Thread: Which is more important in a machine to you?

I'm down to two machines to pick from. One has AF and AD, but no heat. The other has heat, but no AF or AD. Now I know I can add heat later to machine, and I can add AF and AD later to a machine, but which one would be a good machine to start off with?

the autofill you can add to any machine easily.

HEAT-PROPANE HEAT OR EQUIVALENT

Originally Posted by mclyburn1

So are you saying AF/AD is more important because you can add heat later?

MARLON,
NO. ADDING HEAT TO WHATEVER EXTRACTOR IS MORE ADVANTAGEOUS THAN AD/APO. BETTER CLEANING-DRYING TIMES. THOSE HEAVY GREASY SPOON AREAS WILL RESPOND BETTER WITH HIGH HEAT.THINK QUALITY OF JOB FIRST ,I LIVE ON REFERRALS.
BUCKET BRIGADE TO DUMP AND GARDEN HOSE WITH SHUTOFF. YOU COULD DUMP AS YOUR REFILLING FRESH WATER TANK.
WHEN THE FUNDS ARE THERE DEFINITELY GET THE APO. I SIPHON FEED FROM FRESH WATER TANK (35 GALLON) WITH THE RECOIL.

I've heard of the new Durmaid, but still haven't seen a picture of it. Would you happen to have a link to the machine?
Thanks
Frank

Originally Posted by pack7483

Wait about 1 month and get the new Durmaid, then simply add a little giant 2ht and your set.

Originally Posted by fboet

I've heard of the new Durmaid, but still haven't seen a picture of it. Would you happen to have a link to the machine?
Thanks
Frank

Frank,
http://uscleanersnetwork.com/smf/car...aid-vs-cfx/20/ Need to read all threads on this forum for pics and info. The pictures are early prototypes , I believe.
I did post this link earlier. Like how you draw water from sink NOT the faucet!!!
JIM

I did not see what kind of work you want to do with the machine. If you are looking at any tile and grout work, the AF/AD will be a nescessary time-saver.

If carpet only, I think the heat is more ebenficial that the AF/AD. However, the heat is usually easier and less expensive to add later.

You can keep the heat, give me A/F & APO! I can add heat cheaply later. More chemicals, more agitation, and more time (which is saved and then some with AF/APO) will give the results of heat.

If you are doing restaurants and real nasty things, get both or be prepared to be frustrated.

I would have to say get the auto fill and dump unit. That would save you a lot of headaches and you can always get the heat later. A lot of jobs I have done with low heat and been fine. Sometimes I will turn up the water heater in the customers home before I start in case I can't hook up to the dryer outlet and the other circuits have stuff on them. That way no need to run the heaters and no trippin breakers.

I think most TM owners love the fact that they DO NOT have to fetch a 5 gal bucket every 5 minutes. Oh, then dump it, spill it, or burn your foot if you miss the hole or bump your knee. yeah, Hot water tanks get HOT! Get AF/APO!

all 3 are over rated

I also vote for AF/AD. I have had just about every configuration, and to me the most important thing has to AD. I use this the most right now and just refill the tank with hot water from the faucet..this way I can add the proper amount of rinse for each fill.

If you are going to get one of the higher power porty's and run it from the van, then skip all the electric heaters and go to straight propane heat (or kero heat) you will not be sorry!!

Give me heat, Think about this stronger cleaning comes from heat right? That means the need for less water. I'm in it for the results not production.

This is an interesting question. One of the things we have noticed is that guys are looking for more and more versatility out of their systems. They want high pressure for tile, low pressure for upholstery, heat, pump outs, bigger vacuums, etc. The obvious challenge with this is that the more components you install in a portable, the heavier the machine becomes.

This is one of the reasons Mytee has begun making more and more modular units. This type of modular concept keeps each component fairly light, and allows you to setup only the components you need for a certain job. A few examples:

The Water Hog. This 50-1200 psi pressure pump can be used for almost anything, from upholstery at very low PSI, to tile cleaning at much higher pressures. Since it feeds directly from a standard garden hose, there is no need for a fresh water tank. We will actually be debuting a brand new version of this unit soon, which will feature a plunger pump with oil bath, on a very compact cart.

The Air Hog. These new units are extremely versatile, and can be used as a stand alone extractor, or "daisy chained" together for longer hose runs, and even more CFM. They have an auto pump out built in, so you can work on even very large jobs without having to resort to the "bucket brigade.". They also work on standard 15A circuits, making power management easy. You can see these new units on our homepage at www.mytee.com.

If heat is needed, a modular heater, such as our Mytee Hot Turbo could be used in-line. You can see it at www.mytee.com/products/product.php?id=240-120. The Water Hog could also be fed directly from a hot water source.

With this type of setup, each piece only weighs about 40 lbs, and is easy to move in and out of the job. It is easy to transport and store also. We think this modular type of setup is going to become more and more popular as time goes on.

Originally Posted by ECOPRO

Give me heat, Think about this stronger cleaning comes from heat right? That means the need for less water. I'm in it for the results not production.

Exactly.More heat less water usage ! The recovery tank on my extractor. is 15 gallons. No way no how do I recover 5 gallons in 5 minutes.Greg ,I hope that is an exaggeration . I just did 3 upstairs bedrooms and a hall on first job b4 dumping and it was not full.
I carry my own water source,never relying on customer. Recoil never leaves the trailer.
If you are going to bring extractor inside suggest you go with clients hot water.
Marlon,Like E said :
[If you are going to get one of the higher power porty's and run it from the van, then skip all the electric heaters and go to straight propane heat (or kero heat) you will not be sorry!]
I believe all the members here with TM units use heat.
Guess it really depends on your use !
GOOD LUCK

5 gallons in 5 minutes.

Water usage depends on pump, pressure, settings, tools and methods.
When using a rotovac 360 on heavy soil, I will run the solution continuously. Depending on the size of the area being cleaned, it may be longer. Do a dry pass when using a portable.
When using a wand, I dont think I will every run wide open for 5 minutes.

I still try new methods (test) to achieve the cleanest carpet, dry time, run time, chem cost, labor, and my health. Them dang buckets can make bad things happen.

The other day I pulled a bucket out of the filling area, I bumped the bottom of the bucket and the bump caused it to tilt. When a bucket is full and it tilts, it spills on my leg, runs down into my shoe and feels a bit painful. Plus I have a wet foot and a mess to clean up.

I know that the bucket brigade can be overwhelming on larger jobs. The system I use is this: I have a clean 5 Gal head pack that I use for the fresh water. A black 5 gal bucket for waste water. When I am almost finished with my 10 gallons rinse solution. And am full with recovery waste. I will pre-spray and agitate the next 150-200 sq to be cleaned. While the solution is dwelling. I refill the 10 gal rinse tank, The 5 gal head pack is full and on standby in advance as well. Ill give a light mist of pre spray over the remaining traffic areas. This is also to insure that solution is not drying. I will dump out the waste tank , prepare a mental picture of my plan of attack and get started extracting. Note: I will also often connect a garden hose to the sink when applicable. Eliminating the need for the 5 gal head pack.