Spitfire 3.2 problem

**tgratzer** · 11-01-2008, 01:10 PM

I have a spitfire 3.2/ approx. year 1996/ 700 hours.......after I have it running for an hour or so (after its gotten hot!) steam and not hot water will start to come out. What I've been doing to get around this problem is hooking up my "draining" hose and running water through it to cool it every once in a while. I noticed this start happening after I did a lot of waterclaw work which meant the system was getting hot without keying a wand. Does anyone know how I could repair this without taking it to Interlink supply? I know how to change the oils and grease my blower and vac and that's about it. Could it be a bad valve that doesn't open or something to run the "cooling" water into the waste tank?

Thanks in advance for responses!

**Billy** · 11-01-2008, 03:00 PM

I had a SpitFire 3.2 for many years before purchasing the BigBearTruck. I installed a Vacuum & Temperature Gage just for this type of problem. What you are describing sounds like the Temperature relief valve is sticking in the closed position & causing the SF 3.2 to heat water way beyond its capabilities.

Be Careful you can damage the pump & other parts if it is this & you continue to run it like this.

My valve was on the left side of the machine looking at the mount from the front. It was made by CatPumps. Also make sure you get the correct valve there are different models with different temp ratings. I believe mine used the 180 degrees one but it has been a while so double check.

If you need help with the SF 3.2 just give me a call I will try to help you I did all work to mine over the years.

Click Here for Hicks Carpet Care SpitFire 3.2 pics

**Chris Sheldon** · 11-01-2008, 05:10 PM

The water going into that particular pump should not exceed 140 degrees, or as Billy said, you can burn up the pump. If the water going into the pump is too hot then it will cavitate and lose pressure. If you do this enough it will ruin the pump seals. Get a cooking thermometer and check the temperature in the waterbox after it has run for a while; this will tell you if the water feeding your pump is too hot.

If you are only doing extraction, then it is a good idea to let a small amount of water run out of the machine constantly. You can make a little bleed hose with a shut-off valve so that you can adjust the amount of water coming out. This is especially important if you do not have a pump clutch and/or diverter valve.

**Rug Spa** · 11-01-2008, 06:49 PM

check the thermal relief vlave. The problem is the Thermal relief valve is under the machine. so I would order a thermal relief valve from TCS in Atlanta get a cat 130 TRV. install it on the return water line that goes to the back of the commet pump. then run it to the tank.

**Ara Klujian** · 11-01-2008, 07:09 PM

Try Descaling if you haven't done so in a while.

**Billy** · 11-01-2008, 08:57 PM

Originally Posted by NICK NELLOS

check the thermal relief vlave. The problem is the Thermal relief valve is under the machine. so I would order a thermal relief valve from TCS in Atlanta get a cat 130 TRV. install it on the return water line that goes to the back of the commet pump. then run it to the tank.

Nick on my SF 3.2 the valve was on the left side of the machine easily accessible.

**Rug Spa** · 11-01-2008, 10:56 PM

well my spitfire was a 93 model.

**tgratzer** · 11-02-2008, 10:37 AM

is that the hexagonal looking valve on the left side that has a sticker that says 180 degrees?

**Billy** · 11-02-2008, 01:11 PM

Yes it is. You just need the same valve I thought it said 180 I guess I was correct after all. Now you may find it in stock at a local distributor but it could be the wrong size threads if it is it will still work you would just need to use a adapter. Im telling you this because this happen to me.

If that valve isn't working correctly it would definitely cause uncontrolled heat spike which as I stated earlier is very bad for a SF 3.2.

If you look at those pics in the gallery I posted you will see how I added a Vac & temp gage which really helps in being able to catch issues before they become a problem.

Nick mine was a 1994 model

Good Luck

**Chris Sheldon** · 11-02-2008, 01:32 PM

Do not use the 180 degree valve unless your pump is equipped with hi-temp seals that can handle that much heat.

**Rug Spa** · 11-02-2008, 06:02 PM

you should use the 130 to 160 however most commet pumps can handle those temps, but I would only use it with caustion. Get a 130 or 140 I have a 130 here if you want it email me and I will overnight it too you. or PM me.

**Billy** · 11-02-2008, 11:30 PM

Did everyone notice he said the one he has now is the 180 degree valve or did I misunderstand his post? You do what you think is best Travis but I used a SF 3.2 from 1994 - 2007 with the 180 with no problems. I had the original Hypro twin piston pump, the newer Hypro Triplex pump was added in the first year as a warranty replacement & I replaced the Hypro with the Comet just a few months before selling our old van. The Comet required a major upgrade with parts though.

One more thing I may be wrong but from my experience with a SF 3.2 if you use a low temp valve you will bypass allot more water than normal since the heat isn't adjustable. The heat exchanger does a decent job for such a small machine.

Nick has allot more knowledge than me I just don't agree with him this time.

Good Luck either way

**Chris Sheldon** · 11-03-2008, 12:28 AM

Billy,

If your pump seals were equipped to handle 180+ degree water than I believe you when you say it worked fine. The point Nick and I are trying to make is that if Travis' pump is designed to handle a maximum of 140 degrees, then putting in a 180 degree valve is going to cause him problems because it will allow the pump to draw water that is too hot for it to handle.

