My M-12 circuit light indcater burned 2 times since july 23 i bought it in feb, 2011. Both times i plugged into dryer adapter it was the only time i ever used adapter. Talked to techs they dont think thats the problem. After I fixed it the first time i used it all week and light worked & porty with no problem. Then I had to use adapter and as soon as i plugged it in(M-12 not running) it burned. I ran 2 toasters with dryer plug-in tonight no problem. I am having it serviced but it still works and i have to use it. Thank for any advice
Rick, Can you open up your mytee dryer adaptor and PM me a couple pics of the wiring? Or just check and make sure the red and black wires are on the gold screws (on the receptacle) and the white wire (if it's the 4-wire model) goes to the white screw. If it's the 3-wire model you may have a green instead of a white, it still should go to the white screw, not the gold. If you find them reversed DON'T just swap them, more is involved.
Thanks Dan it wouldnt let me PM pics for some reason if you need more pics I can take them, not working because of pouring rain! I hope the dryer plug-in is the problem this thing is driving me nuts. Thanks again Rick
View attachment 7627 View attachment 7628 View attachment 7629 Thanks Dan it wouldnt let me PM pics for some reason if you need more pics I can take them, not working because of pouring rain! I hope the dryer plug-in is the problem this thing is driving me nuts. Thanks again Rick
Your pics don't show the screws.... They will be gold colored on one side and silver on the other. The red and black wires should be on the gold side and the white wire should be on the silver side. Are they?
the red & black are on the gold side. The white wire is on a silver screw the green goes to a green screw. In between the green & white is a screw with nothing going to it, it is un-threaded like something should go there? I dont know if i can take a pic of it, I will try. Thanks
one outlet..2 separate feeds....?? look at the outlet...there should be a bridge that connects both the hot screws and a bridge that connects the 2 neutral screws... is the bridge that connects the 2 neutral screws cut...like the bridge that connects the 2 hot screws...the bridge sets between the screws....looks like it is wired correct...ground and neutral are normally on the same side....
If the bridge on the neutral side were cut half hi machine would be dead and he said it still worked, good to check everything though. Would an open neutral burn up his circuit locator? I don't think so, but I'll have to think a little on that one...
Jim it looks like bridge is correct, i put 2 pics of screw with no wire attached. I ran 2 toasters with dryer plug-in last night. Could it be the customers dryer plug-in, there dryer works fine? Thanks guys for taking the time to help mytee is sending new part i dont want it to happen again.
Here is the wiring diagram for your Mytee M12. Maybe you could have someone with electrical know-how check your machine against the diagram: http://www.mytee.com/data/M-12/M-12-WiringDiagram.pdf The problem doesn't appear to be the adaptor, inside the machine is the only other logical place to look.
not really....the 220 coming in only has 3 wires...2 hot and it looks like one ground...and it looks like they have grabbed a neutral from some where and ran it over...if the bridge is cut on the neutral then the other outlet is still running using the ground to complete the circuit instead for the neutral...if this is the case then it could be back feeding and shorting out the light.... in short...the neutral and the ground are pretty much the same thing...they both will complete a circuit and thing will run...the green or bare ground wires are really just physical grounds..to divert the electricity...think about the old style homes that have the 2 prong outlet...same thing....they have a neutral ground to complete the circuit.... so if that bridge is cut then make a small jumper from screw to screw and it should be fine...if the bridge is not cut then more pictures and info will be needed.....
I need to leave here in a second..get me a picture of both sides of the outlet so I can look at them...if you don't have it fixed by the time I get back in today we will go over the entire thing and figure it out...it sounds like something really simple..just got to trace it down........
maybee these pics will help , steambrite is going to call me later they might have me ship adapter back. thanks again
OK..they are using a neutral ground..see how the white and the green wire are wire nutted together coming off the 220 ( grey) cord..then the white goes to neutral and the green goes to ground....so it probably getting a bleed over...or a back feed....think of a indicator light as a weak fuse....IF it is what I think it is and your getting a back feed..( which is really common in most panel boxes )..then the weakest point is the light filament... you have 2 different types of panel boxes..the older style have a ground/neutral bar that both the ground wires and the neutral wires are attached to... the other newer type....have separate ground bar for the ground wires and a separate bar for the neutral wire....this does 2 things....it gets rid of bleed over from the wire...and it makes the green wire a physical ground..not a neutral ground.... so more then likely..what is happening is that one of those wire are bleeding over and causing a back feed and sending a bit more power the the light can handle... If I was standing over it what I would do is disconnect the green wire and see if that stops the bleed over...because in reality....you really have no physical ground there anyway...and if something were to happen you are going to get knocked on your butt no matter what.... or....you can get a 4 wire pig tail with a white..black..red..and a green wire...wire the box up the right way and just make an adapter for the 3 wire outlets..... mind you I am not standing in front of your equipment looking at it..but going off of what you are saying and the pictures...this would be the first thing I would try......let me know......
Thanks jim, how would i know i stopped the bleeding over after disconecting the green wire? My M-12 runs fine now but theres no circuit indicater hooked up (its in mail)
if you know how to read a meter then you can tell....red meter lead on the green or the white and the black lead to ground...but your going to have to find a physical ground...not the one already wired in....and your going to have to do this under power and if you are not sure or real comfortable with electricity..then don't do it...your playing with some high voltage and some times it does not like to play nice... can you get me a picture of how the indicator light is wired..is it power in and power out to something else.....or is it just power in and then it goes to ground.....
these are pics I already had I can take more. The wires go into the wire harness. The black box is not in it now, but m-12 runs with out it if that helps. Thanks Jim
that thing got dangerously hot....that is a indication of either a back feed..or...it is drawing the power to hard.... if you take a machine and run it on an inadequate cord you will notice that the cord gets hot...the reason it does is because it is trying to draw the electricity that it needs thru it....the machine is drawing the electrical current....if the current is fighting to run the machine then the amps start to raise up and things start getting hot and melting....get me a few pictures of different angles of how it is now...
