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Thread: M5 or less??

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    braddaddy's Avatar
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    M5 or less??

    I want to get a Mytee M5.... found one at DCP for $2100 but that is just still a bit to high for me....I've got more than that together but I still need all the other stuff....hoses, wand, etc, etc.

    I cant find an M5 on craigslist or ebay for a less price. But I see the speedsters 100o's 1003's all over the place.

    I want the 500 psi and the autofill and pumpout. And the 2-3 stage vacs.

    Is it worth my while to get the 100odx or 1003 and retrofit to match the M5??? Or will it turn out to cost the same $$.

    I dont want to do the bucket brigade. To me thats kinda unprofessional and will leave a bad moment of truth.

  2. #2
    floorguy_724's Avatar
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    Re: M5 or less??

    If you are set on the M5, keep looking until you can find a good deal. There should be a supplier out there that will throw in the M5 with all the accesories. If you go less, you will be worrying about it later.

    Where are you located?


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    braddaddy's Avatar
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    I gotta update my profile.... Cary, IL chicago's northwest suburbs

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    wesdawg67's Avatar
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    What if you could build one of those lesser machines(1000DX or 1003DX) to perform better than a M5?

    Just some food for thought, and it can be done.

    The vac motors that Mytees uses in the M5 are the C302A 3 stages. They're listed to have 115 CFM and 148" of water lift.

    The pump is a 205 series Pumptec pump head with the 1/3 hp M4 motor. That combo generally uses a 125 eccentric offset cam bearing to produce 1.25 GPM at 500 psi. Although Mytee uses a regulator to keep it at 450 psi. That motor will also draw about 3 amps during use.

    Now, you can go bigger. You can use the same 205 pump head with the 1/2 hp M58 motor. It with draw about 5.2 amps, however you can bump up to a 160 eccentric offset cam bearing to produce 1.6 GPM. The beauty of this set up is you can use 4 jet wands, with four 01 jets, with out a drop in pressure when you key your trigger. Or, you can use a 2 jet wand with two 02 jets and get the same result.

    Here's a pic of a Speedster that I've done the M5 upgrades to, but it has the custom pump in it. One thing you can do is also vent you exhaust out the back like I've done. I'll be making a booster that can good directly from the machine for a ridiculous jump in lift.
    Attached Images Attached Images

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    Where do you buy the vacs and pump if one was to do this, and how much? I have seen a bunch of used speedsters around CL and this sounds like a good plan.
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    Quote Originally Posted by floorguy_724 View Post
    Where do you buy the vacs and pump if one was to do this, and how much? I have seen a bunch of used speedsters around CL and this sounds like a good plan.
    ATS Marketing sells pretty much everything you'd what to do an upgrade like this. I got my Pumptec parts from ADCO Pro. However, I would do some shopping around to get the best price.

    Here's ABOUT what I spent on the upgrades to my Speedster.

    $130 per vac motor
    $500 for my custom Pumptec pump
    $30 adding another cord
    $50 Misc brass fittings
    $100 Extra hardware and wiring

    About $1,000, so a lot of people would argue, "Why not just buy a new machine?" Well, if you have the extra grand burning a hole in your pocket it might be worth it. However, I did mine in increments when I could afford the extra parts here and there. Personally, I have no regrets. This thing is ridiculously better than when I first bought it. I've looked at A LOT of machines out there, I didn't really find one that I thought would work for me. So, I built my own.

    I still have the old 2 stage vac motors and plan on building a custom booster with them.

    So, I'd say if you have a little extra cash and some time, go for it!

  7. #7
    braddaddy's Avatar
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    Ive heard or read in the past that there is not enough room in some of the smaller units to do these upgrades..... Is this true?

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    braddaddy's Avatar
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    Will the auto-fill / auto pump-out fit inside too??

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    Quote Originally Posted by braddaddy View Post
    Will the auto-fill / auto pump-out fit inside too??
    Yes, but it would be very tight. The route that I'll be taking is to use a sump type auto dump that goes directly into the waste tank. The pump out that Mytee installs in their units seem to clog up fairly quickly. A sump type auto dump would be better suited to prevent that.

