Vacuum, the prescrub with Bridgepoint hardwood cleaner like this
Then dry and apply 2 coats of Bridgepoint Floor finish
BEFORE
AFTER
Ask Scott Warrington to send you a video.
I have a customer scheduled for a large carpet and tile and grout cleaning but now they have called to see If I clean hardwoods too.
What is the process of doing a basic cleaning on hardwoods with no finish?
I browsed Interlink's site and found Bridgepoint Wood Cleaner http://www.interlinksupply.com/index...L+++++++++++++ for general cleanings of wood floors and I have a 13 inch rotary.
Is this a good product and what type of pad should I use? I'm thinking a buffing or micro-fiber pad.....
What is the average going rate?
Thanks in advance,
Jason
Last edited by Jason Whaley; 02-05-2010 at 08:46 AM.
Vacuum, the prescrub with Bridgepoint hardwood cleaner like this
Then dry and apply 2 coats of Bridgepoint Floor finish
BEFORE
AFTER
Ask Scott Warrington to send you a video.
They said they DO NOT need finish....... Cleaning only!
lamanatorplus.com I have been using for 3-4 years with good results
If they are laminate floors they usually don't need any finish and would give LaminatorPlus a shot.
If they are actual hardwood or engineered floors then you are more than likely gonna need at least one coat of finish. Bridgepoint has a really good system, but I really want to try out the Basic system. I have seen a few pics around and that stuff looks awesome! Good luck and make sure you "flip" whatever you do!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
BBBBBBBBBBBBOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOMMMMMMMMMMMM MMMMMMMMMM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (yup...I'm that guy)
If a light cleaning is all they need, you can use the Bridgepoint Wood Floor Cleaner along with a microfiber or cotton bonnet.
Sweep or vacuum floor to remove any dry particles soil that could scratch.
Spray a light mist of the Wood Cleaner or your pad and dampen you bonnet. It is like bonnet cleaning a carpet.
USe a second pad to rinse with clear water. Be sure to limit the amount of moisture used.
Dry with air movement.
Have the finish ready inc ase the floor does not have the desired gloss after you clean the soil and dead / oxidized finish off. But you do not always need the finish. Sometimes cleaning is enough.
If you clean with the red or maroon pad as shown in Richard's photos, you will remove enough finish that you should replace finish. With just a soft bonnet, you won;t always need to reapply finish.
Use something soft so you don't scratch whatever finish is there. Especially if you are not going to recoat.
Prices per sq. foot???? No coating... Cleaning ONLY!
I usually charge around .30-35 psf to clean only. I typically use Orecks hardwood cleaners with the small orbital buffer with a red pad or softer so it's not too agressive, then I buff it dry with a terry cloth under the pad and keep going over it untill it comes up clean. I like Laminator Plus for scrub and re-coats and I will use a Versa Pro weighted buffer and green pad to prep the floor prior to re-coat, I usuall get around $1.50 psf for scrub and re-coating w/ LP.
It doesn't, the Bridgepoint cleaner is good for maintenance but it will not strip off stuff like Orange Glow. The Laminator Plus cleaner can but you usually have to go over it a few times at least depending on how thick the buildup is, then after it is all removed it will need to be re-coated with their finish or something similar.
Just the Bridgepoint Wood cleaner plus a mop or bonnet will not cut through years of built up Orange Glo. If you use the rotary machine with the red and the white pad along with the Bridgepoint Wood Cleaner it will take care of the Orange Glo. Some have reported to me that it took two times to get rid of very heavy build-up. Personally I have only seen Orange Glo a few times and it came off with only 1 cleaning.
Well, I really had trouble with Orange Glow and similar products with the Bridgepoint system even when using it with the Versa Pro rotary machine, the cleaner just doesn't seem to have the chemistry to cut through it. As I recall even on the training DVD it says to test a floor for any kind of waxy or oily buildup by applying rubbing alcohol to a terry cloth and rubbing a section and seeing if any gummy residue transferred to the cloth and not to use the system if it did. It was really a pretty big frustration that I had with the system and I had suspended any kind of HW clean and re-finishing for almost 2 years until I tried LP.
Interesting. How often did you run into Orange Glo? I think i have only seen it a few times out of many hardwood floors. It seems some build-ups are worse than others.
LP does have multiple cleaning products. The strongest one concerned me that it was too aggressive. BUt maybe that is what it takes for very heavy Orange Glo.
