The Lovejoy coupler insert on my Powermatic is cracked and needs replacement. It is an S-Flex size 8 one piece insert. In finding a replacement I see that there are 2 piece units available. My question is can a 2 piece unit be installed so I don't have to move the motor like when installing a one piece unit?
Yes you can use the 2 piece insert . However I personally feel they are not as good and crack and break in a shorter amount of time. If you do go insert get the the one with out the wire ring. I think moving the engine and installing the new coupler is the best way to go.
Nick, Thanx for the quick reply. Are you familiar with the Steamway units? I believe I have to remove the exhaust from the heads to move the motor to install the coupler insert.
This is the coupler between the motor and blower on my unit. http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/1L824
The also make a one-peice coupler that is split; this is a better choice, imho, than using a two-peice when the blower/engine shafts are too close together.
the steamway units is simple. unbolt the engine exguast and the engine bolts slide it forward. Replace. then put it all back. You may be able to run with a cracked coupler for a litle while. I would use the new solid rubber coupler. I think the last longer .
Do not remove the exhaust at the block. There should be a separation clamp down the exhaust pipe. That is where you want to remove the exhaust clamp.
If you don't feel you can adequately line the blower and engine back up or simply do not want to go through that much work Buy a 8JEMS split coupler element. All you have to do then is loosen the set screws on the flange on the engine side, slide it back and replace the element. I keep a Split coupler on the truck at all times. No one wants to have to unbolt the engine to replace the coupler in the middle of a job if it breaks.
Got it replaced today. Took almost 3 hours which included lunch and walking all the way to the garage refer for beer to calm me down so I didn't throw a wrench in the neighbors pool. Actually it was fairly simple, there were a few pain in the a$$ moments but all in all not to bad. Ran it for about 30 minutes and everything seems O.K. I got the flanges aligned fairly close. Thank you to those who offered advice
Son of a !#@%! Coupler I got another cracked coupler! Do I need to go to the molecular level to align things? I got a job tomorrow so I hope it holds. If anyone has any ideas or even a totally different coupler I'm open for ideas.
The only way to align visually is to place a straight edge across the coupler flanges. Put it on the top of them to check vertical alignment. Put it on the sides to check lateral. And keep in mind that one side can be twisted in relation to the other, so, "close" is not good enough. You want the alignment to look absolutely perfect. Best thing is to not connect the exhaust back until everything is locked down tightly, with regard to the motor mounting bolts. Is there a possibility that the blower slipped somehow and is the actual source of the problem?
No I checked the blower. I used a straight edge but thought I was close enough. Upon closer inspection it looks like I have to shim the engine up just a touch. Now I gotta find some shim stock somewhere.
McMaster has shims. http://www.mcmaster.com/#shims/=2bkjjh You can shim the engine but they recomend shimming the blower. I forgot what the reasoning was.
I dont think that is it. Call me today 940-642-2503 I have acouple of ideas. Jim what Brand coupler did you buy? What Rpms do you run the machine? What Rpms do you Idle it down too?
Nick, It's a Lovejoy S-Flex one piece coupler. I run my unit at 3000 rpm and idle at approx. 1200 rpm.
My machine has been running really good. On a job yesterday, couple of rooms in a home their boat in the driveway and a truck interior. As I'm finishing up the truck I heer noises in my trailer. Upon inspection I find my blower to generator belt is slowing coming apart. Crap! I just had all this apart. Guess I should of replaced that belt when I had the motor loose. Here we go again! I don't suppose those link belts would work on this?
Could there be a lack of air flow in the trailer making the belts or coupler to overheat and malfunction??