    As for the auto fill, there isn't a whole lot of room needed for that, so no real problem there.

  10. #10
    C Spot Stop's Avatar
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    Can I hijack this thread? I am curious why PSI is important since all we seek is impact and flow. I am ignorant of the specifics...but it occurs to me that an auto-fill could be eliminated if the house/blding hose simply ran to the wand. Similar to one of Rotovacs portys.

    That would also do away with heat (without other arrangements) but if the pump OUT worked well, not having the fresh water tank full of water nor the need for a pump would clear up some space for a better do hicky for other purposes.

    Now this is just some ramblings by an older beer drinking CC'er who fancies himself as rather smart. This post may prove otherwise.

    But look, I use the porty with a 100 psi pump and 11003 (2) jets and surely the PSI is not 100 now. But the flow-rate is and I get good coverage. (In testing out front anyway). Removing a pump would also open up a few amps and a cord.

    Now suction is the focus as pump-out. Right?

  11. #11
    wesdawg67's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by C Spot Stop View Post
    Can I hijack this thread? I am curious why PSI is important since all we seek is impact and flow. I am ignorant of the specifics...but it occurs to me that an auto-fill could be eliminated if the house/blding hose simply ran to the wand. Similar to one of Rotovacs portys.

    That would also do away with heat (without other arrangements) but if the pump OUT worked well, not having the fresh water tank full of water nor the need for a pump would clear up some space for a better do hicky for other purposes.

    Now this is just some ramblings by an older beer drinking CC'er who fancies himself as rather smart. This post may prove otherwise.

    But look, I use the porty with a 100 psi pump and 11003 (2) jets and surely the PSI is not 100 now. But the flow-rate is and I get good coverage. (In testing out front anyway). Removing a pump would also open up a few amps and a cord.

    Now suction is the focus as pump-out. Right?
    I can tell you from experience that the difference between cleaning with 100 psi at the jets and 450 psi at the jets is huge. The additional agitation that you get from more psi is unreal when you compare it to a low psi porty. However, most porties don't see their advertised psi at the wand. IE there are a lot of 500 psi extractors out there, but very few maintain steady pressure when the wand is keyed. Most usually drop to 200 psi or below under working conditions.

    Now, that's not because the pump is not capable of higher psi, but rather not capable of the flow required to maintain that psi.

    Here's a chat to find out exactly how much your pump is capable of flowing under load, or rather what's the maximum amount of psi you can achieve with the jets that you're using.

    http://www.pumptec.com/images/other_...erformance.pdf

    This easiest way to test your unit it to do a volume test with a 5 gal bucket. For 60 seconds, trigger you wand in the bucket and them measure how much water is in it after 60 seconds, .5 gal, .7 gal, 1 gal, etc.

    When you get that number you can then use it to reference what your pump is really capable of for a psi range, even if it's only 100 psi.

    I understand what you're saying about just using the fresh water supply as your solution line, but personally I would never clean that way. You might dump or flow more water, however it won't really do any "work" or impact for you because it's not really under higher psi. It would be like throwing down your prespray, then just pouring a 5 gal bucket of water over it and extracting it back up. Yes, you're going to remove some soil, however not as much as you would if you had the impact of a high psi unit.

    I don't quite understand your last question about suction.

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    Here would be a good place for me to imnsert: I am currently cleaning with a TM and often use 550-600 PSI on rat nasties. so the difference can be massive...but this is also as good a place to insert: using water PSI to clean is not what we were taught nor is it suggested proper methodology. But we do it anyway

    My plan is to use mechanical agitation. A buffer or rake or telling the carpet Yo-Momma jokes... So PSI to me way less vital than the guys who have a bigger desire to work faster for what ever reason. (not starting the speed-debate)

    I cleaned just as good last year with the 100 psi porty as I do now with 6 million P)SI and sun-surface temps... only a little slower with the porty.

    Carpet cleaning is part time for me now so I have more time to focus than market.

  13. #13
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    Re: M5 or less??

    Good answer Spot!

