Can urine be removed without replacing the padding successfully?

I agree that a lot of urine can be removed from the pad and carpet if you know what you are doing. The majority of the time whenever I come across something like this I take a step back, find the culprit, determine the length of time it has dwelled and so forth. Next, if it is a new spill and the odor is bad I attack it with a product called Skunk Out by Powerclean. I flush the odor with fresh, softened water, then saturate with Skunk Out and dwell for 20 to 30 min. I then extract with a small water claw and repeat if odor is still there. Ninety percent of the time the odor is gone after first application. I never have issues with color coming back and if it does I have perfected a secret sauce that is patent pending that 100% guarantees removal of stain without any hazards what so ever.

Interesting. I use the medium water claw and pour CTI's OSR on it and let it set for around 20 minutes. Now I have been lucky not having any stain left or come back. The only time I run into a stain that doesn't come out, is when the customer uses something on it before they call. Then I go to stain magic after the OSR and I have pretty good results with that because I can leave it and it will work after I'm gone.

Odorcide 210 and skunk out are both made by Powerclean and and work awesome for removing all kinds of smells.

Part of the answer depends upon the definition of "sucess." Often, especially when pets are still in the home, customers will not want to spend the money, time and disruption of completely replacing the pad and all that is required to get 100% removal of all stain and odors.

The home-owners level of tolerance may be such that you can do a sucessful job in other ways.

BTW- Those who like OSR should try PetZONE. Use 25% less PetZONE to get the same stain removal as OSR. Plus the added benefit of Hydrocide included gives an added boost to odor removal.

Scott Warrington

If you do a proper inspection using a UV light, a urinometer (I believe thats the name the Bramton company gave the hydrosensor in 1981) a piece of white chalk and a grided tablet. a roll of black plastic bags, blue tape and a 4 ft ladder are also helpful.

In my experience if any more than 20-25% has been contaminated sell them a topical spray till the pets are gone and then they need to replace. WinSol labs makes a great deoderiser that works for me called Trio. I sell it direct to the homeowner to apply as needed.

If it is less than the 20-25% figuring what the size of the original puddle was say 8oz (1 cup) small to med small dog or a cat, I figure I need to put at least double that in a liquid OSR or Pet Zone solution. (Scotty, What does the S & N stand for??)

so 8 of those size spots take at least Gallon to a gallon and a half of solution. A franchize co in our area charges $75 a gallon but will leave it wet for a week with no extraction. We always check the subfloor and always do a thourgh extraction and flushing using the small deluxe water claw I charge a $125 minimum plus $35 per additional gal of solution used. (Special tip, The claw will suck and extract better when it a lot of water to suck so if my treated areas are smaller than my claw I have a male QC inserted into my pressure line with an on/off valve and just before extraction but after the required dwell time I will flood the area the size of the claw footprint and then extract with great results and if necessary can use pressure line to flush around the claw.)

We have not had a problem doing it this way for many years. Our clients have been very happy.

Odorcide is mfg by thornell corp, not powerclean

. .

Does anyone us a U.P.S. (Urine Pre Spray)?

Pat;

There are some new Odor Attack product solutions that combine:

1. An Oxidizer for Odor control

2. An Actual Enzyme that is Synergistic with the Oxidizer

The combo is more effective.

It what our customers use for a guaranteed solution with a spotting claw.

Larry

I was doing all sorts of things to treat pee spots on carpet and underpad without replacing, but Im moving into pad replacement more now and away from trying to clean underpad without pulling up the carpet.

In short, and after hundreds of pee spots over my career, the answer is.. NO .. You cannot completely decontaminate a pee spot without replacing underpad. You can soak it in enzyme, you can soak it in deodorizers, but you are still going to have urine residue underneath, inside the spongy material, in the fabric of the carpet and on, and IN the subfloor underneath.

You can clean the top with a little deo if that is all the custy wants you to do. But no guarentees come with that!

We use UPS, we use to use multiphase but found it to be not as effective as Kills Odor. WaterClaw and flush it out. This does not work 100 % of the time but it is effective in many cases.

Raygn

I have been using the BioModifier from interlink. Have not had any complaints about it other then the time that i forgot one of the spots.

Method

We inspect using a UV light-Mark the spots (customer in tow)

Flood it with OSR-The WHOLE Room in some cases if not the entire house in some cases.

Dwell for 20-30mins

Extract with the water claw

Rinse-extract AGAIN

Float the carpet w/turbos

Set up dehu's (when needed)

With intense decontamination-fog the underneath during the float process. (AKA Masking)-Why? Cause you can't eliminate it totally with this process, period! imo

Never had a complaint, but, NO guarantees-in writing, and I agree with Richard that you can't completely decontaminate it in this manner. Its left in the hands of the customer after doing a intensive walk through weather they want it do this way or..shall we say the right way.

Most want to save that $$ not pulling the pad/replace, sealing the sub-floor/base boards & treating the front/back of carpet. SO I guess I've been lucky and haven't had call backs...yet!

We use a small Water Claw and Judsons Quat A Lot. Works for us.

Just goes to show, there are many levels of treatment you can give your customer based on what they want to spend and how much turmoil they want their house to go through. I've split it into three packages. And will be making a brochure I can hand them and let them decide, each package is priced accordingly by the sq ft.
Level 1, level 2 or level 3 decontamination.

Richard that is a great idea. We made a booklet that educated the customer about urine. And passed out "Urine Policy" And gave them some options from pulling pad to just using an odorcide to flushing it out. By the way we use the blacklight as well and prorate our time plus chemicals, but I have not created a brochure with different levels of service and let them decide.

Thanks
Raygn

Depending on the level of decontamination my customer is willing to pay for, I will use CTI Pre-Urine Treatment, then OSR soak with 30 min dwell, sometimes an acid-rinse as well. Water claw to extract. Then normal HWE cleaning. If any residual stain persists, USR or Stain Magic seem to be effective. If any odor persists, Odorcide210.

I like to be able to give the customer piece of mind that these stains will not return. If they do return, then necessary steps need to be taken on the padding and carpet backing.

Either way, i love dealing with the challenge of pet stains. Like snow flakes they are all different and each scenario may require a tweaking of your process.

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Either way, i love dealing with the challenge of pet stains. Like snow flakes they are all different and each scenario may require a tweaking of your process.[/QUOTE]



Don't eat the yellow snow.

I agree with Richard Baldwin... anyone who guartees this either hopes the home owner just wont complane... but if the pet has had a pis party for a year or two ... well like i said i agree with Richard