From my recent posts you probably can tell I'm a newbie to rug cleaning. It is something I want to pursue more of. I have the following tools: 1. Dual motor Vacuum w/ hepa filter 2. Steamin Demon high flow extractor 3. Rotary Machine 4. Grate floor (Privacy Lattice) 5. "Wash Pit" (Tarp & PVC Pipe) These are 2 rugs I got in today: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hd5K-4OyqwA&feature=youtu.be http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WdqqL3prsa8&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL I'm thinking of just keeping it simple with these, since its my first go around. First, I'll test each color for stability. But honestly, if a color does show that it's going to bleed, what do I do? After dusting with my vacuum on the 'dusting grate', I'm thinking of just using Powr Pak prespray from Hardball chem on these, since it's an acid side prespray, scrubbing it in with a tuway-type bonnet (I don't have a shampoo brush yet. Not sure which one to get), and then flushing both sides of the rug a couple times with the Steamin Demon to remove as much soil as possible. Or should I just go for the gold and soak the thing, scrub it with LST, and rinse? Any tips, pointers, warnings would be much appreciated!
Rug #1 - vac - prespray and extract. You don't want to soak a rug with backing - it will fall apart. #2 - I thought I say a yellow stain with some bleed around it near the end of the video? Inspect - vac - turn over and vac again - repeat until no more soil "drops" out. Test for bleed - if it bleeds then use a dye stabilizer. Test for bleed in a few areas in case those yellow stains are pee. Sometimes it is easier to see urine damage from the back. This might not be a good one to pit wash for your first it does have pee in it (although I would!). As I said before - never used a Demon but from what I know they flush lots of water so could be a good unit to use. One of these days I am going to get one to play around with. If you pit wash it do you have a drying rack or a way to get it dry fast? If it does have pee in it - call the custy and explain what could happen.
Thanks Rugman. The first one actually doesn't have a backing, it's a really tight weave. What do you use as a dye stabilizer? Does treating with white vinegar actually work?
I suggest Dye Loc for the most difficult bleeders. We also now have Wool Medic which is a good dye stabilizer plus it removes salts and lipids from urine deposits and helps deodorize. I understand Paul Lucas also makes a fine dye stabilizer, but I have not used it. Vinegar can work, but if you use white vinegar from a store shelf (Which may be anywhere from 2% to 6%) you may need almost pure vinegar or a 50/50 mix with water to get the concentration of 2%+ that you need to stabilize dyes. You will also have a strong odor to work around and possibly leave an odor in the rug. Dye Loc mixes 3 ounces to a gallon (42 to 1). Saturate the are that has a problem if the bleeding is localized (maybe due to damage from urine) or soak the entire rug. Wait about 5 minutes for it to penetrate well. Then proceed with the cleaning.
Dye Loc is a great product to use. Vinegar does smell! I always use it 50/50. Can't speak for Pauls stuff but have always heard good things. That first rug has some kind of backing on it - unless I am losing my eyesight.
Hey Rugman You are indeed correct. I just looked closer. It's a woven backing, I'm not sure how it's secured. But I was able to seperate some of the yarns enough to see that the warp yarns of this rug are jute. So I'm guessing I'm better off not soaking this one? Would a surface extraction be ok after dusting if I speed dry it with an airpath? Also, both rugs show signs of slight crocking onto a white cloth. If it's slight, should I just proceed with caution? Do all rugs crock somewhat? Or should I spray both with dyelock before moving forward? Sorry for all the questions, maybe I'm being overly cautious, I don't want any surprises.
The point of washing rugs is to make money. The smart way to do that is by minimizing risk while getting the best possible results. When a customer brings you a bleeder it is their problem right up until you start cleaning. Then it is your problem. If you dye test a rug and it is a bleeder then you inform the customer and note it on the slip and have them sign. Now the liability of color migration is on them. Now the smart thing to do is offer to treat the fugitive color. You should be able to charge $1 to $2 a square foot to treat the rug with Dye-Lock. This is very profitable and it covers your tail. Trust me; you don’t want to buy customers new rugs. Then once you lock the dyes you can wash it using an acid bath like Bridgepoint’s new Wool Medic. You should be very safe. For the rare occasion when the rug still bleeds you should have Anti-Dye (ChemMax)on hand. You don’t need to panic over a bleeded, they can be very profitable. Best wishes, Barry http://www.OrientalRugTalk.com
Great advice from Barry. Call the cust and let them know the deal - get them to sign off. As far as the first one - don't wash it - extract it or encap it. Put that in a bath or on a wash floor and soak it and it will fall apart. One thing I do with bleeders - fry flat and upside down so if any dye lets go it will wick back up into the rug.
Don't learn on customers rugs. Go buy some rugs from garage sales and thrift stores and make your mistakes on those ones. You've been given enough tips here to help you... or to get you into serious trouble - because depending on how wet you get the rug, and how long it takes for you to get it dry, you could be in a lot of trouble with both tufted rugs and bleeders. Also... I feel the point of rug washing is to get the rug as clean as you possibly can, as safely as you can, and make a profit. It's not just about making money, otherwise you'd be spraying/sucking these rugs in the home for a buck a sq ft with your HWE. If you wanted to be a hack making money, while NOT cleaning the rugs in the process, you would not have gone through the trouble of setting up a better rug wash system. So you care about the work. That said, you need more experience, and then get into it never charging any lower that $2 or you won't cover the costs of your own time/labor. Lisa
I agree with all the above. Get some rugs as Lisa said to practice with. But if you have the right chems and have clients sign off properly you can clean just about anything. One thing I learned in water damage was never be afraid of water. I feel the same about rugs. I will not be afraid of a rug.
If you ruin one and have to pay for it just look at it like you paid for education. Just make sure you have good insurance and a great disclaimer.