BTW - The reason the Bridgepoint product says to check for waxy or oily build-up is notcleaning related, but the finish is water absed and repeled by wax. So it won't bond with the wood if wax is in the pores.
I used the Lamanator Plus system last summer on a rental house I own and I was impressed with the results. Very good customer service too.
Steve
www.StrategiesForSuccess.com
PS Congratulations on "upselling" the job. This concept of making a bit more on each job is more and more essential given the economy right now. An Oklahma carpet cleaner recently wrote my "Bleeding Hearts Club" advice column about how to get his employees to sell more on the job. Here is what I told him ....
http://www.strategiesforsuccess.com/...chs-to-up-sell
It seemed that most floors that I came accross had an oily or waxy residue and found that Orange Glow, Murpheys oil soap and another Johson product (cant remeber the name but it comes in a yellow can) was typically the culprit. So in order to use the finish all of that would have to be safely stripped off but for a while I didn't know how to go about that so I just usually referred them out to be re-sanded.
I do still end up turning down alot of HW jobs though because still in many cases the floor needs to be fully re-sanded if it is heavily worn down to bare wood in several areas. Sometimes I will repair isoalted damaged areas of bare wood by lightly sanding, staining and then putting a coat of spar urenthane down ahead of time (great one coat coverage), I had to do a few areas like that on one that I am doing next week.
This is going to be one hell of a payday.... 2,000 sq. of carpet, 32 stairs 1200 sq of hardwoods, 500 sq of tiled floors, oriental rugs and 4 large walk in showers large enough to hold 4 people in each...
Scheduled for 2 days in a row at the end of the month just in time for the mortgage, ridiculous gas bill and car payments.... LOL!
Thanks for the help guys.... It is much appreciated!
Last edited by Jason Whaley; 02-11-2010 at 03:05 PM.
I agree. The secret with any of these topical systems (short of re-sanding) is to properly pre-qualify the customer to know what to expect.
Steve
www.StrategiesForSuccess.com
PS With the ease of application of the Lamanator product you can do a small test area in a bad spot and the customer can quickly see the results and sign off on them.
However, a warning on any of these additional profit opportunities. Properly implemented you will be at the "Crossroads of Expansion" with some difficult decisions ahead on growth. One of my "Bleeding Hearts Club" readers from Phoenix was facing this exact problem last March. see if you agree with my answer ...
http://www.strategiesforsuccess.com/...s-of-expansion
I shot you a PM Jason about cleaning the HW. If you want, give me a call and I will help you any way I can.
Joe
Hey Jason,
It seems most of your questions were answered by Daron, Jeff and Steve T. about our LamanatorPlus system. Our Deep Scrub is not too harsh for any hard surface flooring as Bridgepoint tried to imply. It is safe with a white or red pad on any polyurethane or aluminum oxide coated/finished floor. Deep Scrub was designed to remove all the store-bought topical waxes that homeowners try to make their floors look shiny with and all dirt and grime! IT WON'T HARM ANY HARD SURFACE ORIGINAL FINISH!!!!
Also, our Restoration product, for those who do want a new finish, has one of the highest solid counts in the industry for sandless re-finishing systems.
LamanatorPlus is not for every single situation, but will work in many.
Steve T. is right to say that a small test area is usually a great idea for the custy and will show them what to expect prior to hiring the work done.
Good Luck to you if you decide to add-on the hard surface cleaning and sandless restoration service to your business.
I also have a powerpoint presentation that may help you and estimate and customer service forms that you may customize to your own business to help you get an easy start to quoting and earning these types of jobs.
Have an awesome day......
Keep On Cleanin.....
Bob Shepard
bob@lamanatorplus.com
I have used a steam mop and had a great experience. It is really suitable for wood floors. I clean my all floors area in tiny period, and they are really high-pitched clean. There are lots of stores where you can easily buy them.
Best Regards,
Steam mops are the worst thing you can use on hardwood floors. Water and wood do not mix. I have had to repair many areas of hardwood floors where the homeowner had used one to clean their hardwoods. If you clean the floors real quick, they do a decent job. Most homeowners, however, will use them to "scrub" spots and end up getting the wood wet and over time, it will do some damage.
Visit www.basiccoatings.com
They have a unique cleaning system. They specialize in cleaning wood floors, refinishing and re coating.
Mark Finstein
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