Just pick up a "lie detector" or at the wand temp gauge. Then just set it accordingly. Link-->http://cleaningsupplies.mybigcommer...Connect-Temp-Gauge-Set%2dup-[with-video].html [video=youtube;7UJy_9Jgfq8]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7UJy_9Jgfq8&feature=player_embedded[/video]
You turn the round peg with a small allen wrench. If it's used for high temp machine shut off, it looks to be set at about 260 deg. When temp needle hits round peg, it grounds and kills engine to prevent damage.
Those things are stupid the way they are set up to kill the engine. Better to have a thermostat setup to open a solenoid valve to dump water and keep working.
THat is the way Amtex truckmounts work, it reach to certain temp, then open a dump valve to let the hot water out, then cool water comes in, and it cools the machine.
If the solenoid does not open because of scale buildup, the engine kill prevents the pump and other componants from melting. Taekyon- You are showing us a picture of a temp gauge. There is no way to adjust the gauge itself. A temp gauge gets the reading from a temp sender. If you are wanting to adjust the temp then you must did it through the thermostat.
Those gauges can also be wired to act as a dump actuator. When needle hits adjustable peg it opens dump solenoid to cool. I have same gauge on my PowerClean and it is used as a high temp shut off.
I have not had one of them since a old Steam Action machine that was set up to kill the engine. What a pain is the ass, no temperature control what so ever. Is the internal wiring and contact heavy enough to run a 12V Solenoid valve to dump water? My current system works with a Prodigy Thermostat and Solenoid valve which works flawless.
Thanks for the reply's. I'm just trying to get everything figured out. I think that the gauge is the overheating engine killer. It just seems that it doesn't want to go past 180 d. and I know it should. It does have 2 lines to the dump tank, one that dribbles all the time, and the other that should spray when it gets past a certain point, and I think that is whats happening. I will attach a couple pics of what I think is the thermostat. If it is, how to adjust it?
Ok I'm learning. That's the DEMA valve. It opens and closes to help regulate pressure? So is that what opens above a certain temp to the dump tank? In the top picture, the wrapped line is solution line out of the heat exchanger, the blue hose runs to dump tank, and the black line under the DEMA valve goes to temp gauge. Just trying to understand how this all works
Give the guys at Amtex a call, I bet if there are people that know how this works and care to help you will be them. their number is 713 272 6149
The Dema valve opens when it gets to a certain temperature. This has to be controlled by a sensing device of some kind. Trace the two wires off the dema valve and tell us where they go. Where does the heavy red wire go to off the heat exchanger? To the temperature gauge on the panel? When it hits the setpoint on the temperature gauge what happens? Does it kill the engine or does it open the dema valve to dump water and cool it down. If it opens the dema and it is opening prematurely like 180 you can set the setpoint temperature higher with a small allen key. Also what machine is this.
The big red wire goes to the temp gauge, and the wires out the back of dema run to the fuse block. I have never came anywhere near the apparent set point on the gauge. It hits 180 and just stays there, no matter what. That's the problem I am trying to overcome/figure out. It's a black stallion.
Trace the wires past the fuse block, they have to go to a sensor somewhere that is dumping water at 180.
shutting down a really hot machine reguardless if it's a truckmount, car etc.. will cause heat soaking and can ruin an engine faster than dumping the overheated fluids and replenish with cooler fluids.. Gary, Is on the ball with setting it up to cool down rather than to shut down to over heat with heat soaking.... Same goes with guys who have fired HX's and the machine shuts down due to an overfilled waste tank.. get an auto pump out..
Something Ijust thought of... What if you have a 180* thermal valve that is located in the wrong place and is preventing your truckmount from heating up? :AddEmoticons04259: Sounds like a good explanation to me. I mean it fits the scenerio.
That is exactly where I am trying to go with him tracing the wires. If the panel gauge never reaches the high setpoint and kills the engine then something is regulating it. It might even be in the right place, but 180 is a little low for a sensor. I know pump sensors come like 140-160-180
:hi:Kevin a thermal relief valve does not have any wires. I don't think he said it was shutting down either. Just consistantly running at 180*. And he says he never even comes close to the set point on the gauge so right there I'm thinking it has to be a 180* thermal valve in the wrong place on this unit.:AddEmoticons04233: Or the bypass solenoid has scale buildup and does not close.
Most are manual, however I have a sensor in my cat pump loop that has two wires that come off of it and it opens a solenoid valve to cool the loop.