If Travis does indeed have a 180 degree valve on his unit, this could be the cause of his problem....even if the valve is functioning properly.

Chris

**Billy** · 11-03-2008, 12:57 AM

Chris I agree with you I am just assuming he has a similar setup to my old one since mine was actually a 94/95 model & his was a 96. I guess there is a possibility someone changed it out at some point but I only changed mine once. This is why I added gages because without them just guessing. My unit had really good heat & it did have high heat seals even when I rebuilt the Hypro pump once.

You need as much advantage as you can get on heat with a SF 3.2.

What he has described though didn't sound like a pump issue it really sounds like his Thermo valve is failing which if it is & the unit has been working good until this failure why cripple the heat with a lower degree valve? I am assuming the one on it now is a 180 degree one though when saying this. I also installed a t on the outlet which aloud me to control high heat issues when valve failed. Another thing that happen was if the pump received to hot of water it actually lost all pressure untill the heat was lowered.

Again without the gages I installed I would have had more problems over the years.

To qualify this I am not a mechanic I just had allot of time with a SF 3.2

**Rug Spa** · 11-03-2008, 09:19 AM

My spitfire never got hot enough to make warm tea. I just used my prespray and cleaned , heat was nevery really a factor. just the fact I had a machine with highpressure and better vacuum helped me do a better job.

**Chris Sheldon** · 11-03-2008, 09:46 AM

So it didn't actually spit fire Nick? ha

Yeah Billy, its hard to diagnose machines on the internet, all we can do is help a guy the best we can with the info we have. Sounds like you knew your machine pretty thoroughly; and you sure ran that 3.2 for many years! That's awesome.

Chris

**Rug Spa** · 11-03-2008, 10:02 AM

Chris when you get a chance call me today 940-642-2503 please. nick

**moreforles** · 11-16-2008, 02:50 PM

Spit fire is fine for residential, lacks a little heat and vac for commercial, but with additional pre spray and or slower passes, it does fine.

I agree, if you steaming, temp pop off valve is most likely the problem (unless you accidentally hooked up hot water to unit - had helper do that before, ruined a garden hose and had my machine running hot and dumping water into recovery tank, steam shooting from my wand, when I sat it down for a minute, moving furniture or when cleaning stairs.... as far as temp, hotter is better, to a degree..... I even have an additional preheater for use in winter time, mounted in front of exhaust. to replace temp lose from garden hose on the ground or in snow (not that I work a lot during winter, but usually get out a couple days a week)

I've been using a spitfire 11 years, first one I bought used, it had been converted to 3 piston pump before I bought it, but unit was stolen (by another carpet cleaner, but couldn't prove it, so police wouldn't even look into it. employees of the other cleaner I suspected, just happen to stop in at the distributor and ask specifically how to hook up gas line for spitfire, when that cleaner didn't own a spitfire.... anyway.... I went into debt and bought a new one to replace it. that was eight years ago.

I really don't think I'ld want any other machine, but saying that, I will admit that there could have been much more done make it better machine.
for starter, hot water from pop off valve shouldn't be sent to waste tank (it a waste of hot water) mine is ran back to fresh water tank (chemicals shouldn't hurt the low pressure pump from tank to machine) at the very least it should go to a jug for use to mix prespray or solution. Second, a better pump, possibly cat pump would be nice, like old propane units had/have, third recovery/waste tank should have a 2" drain, not 1" and half, another thing that I would have done differently is the mix tank, even/especially on the new models, the tank is very close to the sight glass of the pump making it difficult to read/check, the tank should be located behind the pump, allowing better, it really didn't matter where it was, why pump it where it blocks your view. and lastly, the relay with all the wire going into it, thats not supposed to get wet.... on the back of the mix tank where wire can vibrate off and water splash from tank?... (most 3.2 units I've seen, are missing the cover, including mine, it disappears after a couple years... leaving water too splash when your driving to next job... I try to partially drain mine when I think of it, I've zip tied plastic bag over relay, but short of saving lengths of wires....it should have been mounted elsewhere.

My pump has been acting up lately as well, not holding pressure and running hot, I've replace the washers on the head, greased the pressure regulator and still not having much luck, I've been using the portable to keep jobs done, but one customer (a large account, had a bad experience with a previous cleaner and doesn't want the job done without my truckmount. so it looks like time to replace pump..... and fast...

the comet pump you used to replace the hypro, what model and what kind of modifications were needed.

is there another hypro pump, like the one on boxer or 421, that can be used on the 3.2 to upgrade it..... would occasionally like more pressure, not really a nessesity, but as long as I'm replacing, might as well try to improve it.... when engine goes, I might even replace it with 18 hp.....?

**Batista230** · 01-24-2009, 10:45 AM

On a spitfire there is only one heat exchange that heats the water up before it goes into the HP pump the pre heat exchange after this it goes into a hi temperature/chemical solenoid and then the mixer tank
I would say your solenoid is faulty

**moreforles** · 03-25-2010, 02:55 AM

and if you go that route and happen to have a fresh water tank, run it into the fresh water tank, no poing in waist water and chemicals.... and in winter time, the hot water in the fresh water tank, will help keep you van and machine warm.........