    I always use a Koblenz or a 175 to agitate but like cleaning with more too. I have not tried cleaning with under 500 psi yet. I will try it soon and see what I think. If I was to clean with say 200 psi, I would try to get check valves/extenders to get the jets a little closer to the carpet since I think this would help with the "flushing" phase of cleaning.


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    Yeah, we're definitely getting into the personal preference category. I with you guys on the mechanical agitation, but it's hard for me to turn the PSI down now after coming from around 100 psi.

    Just last night I cleaned the carpet in one of my janitorial accounts. I've cleaned the carpet before with about 100 psi, and I had to use a 175 and or my Rotovac just to get descent results.

    However, last night I cleaned with 450 steady psi at the wand. I didn't even have to rake in the prespray or anything, and it came out better than last time. Not to mention, what took me 5 hours before, only took me 2 hours this time.

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    C Spot Stop's Avatar
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    I am on the same page regarding high heat/PSI.

    But let me shed some more light on my dealio: I work 95% of my stuff for Property Managers and the homes/condos etc are empty. I am closer to the bottom of my preferred price-point but good enough where I can slow down, use way less gas...drag around a lighter van/truck etc...tires, oil, gas...you get the idea.

    I make tons of dry passes when I use a gazillion PSI (so do most guys) but I also have the machine to do so (421) so dry times are not too bad. Well, that was not entirely true. Sometimes I use 600 and dont dry pass at all. Oops. But only on hot non-humid days and I drop the AC to 68*.

    Carpet cleaning is my #1 source of income but not the only one. I also sharpen scissors for beauty salons and I need the space inside of a van to sit and work. (I also do knives and such)

    The time it takes me to set up with some of the hose runs I do...is abfreakingsurd so a porty/rake/buffer etc will be easier on my body (I have carpet tunnel too) and just as fast for me. With the same results at a lower expense to me.

    dude...I have totally hijacked your thread...again.

    so that may help. Dry passes or rake/buffer passes. I prefer something easier to squeeze (carpet tunnel) and a buffer is right on spot.

  16. #16
    wesdawg67's Avatar
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    Do what works for you Phil. As long as you're happy that's all that matters.

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    Quote Originally Posted by wesdawg67 View Post
    Do what works for you Phil. As long as you're happy that's all that matters.
    so I am very interested an amazed at what you have done to your Mytee.

  18. #18
    wesdawg67's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by C Spot Stop View Post
    so I am very interested an amazed at what you have done to your Mytee.
    You ain't seen nothing yet...

    I just got back from ADCO Pro with my new Dema valve for my chemical injection. More fun to come.

  19. #19
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    I'm with you Phil, 95% of our work is property management and I like the idea of an electric unit. Since selling my Recoil (which I regret BTW) I am on the look out for a 1 machine that can do everything. I want heat, auto dump/fill, and good vacuum! I am demoing a few machines right now.............I will keep in touch!
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    Quote Originally Posted by wesdawg67 View Post
    What if you could build one of those lesser machines(1000DX or 1003DX) to perform better than a M5?

    Just some food for thought, and it can be done.

    The vac motors that Mytees uses in the M5 are the C302A 3 stages. They're listed to have 115 CFM and 148" of water lift.

    The pump is a 205 series Pumptec pump head with the 1/3 hp M4 motor. That combo generally uses a 125 eccentric offset cam bearing to produce 1.25 GPM at 500 psi. Although Mytee uses a regulator to keep it at 450 psi. That motor will also draw about 3 amps during use.

    Now, you can go bigger. You can use the same 205 pump head with the 1/2 hp M58 motor. It with draw about 5.2 amps, however you can bump up to a 160 eccentric offset cam bearing to produce 1.6 GPM. The beauty of this set up is you can use 4 jet wands, with four 01 jets, with out a drop in pressure when you key your trigger. Or, you can use a 2 jet wand with two 02 jets and get the same result.

    Here's a pic of a Speedster that I've done the M5 upgrades to, but it has the custom pump in it. One thing you can do is also vent you exhaust out the back like I've done. I'll be making a booster that can good directly from the machine for a ridiculous jump in lift.
    That is nice looking set up Wes.I don't see the sea of hoses inside the machine like on some other units.Very clean looking.

 

 
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