Ok after doing a host of maintenance my heat gauge is still saying I'm only getting 196-201 degrees at the machine. I've checked and done everything except these potential problems as stated in the service manual: -Defective air pump (catalytic converter not burning). -Temperature relief valve on water box is stuck open. How would I inspect these last two heat components??
Dude.................. for the last time for real.. go see your distributor so they can show you how to run this machine before you cause thousands of dollars of damage.. this board is for help, but sometimes you need hands on help.. is what you need fo sure. Its to hard to explain what you need done sometimes. dont take chances with ten different peoples explanations of what to do.... Can you do that?
Are those temps with the wand hooked up and/or water flowing thru the machine? If so here goes..... There should be a 1/4" blue line coming off the thermal valve going to your waste tank, dissconnect the line from the waste tank and lay it on the floor of the van as it will need to gravity feed because during normal operation the vacuum tank will suck the water out. run your machine up to temp and wait to see if any water comes out of the line. thermal valve should open when the water in your water box reaches whatever temp your thermal valve is rated at. If you lay it on the floor and water start coming out immediatly with the machine cold its a defective valve (stuck open) Far as your air pump unhook the discharge side put your finger over the hole and bump the engine ( dont start it) and see if it blows anything out. Hope this helps I hate it when my equipment isnt ATLEAST doing the manufacturers numbers.
Dude.................. for the last time for real.. go see your distributor so they can show you how to run this machine before you cause thousands of dollars of damage.. this board is for help, but sometimes you need hands on help.. is what you need fo sure. Its to hard to explain what you need done sometimes. dont take chances with ten different peoples explanations of what to do.... Can you do that? Dang man no disrespect but truckmounts arent rocket science lighten up a little the guy just wants to check things out before he spends 60 to 80 bucks an hour for someone else to look at it. Paying 60 to 80 bucks an hour to have someone disconnect a hose and see if water runs out of it can get pretty costly esspecially in the economic times. Its not like hes wanting to time the blower or rebuild the motor or something thats a little complicated. Like i said no disrespect just sounded a little harsh sorry
Im not trying to be rude... but if you look at his other posts his is definitely in way over his head, he has atleast 2 different thigns break a day....
I understand what ur saying dude, but every single one of us were right were that guys is right now trying to fix our machines to run at peak performance so we could take pride in our work and make a living, and we all dove into working on our truckmounts at somepoint not knowing exactly what we were doing... even the truckmount gurus that engineer and build em for us lol
I am not trying to be a jerk... i am just saying.. hes getting to much different advice... he needs someone to show him in person.. I dont want him to break a critical part that could cost him thousands of dollars..
i totally understand this situation. Whe i got into this business i really didnt know much, But i found a california cleaning supply nearby and i went in and was extremeley fortunate to meet MurraY man he was great he not only walked me through the cleaning steps he also told me hoiw to run my machine. I ran into the same problem heat and i didnt know so i just felt he knew more so i did pay $80.00 bucks to do a inspection on it and tell me any problems he saw. It turned out there was a loose ground wire to the thermostat and it runs hot now. Sure i felt maybe i over paid for something so small but murray has always steered me in the right direction. I just wish so bad he wouldnt have left the business. What im saying is that sometimes if you dont know then just take it to someone you trust and know that treats you right, that way it wont hurt so much letting go of the bucks
I actually took the machine in when I first got it for a quick hour inspection, he fixed the chemical system, checked vacuum, and a few other things.. When i asked the guy at CCCS about my heat, he said I didn't need it as my machine was already getting 180 without the heat exchanger, so I left it at that. I have since made a few adjustments and now have it running around 200 degrees. I suppose I can clean carpets with that but I just want my machine running up to specs. so I am taking the time to fix the rest of my problems myself for 1) I don't have a lot of business right now so I have some time. 2) I already took the machine in! 3) so that I can gain the understanding of how my machine works and be able to tackle any future common problems. By the way, a month ago I was over my head, today I understand how a whole lot more about my machine.
Ok followed these instructions from SRD, "There should be a 1/4" blue line coming off the thermal valve going to your waste tank, dissconnect the line from the waste tank and lay it on the floor of the van as it will need to gravity feed because during normal operation the vacuum tank will suck the water out. run your machine up to temp and wait to see if any water comes out of the line. thermal valve should open when the water in your water box reaches whatever temp your thermal valve is rated at. If you lay it on the floor and water start coming out immediatly with the machine cold its a defective valve (stuck open)" Here's my results: Disconnected 1/4" blue hose going to my waste tank (Leading to under filter basket), started and warmed up the machine, observe no water (Besides a few drips) coming out UNTIL my temperature reached slightly above 200 degrees! Then the hot water started POURING out and temp went back down because of it. I observed this every time my water temp would reach slightly above 200 (About 203)! So could this also be a temp solenoid problem (which I already took out a cleaned) or is it the "Temperature relief valve on water box is stuck open"?
follow the blue line you took off that water is pouring out of at 203 degrees the other direction. Is it hooked up on the other end to the temp solenoid, or is it hooked to the thermal relief valve? "There should be a 1/4" blue line coming off the thermal valve going to your waste tank, dissconnect the line from the waste tank"
If your thermal valve is good or if the blue line you took off actually goes to the high temp solenoid you might check to see if your thermostat dial corrosponds correctly with what temp your running ive had to recalibrate those temp dials before. I may be wrong but it seems to me if your high temp solenoid was stuck open or bad you wouldnt even be getting to 200 just my 2 pennies :-D
If your thermal valve is good or if the blue line you took off actually goes to the high temp solenoid (should be more than one line going to your wastetank thats why i said in my previous post follow the line from the thermal relief valve to the waste tank) you might check to see if your thermostat dial corrosponds correctly with what temp your running ive had to recalibrate those temp dials before. I may be wrong but it seems to me if your high temp solenoid was stuck open or bad you wouldnt even be getting to 200 just my 2 pennies :-D
Sorry for the multiple post but the more i think about it..... if the solenoid was stuck open you would have water coming out the blue line soon as you started the machine sounds to me (i think) like the temp dial (thermostat) is telling it to open prematurely hard to tell without seeing it though
Ok just checked, it's coming from the waste tank to the temperature relief valve which is connected to the solenoid.. I'm sure the relief valve is fine else it would leak right when I started the machine.. So it has to be either temp dial or whatever controls the solenoid.
Yes if the solenoid itself was stuck open I'd have water pouring out the minute I started the machine.
That blue line under the trap you guys are talking about goes directly from the solenoid and the bypass valve. The thermal valve is a clear braided line on the left side. Johnny, you said water was pouring out at 200*. What was the dial set to when this happened? If your dial was set higher and it opened at 200 than SRD is right and you have to recalibrate the thermostat.
