Thread: Just got Genesis 59 tm back from Powerclean -- have a issue --

Had one of my techs drive my box truck with the Gen 59 to Powerclean's manufacturing place in Joliet, IL to have it fixed and redone as it is four years old. The whole fixing of everything that was wrong with it and labor totaled $3500 and as it came back I was very happy I have a very like new truck.

My issue is yesterday I was powerwashing my brother's rental's house pool and 45 min it this brand newly refurbished tm died. I came to the truck and turned the key off then back on but the tm wouldn't start. I only had the RPM's on 1500 or 1700 or so and is that enough power to turn the alternator to charge the battery to run the tm and the 13amp water pump?

My tech thinks that since the machine runs optimally at 2400 rpm it was creating enough power at the low rpm to power the 4.9 gallon inline water pump (not talking cat pump but flojet). Can this be true? Thanks,

There have been multiple clicks that I have heard when I turn the key on after this has happened. When this happened I called Powerclean and they told me that I had to run the machine at 2400 rpm to get the voltage up high enough to power the electronics and hardware. The very next day my guys were out on a jobsite and it happened again. I tested the battery while the tm was on and running at 2400 rpm and it is only pulling 11.52 amps from the alternator.

Powerclean swears it is the alternator but unfortunetly there is a backorder for 4 weeks. Ideas, Thoughts?

Normally the batters isnt' completely dead but there is just enough power in it to hear the clicking noises when I turn the key to the on position

Look for an alternator repair shop they can test both the alternator and the battery they can rebuilt the alternator for a 100 to 150 that is what i will do if you go to blue you are going to over pay
if you have the nissan engine there was a posting here on this forum for an alternator for sale on Ebay i think $50.00 take care of your money .

I do have the nisson a15 industrial engine at 49 hp. I'll check ebay for it now! Thanks you two!!

If I charge the battery overnight with my battery charger and do a test on it tomorrow morning I should be able to tell whether or not the alternator is good or bad correct?

To test if your alternator is charging get a 12v meter between the battery + and - post turn your TM on and see the voltage go around 12.8 -13.5 then turn the TM off and the reading will drop to 12.v to 12.5
I have the same engine Nissan A-15 EFI the alternator repair price was $130 one day to get it back very easy to change

Warning Do not run the truckmount with one of the battery terminals disconected it will damage the ECU

Gerson,

do you have a model number or product number off the alternator you can get me? The people at Powerclean and Zenith can't seem to come up with a number that should fit this unit. I have a few options for Zenith that are 23100-u0105 (Hitachi), 2300-U0114 (Mitsubishi). Any ideas here? Thanks too in advance

I have actually had the alternator rebuilt once b/c it was bad. It worked great for a few weeks but then it went back to these same old shenanigans.

BTW, how do I check to see if the ECU is supplying power? Can my voltage meter tell me that?

You could have a bad voltage regulator. Automotive alternators when running correctly should be charging at 12-14 volts. I like 10sI 's which were on Chevy's you can get a high performance that will ut out up to 100 amps or 140 amps. You can get an external or internal regulator (externals better cause if the regulator goes you just have to replace it and not the whole assembly. Go into a Kragen/ Oreileys or autozone or a speed shop and take the old one with you they should be able to run the alt on one of their testing stations and put a load on it and do a cross ref # to a compatible/comprable one.

on newer engine set ups the ECM ihas a integrated voltage regulator so to test you nee a electrical diagram or know which is the bypas or the signal wire (usually ground) to get the alternator to put out....No punt intended

It is never recommended to run a alternator with the battery disconnected but if you do do it place a load on the alternator ...but on a TM there isnt any loads so no!

Originally Posted by aspenedelen

I do have the nisson a15 industrial engine at 49 hp. I'll check ebay for it now! Thanks you two!!

Not really First Charge the battery and then test the battery or get it tested if the battery is good then go ahead and test the alternator. Batteries need maintenance too even though they call em maintenance free if it has removable caps...its not maintenancce free. YOU NEED TO BE CAREFULL WHEN CARGING BATTERIES they release Hydrogen which is EXTREMELEY Explosive make sure you have plenty of venting and air circulation and some EYE And Skin protection and some Neutralizrd (BAking Soda) adding ONLY DISTILLED water!! to a cell. You need all cells to be alive if one is dead the battery is not goiung to work ( cells are 2 volts each and connected in series (2+2+2+2+2+2v's = 12V) the blu or green battery eye indicator is not the precise way to see if the battery is dead it only tells you that the specific gravity in that one cell is low (low water or there is a problem with the sulfuric acid and or the lead plate. Vibration Kill Batteries so make sure they are correclty and tied down good.

What I have been forced to do for the past year since this issue started is run a postive and neg cable from the battery of the tm through the floor of my truck, underneath the truck itself and then back up to battery of E350. This way I can keep truck running and it will power the battery at tm and keep it powered. This is the only thing I can do without having battery go dead and stay dead.