Mixing a bacteria with an acid is counterproductive as it neutralizes the bacteria. Pretreat with the acid, flush with water claw (most important step for subsurface contamination), do normal cleaning (Bio Break pre-spray with Flex Ice rinse is good along with other combinations) which should deal with most non urine dog odors, post spray problem spots with a bacteria (getting to pad level is best). Using acid and bacteria separately will give you better results.

I am not recommending an acid rinse at 1 to 320, but an acid pre-treatment at 1 to 5 dilution. This is acidic enough to drop the pH of ammonia salts from 12 to 9 pH neutralizing the odor. If sales is a valid poll then use of acid rinses over alkaline rinses is 6 to 4 for our customers. Of course, we do not know how many just rinse with water.
When water clawing which is best in your opinion, acid at 1:5 or an OSR product such as PetZone? I've used both and I think I like one better than the other but I'm interested in what you have to say.
 

Chris Henry

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When water clawing which is best in your opinion, acid at 1:5 or an OSR product such as PetZone? I've used both and I think I like one better than the other but I'm interested in what you have to say.
I think Tom recommends the acid pretreatment first because you need to get the Alkaline salts dissolved to foster a better environment for the post bacteria treatment to be effective.
OSR is an alkaline side product that won't work on dissolving those alkaline uric salts. Pet Zone is neutral pH so again it won't dissolve the salts.
Thanks to Tom, I realize urine stain and odor removal is a separate two step process.
1. Dissolve and neutralize alkaline salts using acid pretreatment.
Rinse. Rinse. Rinse
2. Apply post bacterial and encapsulant treatment. (Pet Zone) Neutral pH.
OSR would likely help with stain removal, but with the salts still present, odor will still linger.
 

Todd the Cleaner

Todd Cottino
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I think Tom recommends the acid pretreatment first because you need to get the Alkaline salts dissolved to foster a better environment for the post bacteria treatment to be effective.
OSR is an alkaline side product that won't work on dissolving those alkaline uric salts. Pet Zone is neutral pH so again it won't dissolve the salts.
Thanks to Tom, I realize urine stain and odor removal is a separate two step process.
1. Dissolve and neutralize salts using acis pretreatment.
Rinse. Rinse. Rinse
2. Apply post bacterial and encapsulant treatment. (Pet Zone) Neutral pH.
OSR would likely help with stain removal, but with the salts still present, odor will still linger.
I agree, I've moved to using acid as well.
 

wandwizard

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Correct. But what's the go to method for removal?Clearly vacuum thoroughly. I've always gone heavy enzyme w solvent and thoroughly rinse. But there are some jobs that it just lingers. Used ozone. Put bio modifier down and let it sit for 2 days and went back to rinse. Still the odor was there. I never want to tell someone there's nothing I can do.
Sounds like you're missing one important step if I understand you correctly. I've had very good success doing pretty much exactly what you said, but I post apply a good odor treatment after a thorough cleaning and rake it in. I still favor Proliminator mixed normally in a small pump up sprayer. No matter how thorough the cleaning if you don't put something down for residual odor the chances of a persistent odor are very high imho. I'm sure there are other deodorizers that will do the job just fine, but I tend to stick with what I know works and Proliminator works, period. I never do a job with pet hair and dander odors w/o using a post treatment.
 

Ken Raddon

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We mix bio modifier extreme with fiber rinse 50/50 and spray or soak then water claw. It's gets incredible results without having to treat and flush multiple times with multiple products. I know your not suppose to mix acid with enzymes and all that noise. But at some point we started experimenting and started getting better and better results.

Surely you don't mix them 50/50 and spray them down without diluting them???
 

Mr. Esteamy

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We mix bio modifier extreme with fiber rinse 50/50 and spray or soak then water claw. It's gets incredible results without having to treat and flush multiple times with multiple products. I know your not suppose to mix acid with enzymes and all that noise. But at some point we started experimenting and started getting better and better results.

Surely you don't mix them 50/50 and spray them down without diluting them???
Sorry , we mix them 50/50 in a injection sprayer and soak areas ; so 1-8 dilution . However when it comes to cat urine or smaller concentrated areas of odor that are left after Initial flush we certainly do apply full concentrate to get the results we're looking for.
 

Rick J

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I agree, I've moved to using acid as well.
Thread seems to be getting mixed up. Started out as a question on Urine, and got switched over to wet dirty doggy odor.
Two different things.

Reading some of the replies, not sure which is being addressed.

I have pretty much come to the conclusion , in vacant rentals the dirty doggy odor is almost impossible to remediate. Cause they are rentals and really abused. Trying to fix quickly, (low cost, that the owner PM wants ) is darn near impossible!