Prochem Performer 405 eratic RPM at high speed??

Discussion in 'Ask Our Repairmen' started by johnny916, Jun 28, 2011.

  1. johnny916 Member

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    Can't figure this one out. Replaced plugs, fuel pump, fuel filter, change blower belts, alternator belt, governor belt.


    When at high speed AND under a load (150' hose connected) I'm getting erratic RPM/idle problems.. It almost sounds as if the unit is having trouble keeping up with the demand from the blower or even not getting constant fuel. It's NOT too bad, but it is noticeable. What's even more weird is that when I pull the vac hose off the high speed RPM becomes constant again. Also, it's only occurring approx. 25% of the time.. I'll be cleaning and notice it happen in long spurts. I do not have any problems at the lower RPM setting/tooth (I believe 1900?)..

    Any advice would be great!!
  2. JimmyN New Member

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    Contact AA supply Keith
  3. crash1big Member

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    Have you checked the oil in the governor. Also check the blower belt to see if its slipping. Under a load at higher RPMs loose or old belts tend to slip and make the machine sound like its stumbling (some times). Kinda sounds like that's what it is to me. Might explain why the machine levels out when you take the vac hose off. No load. Hope this helps.
  4. johnny916 Member

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    Brand new belts everywhere.. Don't think it's the blower belts unless they're not tensioned good enough but they feel tight to me.
  5. johnny916 Member

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    Yes oil in governor is good.
  6. davenjai Member

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    Replace the relay. Find the oil filter, there is an oil switch on the oil pump, follow the wires connected to it to the relay.
  7. Joe Sabo New Member

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    Hook tack up per its instructions, set at 2400 rpm at top notch pulling, set vac release @ 14" hg. check adjustment of linkages going to the governor, inspect dipstick in governor for metal shavings, in case one of the weights has broken free. after that, compression, fuel flow, clean carburetor can all be checked.
  8. johnny916 Member

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    I noticed the belt on the air pump was real loose so I tightened it up and haven't noticed the problem after running for about 15 minutes..

    I'll have to do more testing to confirm the fix.
  9. johnny916 Member

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    By the way, how do i clean the carburetor? I replaced the air filter in that round thing, is that the carburetor?
  10. Joe Sabo New Member

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    the air pump should only oxidize the unburned hydrocarbons in the exhaust for the catalytic hx. it shouldn't affect your idling at all. yes, the carb is under the round part, pretty simple to take off and clean out by most techs. lots of linkages though to disconnect. However, if it's got as many hours on it by now, as most, it may need replacement . you can try rebuilding but it seems to be a fairly expensive but disposable carb. The jets in it can become too worn.
  11. johnny916 Member

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    So it may be the carburetor that's affecting my idle?? Where on earth am I going to find a new-used one? Should I just search for Nissan engine carb on ebay? I can't simply call the Nissan dealer for a part # because they want to know what car it's from.
  12. johnny916 Member

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    By the way, i did a whole job and did not noticed the problem, but I'm sure it will be back.
  13. johnny916 Member

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    Ok problem is back but I am noticing the bogging getting really bad when my waste tank is almost full.. So what relay are you referring to replacing?
  14. johnny916 Member

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    So the carbureter has the fuel jets inside it?
  15. davenjai Member

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    Follow the wires off the oil pump. READ Johnny! It is a cheap thing that tends to fix all sorts of problems with this machine. Even if it does not, you WILL need the relay one day.
  16. johnny916 Member

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    Got it, I'll look for it now.
  17. johnny916 Member

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    I believe I replaced the right relay. It was less than 6 inches away from the oil switch connectors just behind the cover. Impossible to unscrew without a really short screw driver. I just bought a new one and plugged it in still hanging.

    Hopefully that will get me going.
  18. davenjai Member

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    Let it hang and let me know.
  19. johnny916 Member

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    Ok after replacing oil relay I still have the same symptoms, INTERMITTENT engine bogging then a random shut down about 45-60 minutes into cleaning. The engine will start again but seems hard to start everytime it shuts down. I can then clean for another 45 minutes or so before another shut down.. Not sure if this is related but I empty the waste tank before restarting because it looks to be only inches away from touching the waste tank float switch.

    Other problems that I've observed that may or may not be related are:
    -My low water pressure switch could be out because I have ran out of water a few times in the past and the machine kept running.
    -I can hear lifter noise at low idle, probably going to need to be adjusted.
    -When engage my heater exchanger within the first 15 minutes of the machine running the engine will die. Even if I use my bypass switch to engage it.
    -The waste tank typically never gets full enough to shut the machine down before it shuts down on it's own.
  20. Joe Sabo New Member

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    there was a problem in some areas with vapor locking at the inlet to the carb. It was replaced with a rubber hose to prevent this later on. Also, when it dies, I wonder how much fuel comes out at the machine. It should fill a 20 oz. bottle in less than a minute. I had a poorly installed unit once that debris was in the fuel tank from the installer and the tank had to be lowered and flushed that gave this problem. I've also , had to reroute some bad installs where the exhaust was directed underneath of the van towards the fuel pump causing vapor locking and pump failure.

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