Chemspec 860. SS 100 gal tank. I knew I had a problem with the lower float (didnt realize how bad of one though) lol. A while back I just bypassed it, and kept working. So yesterday, the blower started throwing up, or should I say out...water. So I guess I need 2 new floats. Question is can I just get 2 of the same make/model or do I need to get exact matches to whats in there now? Can someone recommend what type I need to get and where? Thanks for your help. Mark
If you want the same call 702 362-3050 talk to frank and tell him Roberto from Lancaster tall you about. he can also help you with any problem on your ACE860 i have one they are great units
Thanks, I like mine too. I purchased it used. I think the biggest complaint I have with it, it's very loud. Otherwise, it's been a great machine. Mark
all they are is a on/off switch my father-n-law builds control panels for waste water pumps and stuff he looked at it and looked at the wiring schematics and said lets go to granger and it's never skipped a beat since
That float switch you have there in the pix is a pond float switch It’s a ball Bering tilt switch rated at 15/20 amps and there is not much that can go wrong with it Maybe it’s your wiring that’s at fault or you have accidentally knocked a wire off some wear Do a continuity test with a multi meter with it and that will tell you if it’s broken or not If it shows circuit to no circuit when you move it up and down then its fine and you have a wiring problem If it’s showing circuit or no circuit all the time then you need to replace it You should not be paying big money for it though go to a proper garden centre and ask for a pond float switch The answer to your question do I need to get the same make and model depends Ask them what the amperage it can hold if they don’t know ask to see the specification sheet that comes with the switch You need a heavy duty 15 amp switch if you go out and buy a box standard float switch it will probably be rated at 1/2 an amp and you will blow/weld/arch the switch together knackering it I don’t know the wiring schematic of this machine but using an ordinary float switch you will probably have to add a relay if it not wired to a rely already Sounds like too much bother to me just go for a 15amp load float switch and you can’t go far wrong I will have a look on the net for you soon I can get you that exact same model of float switch now! But it would be from the UK But please please first of all test or have someone test the float switch to see if it’s blown or your wiring is up s@@t creek
This is as near as dam it I could find for you in the states I would go for the first one as its only $10 and the switch is revisable from N/O to N/C by changing the black wire over and 10 amps will do the job http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-FLOAT-SWITC...|66:4|65:12|39:1|240:1318|301:0|293:1|294:200 http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-NIB-FLOAT-S...|66:4|65:12|39:1|240:1318|301:0|293:1|294:200 http://cgi.ebay.com/MAC-3-Floatatio...|66:4|65:12|39:1|240:1318|301:0|293:1|294:200 http://cgi.ebay.com/0782-Dayton-3BY...|66:4|65:12|39:1|240:1318|301:0|293:1|294:200 http://cgi.ebay.com/0962-Dayton-3BY...|66:4|65:12|39:1|240:1318|301:0|293:1|294:200
I new this was not making sense before and now its making even less sense If the top one is for auto kill (of the engine), bottom is for the auto pump out. If your lower float switch has supposeably gone then how on earth can your blower be chucking out water through the exhorts
JB, I know there is more than one problem here, besides the floats. I am also replacing the solenoid valve for the apo. I apologize if this is confusing to you. These are the thing I know that are wrong with it at this point. All of which are in the process of being replaced. 1. Solenoid valve. (which has been removed for some time now) 2. Lower float. (which connected to above) 3. Upper float. (it no longer kills the engine when water gets to high) Thanks for your help, Mark
Never used or seen an APO unit so know little about it; what is the job of a solenoid valve on it for Obviously it’s an electrical device and therefore will be wired up in circuit to your APO float switch I'm going to have a quick guess; it’s a valve that opens the tap on the waste tank (instead of you turning by hand) to let the water out which is wired up between the APO switch and pump If now what your saying is both switches are blown leads me to curiosity even more as the engine stop float switch is completely independent of the APO system And sorry I take back what I said before about buying a float switch If it’s for the APO I would get one rated at 15 amps not 10 Have you tested the switches?
Yes all three of the above have been tested. And confirmed dead. I'm also new to this (tm that is). But, I am learning as I go...little by little. I should know a lot more tomorrow. I plan to replace several things....floats (hopefully the ones I picked up today will work), solenoid valve, water shut-off valve and adding a few thing to the trailer. I will let you know how it works.... Mark
