Thread: E-Tes (Reviews)

going to see one at distributer in march, should be interesting demo. Sisiter company has one in charleston, but it is always on a job. That's a good thing, just to many things i need right now, Box Truck, El Diablo, Ti Wand, 360. Need to hit the lottery.

I saw an E-Tes and the full setup at Interlink supply. Looks pretty good, put out some pretty good heat. I think if anything is get the E-Tes. Because I think they would be great for crawlspaces to get some heat down there. I sure could have used one last year, but ended up piping the LGR down through a heat register. Either that or the Drieaz Dragon, for the big crawlspaces.

My latest job: 4000+ sqft home. Water heater in attic leaked. Water running down walls second and first floor. Est. running for 2-3 days. Water running out of garage. Wood floor in kitchen. Carpet and pad 2nd floor and 1st. Pulled pad and carpet. Set up Friday 2pm Monday all dry. Walls and wood floor dry. Documented. Used E-TES and Trailer mounted system. Total drying time about 67 hours.

T.E.S is a system. The E-T.E.S. is only one Tex box (heater) powered by electricity. E TES is an enhancement to a conventional drying system.
I have used the e tes for a couple of years now and for the price of a good LGR dehumidifier ($2500) they are a good tool to have. I have dried wet material with the e tes that I could not have dried cost effectively with conventional methods. I use mine on hard to dry areas, such as sub floors, exterior walls in the winter and cool, damp finished basements with concrete slab floors. I also use the e tes on class 1 jobs were some wall to wall carpet and some sheetrock and baseboard is wet. The e tes can dry these jobs quickly so I can keep the price low enough for the homeowner to hire me.
I have two 240V e tes and most of the homes I dry have a 240V electric clothes dryer plug I use. I have had an electrician put in a temporary plug for me a couple of times.
WTR HEATX $205 per 24 hours of run time and $25 for the air mover. In my area I charge $220 for the e tes and $30 for the air mover. I think $300 is pushing it.

Although i've seen the e-tes and tes units we used the thermobile ele 6400 ($1500) its a self contain unit no need to tie up and air mover, its also themostate control,let me also recommend the ITA75 (www.driheat.com) this unit is only $4500.00 uses less fuel than a tes and a lot easier to manage talk to Ken Horvath

They are amazing we have 4, 2 220 units and 2 110's the 220's defiantly get a lot hotter but the 110's are no joke either, you can dry block walls in 1-2 days hard wood floors in the matter of a couple i really have not met a challenge that the e tes can no handle, do how ever be careful were you duct them into ceilings stay away from bathrooms with mirrors, it will melt the adhesive and the mirror will fall.

I used E-tes units when I had my business. They are great! I never got to see the TES in action on a job by having to rent one from them, but would recommend it to those in the restoration business for the long term. The unit will definitely pay itself off as long as you have the business to support it.

For the record. I make a competitive product. The Eliminator. I am familiar with other equipment and I have used the E-TES240. I have concerns regarding the electrical draw of both the 120volt and 240volt units. These are my opinions based on the information on their website and my personal inspection of the 120volt unit at an Interlink store. I will only address the E-TES120 in this post.

Interlink says the 120volt unit uses 14.6 amps per cord. On their website they also claim 2000watts heater element. 2000 watts divided by 120volts equals 16.66 amps per cord. National electric code does not allow us to use more than 80% of the maximum of a circuit if we use that circuit for linger than 3 hours. A 15 amp circuit can not correctly support more than 12 amps and a 20 amp circuit would be no more than 16 amps continuous. The E-TES120 uses a 15amp plug. This allows you to plug into 15 amp circuits for those who don't know the NEC compliance rules and subsequent liability issues. I think the 120volt model should only come with a 20 amp plug. Unless the 2000watt claim on their website is true and they run up to 16.66 amps per cord. Then you shouldn't plug it into a building, ever?

Perhaps there is an explanation and I welcome any facts which change or correct the above.