Thread: Cooling Down Power Clean Truck Mounts

Tre,

In answer to your question I spoke to one of our techs and he suggests the following.

Shut-down procedures:

#1. Remove the vacuum hose from the waste tank. This will allow the air flow to increase throughout the system therefore allowing the vacuum system to cool.
#2. Spray a non-flammable liquid wrench type of lubricant into the blower lube port for 3-5 seconds to displace any moisture in the vacuum blower.
#3. Turn the water temperature thermostat to the lowest position (usually 40 degrees).
#4. Turn the chemical feed knob on the gPH meter to the off position. (clockwise until the black knob is seated)
#5. Slowly turn the engine speed down to approximately 1000 RPM.
#6. Trigger the wand or run a bleed hose on the "hot" out quick connect with the pressure set to approx 200 psi. (we suggest running the bleeder hose into the waste tank to prevent water run-off) Caution must be taken when doing this. If the water temperature is extremely hot the hose may want to "whip" make sure the end of the hose is secured.
#7. Let the unit run at the lower idle with the vac hose removed and the pump water on the Hot out while you are reeling up the hoses and such.
#8. After "packing up the truck" turn the pump clutch off, remove the bleeder hose and turn the unit off.
#9. Once the unit is cooled down and off, we highly suggest checking the waste tank and blower inlet filters to ensure they are clean and ready for the next job.

If you have any other questions please feel free to contact us at (800) 378-0380.

Keith Schuyler
Vice President
PowerClean Industries

I follow this procedure almost to a tee, except I crank down the thermostat for the last 50-100 sq ft of carpet. I still have plenty of heat to clean properly, but get a jump on cooling the system. After disconnecting the vac hose I generally put the bleeder hose in the vac port to recover the water. And YES, make sure the bleeder is secure to avoid the "scalding whip from hades"

All I do is idle mine down at about 800 rpms for a few minutes, then I turn off the machine and then turn the ignition switch back on to allow the machine fan to continue to run until I leave the job.

Originally Posted by Aaron Richards

I follow this procedure almost to a tee, except I crank down the thermostat for the last 50-100 sq ft of carpet. I still have plenty of heat to clean properly, but get a jump on cooling the system. After disconnecting the vac hose I generally put the bleeder hose in the vac port to recover the water. And YES, make sure the bleeder is secure to avoid the "scalding whip from hades"

I'm with you here. I like to turn down the temp for the last 100 sq ft or so. This will cool the water temp down close to 160. At that point, I disconnect the vac hose, turn off the mix, bleed with a small line at the machine for 20 seconds or so, turn off my pump, lube the blower port, and then set the machine to idle while I roll up the hoses.

I'm really picky about my equipment and always let the machine run at idle for at least 3 minutes or more after all accessories (and hoses) are off. Not allowing your truckmount to cool down properly will result in Maint. issues and shorter life span. Metal expands and contracts in relation to temp. The goal is to allow this to happen SLOWLY.

I follow the procedure to a "T" except I wait until the water coming out of the bleeder is cold and not one minute sooner...

Originally Posted by Ara Klujian

Joe, read the last paragraph about thermal shock.

http://www.catpumps.com/pages/freque...c.cfm?KeyID=43

Thanks for the info Ara. I should have been more precise when I posted earlier. I continue to idle the engine during the "cool down period" until the water, coming out of the bleeder is cold. This generally takes around 10-15 minutes, most times longer. I do this because it is what I was told to do. Do you think it is not a good idea to do this? Would it still be possible for thermal shock if it takes this long to cool down?

(Sorry, duplicate post)

Well first of all the blower heat exchanger and the liquid heat exchangers do not get cut off, they remain in the closed loop for the heating system and continue to heat the water. A large ford engine will produce some high liquid coolant temps and a lot of BTUS. Couple that with the blower pre heater, the water temp probably wont dip below 150F even without the main exhaust heat exchanger. PLus you will have residual heat from the heat exchanger that could take a couple of minutes to cool down, so your temps may even be around 180 until it cools down.

Gross 5min isn't long enough to cool down that beast, try 10min while your rolling up your hoses and putting away stuff.

Originally Posted by Ara Klujian

Joe, Idleing low for 10-15 minutes all the time is not good for your engine. If its liquid-cooled it wont hurt it at all only air-cooled.I would idle down for a minute at most two minutes. Not long enough to cool down the system. Engine temperatures can actually get hotter in low idle. My TM liquid-cooled gets cooler at idle and hotter with higher rpms. On air-cooled units i agree. Because more gas is being consumed and the fan or fly wheel is turning at a slower rate. TMs consume more gas at higher rpms like cars. My suggestion would be to lower your water temp to about 180*-150* before killing the engine. I would set the thermo to the lowest setting

Sounds like your talking about air-cooled TMs. It dont jive with liquid-cooled TMs.

The only time my liquid cooled nissan engine would overheat on me is when it ran ar idle for too long, running at higher speeds the fan moves more air and the water pump will circulate the water faster through the system.

You might have a cooling system malfunction. I idled mine for 45min and it stayed cool and the water temp gauge was at about 160. It didn't overheat. It cooled down! Before idleing the QDs felt like a hot potato! During idle they got cooler. Maybe some TMs react different @ idle.